Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All,

Just got a r32 gtst and I suspect its been sitting around for a while in Japan. I'm In the process of doing a checkup and changing all the necessary things to get it back in A1 condition.

I have booked it for a service this weekend and just compiling a list of things I want done/checked, for peace of mind. I "have" changed the engine oil and filter and atm this is the current list of items i want the mech to work through this weekend:(Also I have done compression test and the results are fine).

Flush,bleed and replace coolant

Flush,bleed and replace brake fluid

Check other fluid levels & top up if required.

Check suspension

Check Drive axels

Hicas warning light

Check coil packs

Does anyone suggest any other things to add to the list? Current mods are (FMIC, BOV, Stock Turb,boost controller)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109951-first-service-in-a-while/
Share on other sites

Has the timing belt been replaced yet? Check the sticker on the front of your engine, it should say when if it has. If not I would probably do that as god knows how many K's a japanese car has really done..

Also while your there how about a new water pump? Itl save you LOTS of money later doing both at the same time.

Also i assume that your going to have basics such as oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs etc changed over aswell.

Yeah, I'm looking to get my first major service done:

NGK Iridium Spark Plugs

GATES Racing Timing Belt

New Oil Filter (RYCO Z145A)

MOTUL 4100 Turbolight Oil

PENRITE Gearbox Oil

PENRTIE LSD Oil

Coolant (not sure what type yet).

That should hopefully keep the old girl ticking...

I would suggest changing pretty much everything you can, since you don't know when it's last been done

So.

Oil + filter

Coolant

Gearbox Oil

Diff Oil

Air filter (check + replace if necessary)

Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump (if still has stock pump it's a good idea go walbro or bosch 040)

Plugs (check and replace if necessary)

Timing belt (if hasn't been done and > 100,000kms)

Belts (check and replace if necessary)

Brake Fluid (maybe)

Check

------

power steering fluid and clutch fluid

all boots and bushes for cracks / leaking (including shocks & driveshafts)

for oil leaks

brake pad thickness, brake rotor thickness, run out, cracks in rotors etc.

tyres and wheels (including wheel bearings)

headlights,brakelights, indicators etc.

fuel lines, vacuum lines for cracking/deterioration

radiator hoses as above

wheel alignment

fuel pressure

timing & idle

the list goes on....

I would suggest changing pretty much everything you can, since you don't know when it's last been done

So.

Oil + filter

Coolant

Gearbox Oil

Diff Oil

Air filter (check + replace if necessary)

Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump (if still has stock pump it's a good idea go walbro or bosch 040)

Plugs (check and replace if necessary)

Timing belt (if hasn't been done and > 100,000kms)

Belts (check and replace if necessary)

Brake Fluid (maybe)

Check

------

power steering fluid and clutch fluid

all boots and bushes for cracks / leaking (including shocks & driveshafts)

for oil leaks

brake pad thickness, brake rotor thickness, run out, cracks in rotors etc.

tyres and wheels (including wheel bearings)

headlights,brakelights, indicators etc.

fuel lines, vacuum lines for cracking/deterioration

radiator hoses as above

wheel alignment

fuel pressure

timing & idle

the list goes on....

pretty much what merlinthehappypig said, plus

- timing belt tensioner and idler (take them off and check if they dont turn smoothly, if not then replace)

- check oil pressure (dont trust the factory gauge!!)

- water pump and thermostat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
    • Mate, I take this thread in random directions on occasion myself, so no foul I'm a old fan of MCM anyway, I like their banter, and enjoy most of the stuff they do
    • Something strange is happening. I didn't touch the car since we last spoke on the forums. Yesterday was the first day of good weather, so i took it out for about 2 hours. It started up on first crank every time about 5 times total. I literally didn't do anything to do the car.  
    • I purchased this one. Very well priced and works great. I was rough with it to see if it will last and had no issues.  Teslong Two-Way Articulating Borescope with Light, Industrial Endoscope Inspection Camera with Articulated Probe, Flexible Mechanic Fiber Optic Snake Scope Cam for Wall Automotive Engine Inspect-5FT : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
×
×
  • Create New...