Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

siddr20 - thanks for the tip on sspi.com.au

Tommyk - Hey Tommy - would love to come to Jap with you - but thats not a option for me. Way to busy with work, and little one is just 10 months so dont really want to leave home at the moment. I'm confidenent a exellent example can be found through a third party - as long as I deal with professionals and get pictures and details before deciding.

MFC05 - Thanks for all your advice Jack - much appriciated. If I have any questions in the future ill shoot you a PM.

R34 VSpec - Thanks for the offer. Not what I'm exactly after but will keep it in mind.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread - it really has helped me.

I'm also keeping a eye on a couple local ones for sale (local = in Australia) on carsales as well. Local prices seem at the higher end especially when you consider most are 99 models. Something I noticed is that most of the 34 R's on carsales have been there for ages - so seems local examples are not selling. Buyers market?????????

Id have no problem buying a local example - for the right money.

Dan

Edited by IMACUL8
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how exciting, i think anyone at SAU would love to be on the hunt for a R34 GTR, and realistically be able to buy one! :D

if you do go down the importing road, the workshop that complianced my R34 (just GT-T but has approval for EVERY variant of R34) is the cheapest in Australia (located in Sydney). PM me if you'd like some more details :woot:

If you can, make sure the brakes have a good chunk left on them, bout $1500-$2000 to replace if not up to scratch come compliance time :D

good luck mate!

cheers,

daniel

i agree with SS8 there is no need to go to japan to buy the car. in fact it could be a big waste of time. each auction is only on once a week so at any particular auction house (assuming a 2 week stay) you only have 2 goes at it. if you get out bid, or on inspection the interesting cars are not worth buying then you have wasted a lot of time and money. also there are i think 56 major car auctions in japan with maybe 20 or so of them having acceptable levels of skylines going through. due to the different locations of these auction houses you are probably going to be able to attend 3 or 4 auctions only in 2 weeks in japan. unless you have a buyer who has a traders access to lots of different auction houses (unlikely) and is willing to spend 2 weeks on the road with you travelling from auction to auction. you are better off staying here. searching around 10 or 15 auctions a week. find a buyer in japan (or buyers) that you trust and can access a few auctions in there area, or have agreements with other buyers to buy out of their area. then buy when the right one comes along.

going over for a holiday and buying some parts etc on the other hand is a great idea, i just wouldnt try and cram buying a car into a 1 or 2 week period. it can take a few months to get an awesome car and an awesome price to converge.

btw as an example. USS Kyushu Gold has about 5000 cars each day. only around 50 or 60 of those are skylines and that includes every model from 1960s to now. last week there was a total of ZERO BNR34s there. that would be dissapointing if that was the day you went there.

USS Tokyo Chiba has even more cars that USSG, last week they had just 2 BNR34s both were 1999 models, only 1 vspec and both were Grade R which means neither would be worth bidding on. one had had a roof replaced...

USS f*kuoka tomorrow = Zero BNR34s

KCAA f*kuoka today had one only . but again a 1999 model. this one was nice though, grade 4.5 and is recorded as bidding finished at 3.2 million.

USS Kanagawa today = Zero BNR34s.

i'm sure you guys get the picture. it will be quite hard to hit an auction once and have a good car there, and win it at a reasonable price. it takes time and patience to win the nice cars at auction for a cheap price.

siddr20 - thanks for the tip on sspi.com.au

Tommyk - Hey Tommy - would love to come to Jap with you - but thats not a option for me. Way to busy with work, and little one is just 10 months so dont really want to leave home at the moment. I'm confidenent a exellent example can be found through a third party - as long as I deal with professionals and get pictures and details before deciding.

MFC05 - Thanks for all your advice Jack - much appriciated. If I have any questions in the future ill shoot you a PM.

R34 VSpec - Thanks for the offer. Not what I'm exactly after but will keep it in mind.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread - it really has helped me.

I'm also keeping a eye on a couple local ones for sale (local = in Australia) on carsales as well. Local prices seem at the higher end especially when you consider most are 99 models. Something I noticed is that most of the 34 R's on carsales have been there for ages - so seems local examples are not selling. Buyers market?????????

Id have no problem buying a local example - for the right money.

Dan

The only reason why the local ones are not selling cause its very expensive 80g + for a car is alot of money to spend on a car not many people have that kind of money to buy a car like R34 GTR

I think importing is the way to go much much cheaper it will save you at least 20 grand

Keep us update on the progress mate

KCAA f*kuoka today had one only . but again a 1999 model. this one was nice though, grade 4.5 and is recorded as bidding finished at 3.2 million.

Hey Baron

Any more details on this one?

1999 GTR must be affordable seeing as R34 GTT is around mid 20's mark.. Must be mid 40's for an R34 GTR. Look at at one 2 years newer, and the price seems to go up 50%..

You'd have to figure in the price drop going on the 2007 GTR as well... Japanese are faddy, R34 is an old car, it will be 6+ years old by then.

1999 GTR must be affordable seeing as R34 GTT is around mid 20's mark.. Must be mid 40's for an R34 GTR. Look at at one 2 years newer, and the price seems to go up 50%..

You'd have to figure in the price drop going on the 2007 GTR as well... Japanese are faddy, R34 is an old car, it will be 6+ years old by then.

Good 99 V-spec 34's still sell for 4mil jpy at auctions in Japan , I like to see you buy one here fro $45 k in any condition actualy .

98 Gtt's you can buy there from about 1 mil jpy .

1999 GTR must be affordable seeing as R34 GTT is around mid 20's mark.. Must be mid 40's for an R34 GTR. Look at at one 2 years newer, and the price seems to go up 50%..

You'd have to figure in the price drop going on the 2007 GTR as well... Japanese are faddy, R34 is an old car, it will be 6+ years old by then.

If you can get me a BNR34 GTR for Mid 40s (I don't care how many kays it's got) I'll have 2 please. 1 will get my old motor for weekend use, and the other will just get new turbos and I'll drive it every day.

PM me and we can do a deal.

Im budgeting about 4.2 /4.4 million yen just to purchase the car.

45k - not for anything in excelent condition - shitter perhaps.

Dan

You wont be buying a bnr34 in excelent condition for 4.2-4.4 mil fob anyway , you will buy a good average car for that with minimum corrosion. IF you want a car in excelent condition you will have to go for a v-spec II and 5-5.5 mil is the closer to the mark .

$45 k will not buy you any GTR in australia never mind a V-spec, if you happen to find one let me know.

This one

http://www.japaneseusedcars.com/auction/fr...tionNo=FUN17356

Probably would have sold around that price. Michael, would you really take two of those cars ? :P

That one ( full of rust at no extra cost ) was sold for 2.856 mil jpy, so say 3 million fob .Bring that here and comply it ( if it doesnt get rejected )and see how much it ends up costing you .

Say you get 82 jpy to $ ( 84 in todays trading )= $36,600 +$3660 import duty+$2000 transport+$4226 gst +say $3500 compliance+$1000 tyres +say $1000 brake pads =51,986 .

What about stock rims ? brokers fee? take off aftermarket parts, .( catback and pods ) what if you need rotors? Windscreen? Who knows what else in a car like this and you still have to register it !

As you can see you cant even get that for $45 k here and with a car like this its a huge risk it may get rejected .

If you can get a car like this here and comply it for $45 k i'll take one as well (spare car ) as long as its not rusted out, i dont care about the k's

Hey Baron

Any more details on this one?

i had a quick look at the auction sheet and the pics and it looked very nice. BUT, the data on auction sale prices is entered by hand, and does not indicate if the car sold at that price, or just the auction finished there (reserve not met). which is why all the cars on amayama for example all seem dirt cheap. i have seen nice cars go cheaply though, but dont count on it.

here's a more realistic one, up tomorrow at USS tokyo - Chiba, 2002 M Spec (black) starting price is 4.6 million. it has 4 small scratches, and 3 tiny dents. rated 4.5A. that would be a very nice car but you had better have a minimum of 5mil in your pocket just to win the auction.

there is also a 2002 Vspec II up at the same house tomorrow (black too) it's also a 4.5A and this one has just 2 small scratches on the front bumper. has an indicated 12000kms (which are questioned). it looks very nice and has a set of nice BBS rims. it's start is 4.5mil.

the 99s of course are miles cheaper with one up tomorrow grade 4.5B with a few marks around starting at 3.3mil.

I have a better one

Auction id TH02365 at Tohoku Japan. Sold for 3.65M yen. I dont have access to the auction sheet, but its a '99 white grade 4 with 61k bnr34. Looks like a vspec due to the front and rear diffusers. Centre caps missing on 34 wheels and has an exhaust.

which auction house? which day? anyway i'm not sure what you mean by 'a better one'? it seems cheap but like i said the 99s are miles cheaper than the later models. plus just because it says grade 4 doesnt make it a good car. they all need to be expected in person. exception being a grade 5, but even then you'd want to have someone have a quick look over it.

Richard I understand completely.

But you making reference to a 34 series 2 M spec or series 2 vspec doesnt help, particularly when we all know they will fetch 5M or more.

Its USS Tohoku Wednesday auction (today). Of course they all need to be inspected in person. You get some duds, then you get some cheaper ones that have 'other' problems. You get what you pay for

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...