Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just wondering does anyone have a set of those d2 coilovers from just jap in their car? Anyone got any thoughts on them. obviously for the price they will not be the best coil overs around but im just curious are the spring rates etc ok for street, Without having to install new kidney's i mean...... :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110077-justjap-d2-coilovers/
Share on other sites

Have you seen their new G4 coilovers for $1399? Similar to D2 with different rate springs available.

Check the business traders section

Thanks blitz will have to check em out.

Hey scary32 you in sydney????? going to any of the track days or cruises soon? It would be cool to check a set out on a car before i bought anything. Dont have the dollars yet anyway but always researching the next mod!!!! :(

I've got a set in my Silvia and they are so much better than stock suspension. Car sits nice and flat through the corners and feels sharper. For me it was a good choice.

The D2s come in different sprin rates and different oil/gas and valving setups for Street, Track, Drift and Rally... I went with the streets and went 2kg lighter than the "standard" because NQ roads are not the best in some places... You would probably go harder springs and the correct type if you were going to use them for drift/circuit or rally (probably not in an skylines...).

Have a chat to your provider and they will get you the right stuff. Or have a look at the D2 website for all the details so you know what is available and what they say is standard for your car.

Cheers

Adrian

PS. Mine took about 500km to run in nicely. Before that they felt very hard and bouncy. Afterwards they were/are great.

Edited by Adrian Knack

Are D2 a well established brand?

They sponsor the CLK-GTR LM race car:

Mercedes%20CLK-GTR.jpg

From this sponsorship I always thought they were some high end Euro brand but these cheap coilovers seem to belie this theory.

coilovers eliminate some body body roll, camber/damper/highett, none of which kingsprings on a stock strut can do.

when i got some it got rid of alomost %50 of body roll. but if you arent going to the track or anything like that i dont see the point why you need them other than to say "hey look i have coilovers"

Thanks for the feedback guys... I will mainly be using them for street with a couple of track days a year thrown in for good measure. Anyone checked out the g4s?????? They look ok to but but would be cool if anyone has any in a car!!!!

Are D2 a well established brand?

They sponsor the CLK-GTR LM race car:

Mercedes%20CLK-GTR.jpg

From this sponsorship I always thought they were some high end Euro brand but these cheap coilovers seem to belie this theory.

3 things:

1. that photo is around 10 years old.

2. it's not the same D2.

3. from memory D2 Privat is a german phone company... i think.

:)

Some clarification;

1 Body roll should be controlled with the anti roll (stabiliser) bars, springs are there to hold the car up and absorb bumps. If you have a spring rate high enough to limit the roll substantially, it will be too high to absorb the bumps.

2. On a double wishbone car (like R32/33/34 Skylines) camber is adjusted via the control arms, not the shock/spring unit.

3. You can buy the Kings/Whiteline etc springs in the correct height

4. The Bilstein shocks in the Group Buy come with additional circlip grooves so that you can further fine tune the height.

5. R32/33/34 Skylines come with coil overs standard (the coil spring is located around the shock absorber, hence coil over)

Check out the Group Buy thread for more details, and some feedback from the 50 or so guys that have bought kits.

:happy: cheers :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...