Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pplz i brought a power fc off a memeber on here just finished rebuilding my motor went to start it today and the power fc wont start the car when i turn it on and the fuel pump wont stop running and all the lights on the dash flicker

so i grabbed a standard ecu and it starts can somone out there help me asap as im in need of this car so i can go away

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110114-power-fc-wont-start-the-car/
Share on other sites

yes series 1 and series rb25 use the same model powerfc.

the only suggestion i can offer is to

check the powerfc is connected properly (loom plug is in OK)

no bare wires on the loom are shorted out

no wires loose or not connected properly

the powerfc doesnt have a burnt smell to it

does the hand controller come up and run ok if you just turn to ON and don't start the car? like can u actually use the hand controller like this?

umm no boost kit that i know about but how do i turn it off also no burnt smell the screen flashes with the sound of the clicking of the car its lights up i might try the power fc on a mates car

how do i turn the boost kit off i dont think i have one ???

try it witha jumper battery connected, noticed mine turns off and will not start the car without heaps of power..

plus it always turns on the dash lights then switches them off, clicks then they come on and car starts..

i cant get into the menu the screen flashes on the hand controller the relay in the back on the car in the boot next to all the fuses clicks as well while trying to start

i pmd the guy who sold it to me no reply yet

it was brand new im just hoping i can fix it the car has being off the road for 5 months now icthing to get it going

if i put up the numbers of the ecu can someone tell me wat model it is for ??????????

on the side of the ecu it should have the the model number

your looking for ECR33 or RB25 something something which should confirm the model number. its on a white sticker

when mine was fried the screen would go crazy and make constant ticking noises and never boot up

well the way i figue it can be the relay cause the stock ecu starts it no props im goin to try the power fc on my mates car today and ill post some numbers up if i cant get any futher with it

johnny cash : slept like a log just finshed work at doms

hey, mine did the exact same thing when we had the AFM wired up wrong. All the dash lights flicker on and off, the fuel pump goes flat out, and then eventually the fuse blows and the dash stops flickering.

Scared the shit out of us. No damage to the powerfc, just a blown fuse.

If its not the AFM, it will be something else shorting the f**ker out.

Good luck mate, and be careful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...