Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I just bought myself an 95 R33 GTS-T. and I was wondering how much power do these cars have stock (est),

I have bought and installed and ARC intercooler and Blitz Bov and Air inducts, I dont have any boost controllers or guages, how do I know how much boost its running and what is stock boost?

Sorry if Im asking any stupid questions, its my first Turbo car and Ive always owned V8's so I havn't had any dealings with Turbos.

Your help would be very much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109979-new-skyline-owner/
Share on other sites

Dead stock about 155rwkw.

You do have a boost gauge! Its in the instrument cluster (the +7/-7 gauge).

Stock boost is 5psi at low stage and 8psi at high stage.

See:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=42895

depends what dyno but I reckon more like 130-135rwkw. Remember 187 or 184 flywheel kw. Budget on 25-30% loss through drivetrain..

The stock comp is crap if you raise boost or add intercooler. Factor in Powerfc or at a minimum an AFM bender (SAFC) and you will get the gain from the mods..otherwise don't bother with any more than a couple of psi boost increase and exhaust. At 9-10psi you are at the border of rich and retard so may be dont even bother..

Edited by benl1981
depends what dyno but I reckon more like 130-135rwkw. Remember 187 or 184 flywheel kw. Budget on 25-30% loss through drivetrain..

The stock comp is crap if you raise boost or add intercooler. Factor in Powerfc or at a minimum an AFM bender (SAFC) and you will get the gain from the mods..otherwise don't bother with any more than a couple of psi boost increase and exhaust. At 9-10psi you are at the border of rich and retard so may be dont even bother..

I had one 3 years ago and it made 132rwkw with cat back exhaust.Otherwise stock.

Well 140rwkw is a 25% loss through drivetrain so I wouldn't expect any better than that.

All depends on the dyno but 135rwkw on a REALISTIC dyno is about the figure.

In a motor mag the astra turbo dynod at 100wkw when it has 147kw, sportivo about 88kw (flywheel 141kw).

I would expect you would lose around 50kw or more...

Edited by benl1981
Dead stock about 155rwkw.

You do have a boost gauge! Its in the instrument cluster (the +7/-7 gauge).

Stock boost is 5psi at low stage and 8psi at high stage.

See:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=42895

isn't 150rwkw more likely a stock series 2 figure? I reckon more like 135-140 stock.

Series 1 and 2 will have about the same rwkw. They both have same engine management and engines. Same turbo as well (some may have nylon compressor wheel for quicker spool but no difference in size)..only difference is the coils, series 2 have inbuilt ignitors.

All depends on condition of engine..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...