Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, looking at buying an r33 vspec and wondering if this price is good as i havent had much to do with gtrs

Midnight purple

Gold 17X9.5 volk rims

3 inch exhaust

immaculate throughout

58000k on the clock

$39990 drive out the door

Any thoughts??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110013-r33-gtr-v-spec-price/
Share on other sites

I love this about 33 gtrs. They're so cheap its forcing the price of 32 gtrs down. Which makes sense cos who wants to pay over $20,000 for a 16-year old thrashed out racer?

I reckon $35,000 tops for a 33 GTR. $40,000 if its in showroom condition with all records and paperwork. People asking over $45,000 are just putting them up for sale because their wives told them to. They're not serious about selling.

Johnny,

I guess thats the grey area redefined with second hand import skylines.

Its worth what you can sell it for. My 33 gtst has same mods i bought it with 12 months ago with the exception of a 2k stereo and a front mount and i am fairly confident i would get what i payed for it if not a couple of grand more.

Its not the model and price man, its the price and condition.

I saw a 33 gtr the other day that looked like it came straight of the production line and would fetch more than a shithouse 34 gtr thats been flogged to f**k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...