Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

INSU first i'd like to start by saying TOP write up. Everybody has said clean the AAC and i know my way around a car but really didn’t know were this was actually located. The pics really help.

My car had really rush idling would pulse, also when i had the A/C on and would put the clutch in at the light would 99% of the time go to stall.

I thought it was my coil packs or even spark plugs, also their was like a flat spot when I would excel. I didn't realize by cleaning the AAC that all these problems would go away. You cold not wipe the smile of my face from the result :thumbsup: . I didn't even need to adjust the idle was perfect after cleaning. My car feels like it runs much better. Took me around 2 hours, i really mad sure it was clean.

I WOULD RECOMMENT THIS TO EVERY SKYLINE DRIVER.

DO IT!!!! You will not be disappointed.

So I take it the basics of this work for the RB20 as well?

Also if I cant get a gasket, is there anything else I could use? Nutragrain box cut out or something simple like that?

You should be able to purchase a blank gasket sheet from pretty much any car shop, and trace out the gasket you need from the AAC assembly face, or trace off the old one.

I've heard of people using cardboard as gaskets.... but why bother, when the real deal is so cheap?

You should be able to purchase a blank gasket sheet from pretty much any car shop, and trace out the gasket you need from the AAC assembly face, or trace off the old one.

I've heard of people using cardboard as gaskets.... but why bother, when the real deal is so cheap?

Because they do what my mate did, take it all off on his only car, then realise he needs some stuff... Including gasket paper. So cardboard it was to get him down the shop!

Thanks tho.

Have used cardboard (manilla folder type) for many gaskets... Only ever used it with proper gasket goo, like you're meant to with cardboard type gaskets anyway... But never had any trouble.

Back O/T, this made a wonderful difference to my car - having access to an ultrasonic cleaner definately makes it easier!

  • 3 weeks later...

Well I did it today. Was a little better, but then mine didnt look all that dirty.

RB20 its basically the same, just one extra bolt, only need to take one hose off, I didnt need to take any others off. Had I not stuffed about and had lunch inbetween I reckon you could do it in about 30mins. I found the cotton buds helped take a bit of the gunk off. It dryed out pretty quick in the sun. Hey its carby cleaner it just drys quick!

This really did help tho, its easy enough but its good peace of mind.

so... THANKS!

I'll be doing mine in a couple days too. I've been suspecting I've got a vacuum leak, but I'm going to be doing this first as I think it may need it.

If I'm lucky this may be all my problem is.

Just curious, when we take the screw out does the whole spring just pop out??

Got any pics of when you taken the screw off??

Btw awesome write up and very detailed, which is what i like when reading..

nah the screw just comes out, everything else stays intact.

Just curious, when we take the screw out does the whole spring just pop out??

Got any pics of when you taken the screw off??

Btw awesome write up and very detailed, which is what i like when reading..

  • 3 weeks later...

Ive found something really odd when I went to set my idle valve this morning. Looking at my ecu, there doesnt seem to be any idle adjustment valves or is there any blinker to give you signals when you do a diagnostic.I took of the plastic cover that protects the holes and there is nothing behind it. I have a series 2 r33 but that shouldnt make a difference. What the FUDGE!?

post-1473-1151455604.jpg

Hi all

Been reading all the posts on the forum and they are top notch! we hardly get any 'instructions' as such on the uk forums...

Anyhow, wondering if anyone has any ideas... followed this post after for setting up, but have a 32 gtr with high idle... Litterely have just resealed the inlet and plenum etc gaskets and renewed all the larger vac hoses under the plenum, new clamps etc... and well, done the setup procedure with modifications for the 32 (disconnect aac rather than tps) and she still doing the same, and to get the idle to around 1200rpm the aac is fully wound in. I know my aac and air regulating valves working (Can adjust and see working on laptop) but still can not get the idle down. Any ideas / common thoughts on the gtr ? Have looked over for vacuum leaks but cant see any, sits at around -500 on boost gauge (-5 on std centre gauge)

cheers all :dry:

In the bottom left hand corner of the pic you have there, if you look closely, you'll see there is a screw inside. That is the adjustment.

It looks like you still have the plastic over that side of the ECU, which is there to protect the controls, you should be able to peel it back to gain access to the screw.

Guys after talking to a few people, most say that the idle adjustment on the computer is hardly ever nessecary, and is only for tiny adjustments. If everything is working fine, the adjustment on the AAC screw should be fine.

aac.bmp

Hi all

Been reading all the posts on the forum and they are top notch! we hardly get any 'instructions' as such on the uk forums...

Anyhow, wondering if anyone has any ideas... followed this post after for setting up, but have a 32 gtr with high idle... Litterely have just resealed the inlet and plenum etc gaskets and renewed all the larger vac hoses under the plenum, new clamps etc... and well, done the setup procedure with modifications for the 32 (disconnect aac rather than tps) and she still doing the same, and to get the idle to around 1200rpm the aac is fully wound in. I know my aac and air regulating valves working (Can adjust and see working on laptop) but still can not get the idle down. Any ideas / common thoughts on the gtr ? Have looked over for vacuum leaks but cant see any, sits at around -500 on boost gauge (-5 on std centre gauge)

cheers all :D

Hey man, I'm really not sure, I'm also not 100% sure if this is the method for setting the idle on the R32 GTR, (As far as I know just the Gts-t).

You might want to post your problem somewhere else in the site, like general mat, you should get some more helpful responses!

followed this tutorial and got my AAC valve off without too much hassle and it were proper coked up!! Getting the pipe off the bottom is a bit of chew on but take the big one off first near the purple n brown plugs and it aint too difficult. Lost my blue O-ring as well for about 20minutes but found it in the end hehehe!

its made a real difference to the idling of the car and I only had to make a small idle adjustment to the idle screw on the AAC to get it back to 600-700rpm idling point. The car also seems a touch smoother when dawdling along at 5-10mph in slow traffic so thats made life alot easier hehe!

thanks for the very tidy and neat tutorial insu :D if you've any more tutorials you can point to on this site regarding maintenance of yer gtst point me to em :D

great write up! just took mine off and cleaned it out, haven't started the car yet as im waiting 2 replace the fuel pump this afternoon, but i can imagine its goin 2 fix my idle problems! thanx alot for this.

When I took mine off for the clean I took the idle adjust screw all the way out. Around it was a rubber sleeve. Now whenever I try to screw it back in the sleeve just rolls up the screw and I'm concerend that air may leak in through any gaps.

Anyone got any suggestions on how to get this rubber to seat on the screw inside the thread again??

Also the sticker under my bonnet says I should be setting the idle to 650rpm. Does anyone really run their car this low?

Edited by space_monkey

can you not just carefully screw it in and use a very small screwdriver to help persuade the idle screw rubber sheath back in? Mine went in without any hassles but I did have to play carefully with the rubber sheath when putting it back in :/

mine is idling between 650 and 700rpm but I heard the 33gtst's are meant to idle as low as 600rpm - I think ppl increase the idle point a little simply because its so low it doesn't take much dipping below that point for the car to stall.

Thanks Anthony. I'll give that a go after I pick up some small screwdrivers.

I can't seem to get my car to idle below 750rpm no matter how far in I turn the idle adjust screw. When I try to set the base timing to 15 deg by disabling the variable timing that the computer is running, the revs jump up to around 850-900rpm. I set it to 15 deg and then re-enable the variable timing. Straight away the revs drop to 750rpm and the timing drops to 0 deg. Almost like it's trying to get to 650rpm by retarding the timing when idling. It's a pain and I can't get my head around it. :/

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
    • Paint is only structural when applied to the outside of Chinese and Indian cars. Otherwise it should never be present between mechanical joints that were intended to be metal to metal. Pain slips, slides, cracks, compresses, and add thickness that wasn't intended to be there. It comes firmly under the category of "just no".
    • appreciated it thanks   There are threads on the adaptor. I rear re anodising but didn’t know it will reduce strength   re mating services needing to be flat/ not painted, why would that be? I am devastated as car been off for a year, fixed power steering then installed bm57 master cylinder and just before driving it this came up. So annoyed   worried and afraid to drive it, no fun caliper coming off    
×
×
  • Create New...