Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, my gtr has been sitting around for a while without being started, and i tried to start it today - no suprise, a flat battery

So i get the jumper leads from the other car and hook them up, the voltmeter shows almost half way, i turn it over and the starter motor is working, but the engine wont fire up

What would that be?

The manifold pressure keeps rising as it tries to start ive noticed.

I cant roll start it - so that is out of the question

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110357-rb26-turns-over-but-wont-fire/
Share on other sites

  N1GTR said:
Guys, my gtr has been sitting around for a while without being started, and i tried to start it today - no suprise, a flat battery

So i get the jumper leads from the other car and hook them up, the voltmeter shows almost half way, i turn it over and the starter motor is working, but the engine wont fire up

What would that be?

The manifold pressure keeps rising as it tries to start ive noticed.

I cant roll start it - so that is out of the question

Thanks in advance

Not enough voltage/current?

Turning over slow?

Try a better jumper battery, larger jumper leads or charge the battery overnight.

:P cheers :D

PS, you're a naughty boy, you should drive your GTR everyday.

It turns over at normal speed to start, then gets slower until theres nothing

Ive tried letting it charge for a while, but nothing

I also noticed the tacho goes spastic when the starter motor is trying to start the car

How would i charge it overnight?

  N1GTR said:
It turns over at normal speed to start, then gets slower until theres nothing

Ive tried letting it charge for a while, but nothing

I also noticed the tacho goes spastic when the starter motor is trying to start the car

How would i charge it overnight?

Your also trying to push power from the jumper battery through the dead cells of the other battery. Overnight charging will be needed, also the cranking will be filling cylinders with fuel....not good for the plugs.

i had my car off the road for 4 months while respraying... then it never idled again after that ..

ECU shat itself somehow, didn't work til i changed to pfc..

battery for sealed 550CCA should be around $140

Steve, my car went flat while I was in Japan and there wasnt enough current left to jump it, or to register a charge using the trickle charger.

I got around it by connecting jumper leads at the back, connecting them to another car to get charge going in, then connected a charger to the terminals in the engine bay, which then registered charge.

Left it for 24 hours and hey presto :)

That said, it sounds like there might be another reason for your car failing to start :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 馃檪 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
  • Create New...