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Well after a shocking performance at the d-day and reasons being the boost controller i am out looking for a new one.

currently running turbo smart with hi lo boost setting just wondering wat is recomended it certainly dosent need in car controll ability just somthing that will allow the boost to about 12 13 psi. any help would be great thanx.

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Dunno..Inasnt has the same and got 185rwkw on the Melb dyno day..

Mine there seemed to be little difference between my ProfecB (183rwkw) and my old Turbosmart (177rwkw), but there may have been other factors going on. It was a different dyno too.

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I am going for the EL Cheapo Turbo XS one.

Aparently it is about $135 and is the best of the Bleed type ones with very little spikes.

Everyone that I have spoken to that has had a turbo smart one and the turbo xs one say that it is a total different experience with the turbo xs valve...

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Hi guys, we use this system a lot;

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html

I have found mounting them inside the cold air box eliminates any temperature sensitivity. Costs less than $100, works great, particularly for adjusting the wastegate opening for boost rise.

Hope that helps.

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could some just give me a run down on what exactly spiking is?

i found that when i disconnect the boost controller it opens to about 15psi but if im at full throttel it coughs and splurts like its starved of fuel where as when i ease the throttle on it holds the boost but its not full boosting then?

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Guest Malleus

Spiking is when your boost controller is too weak and can't hold the boost down. When that happens basically every ounce of boost from the turbo blows straight into the engine. The engine management system goes nuts when this happens and protects the engine by cutting fuel. It feels like someone has suddenly stomped on the brakes and doesn't sound very healthy either.

You can get fuel cut defenders which trick your computer into thinking everything is alright, but if your boost is spiking, everything is not alright. Don't risk it unless you know exactly what you are doing.

Single stage bleed valves are crap, don't touch them. Dual stage bleed valves are also crap compared to an electronic boost control, but for mild boost increases they're ok. A good one shouldn't spike if you're running around 10psi. I'm running a dual stage bleed valve and it hasn't spiked on me yet.

M

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i just find it amazing how by the flick of a switch and the opening and blocking of a few lines, we can determine how much power the car is making.

also wat does everything of the turbo smart stage 2 boost controller, with the in cabing switch and all. they are the $300 bran new ones. which go for $200 or less second hand. worth it?

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  • 2 months later...

Hi SydneyKid,

Just a quick question, the Audi boost controller you suggested that is good, would it also be good to fit to a R33 GTS-T series II as I would like to fit one to my vehicle but not sure what type of bleed valve would best suit!

I'm really getting confused hearing about all the different types of bleed valves that are out there on the market, some that have waste gate creep some that don't? I know that most people would suggest a EBC but they get very pricey. I suppose you pay for what you get hey?

Will a turbosmart one be o.k and there's also another one which is made by DNA Motorsport you may want to look at, check this site out.

http://www.dnamotorsport.com/Products/products1.html

I know this may have been asked so many times but what supposed to be a very good type of bleed valve out there which you don't get much spiking from? I better cut this short and not bore the hell out of you guys but one more quick question, will I really need to fit an aftermarket boost guage if I decide to fit a bleed valve or can I use the standard one without damaging it?

Thank's for all your help guys!

Regards,

Gianni

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