Jump to content
SAU Community

Diy Aac Valve Cleaning & Idle Reset.

insu

By insu,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 260
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

insu
insu

Updated: 18/05/06 Disclaimer: This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia

space_monkey
space_monkey

Thanks Anthony. I'll give that a go after I pick up some small screwdrivers. I can't seem to get my car to idle below 750rpm no matter how far in I turn the idle adjust screw. When I try to set the b

Posted Images

LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
Posted

hmm, well id be re-checking all the hoses, making sure theres no air leak around the gasket join. making sure the electric plugs are on all the way. did you reuse the old gasket? and did you need to adjust the idle screw?

gumflapper Grand Master

gumflapper

Posted
Posted

electrical plugs are good. hoses are good. bolts are tight. i did not adjust the idle screw. i used the old gasket as it did not come off when i took the acc valve off. havnt checked for air leaks around the gasket. i have to go out in about an hour so ill check it all again before i leave.

thanks for the ideas.

adam

LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
Posted

ok, if i were you, i would go and buy some gasket goo/kit for $15 odd from supercheap, or whatever's near you. smear some on both sides of the gasket and put back together. i mean its a 15 year old gasket, and when taking it apart can lose the cushiness, if you know what i mean lol.

if you end up doing this, it'll probably say on the instructions, but after you've smeared it on either sides of the gasket, do up the 3 bolts finger tight till it squirts out the edges and let it set for 40-60 mins, then tighten them up but not hulk tight.

i ended up doing away with the old gasket and used the gasket goo, so it does the job as good as the nissan gasket. (one day someone will discover an AAC valve gasket stuck somewhere under the air intake plenum) :domokun:

gumflapper Grand Master

gumflapper

Posted
Posted

yeh thanks. i decided to clean it out as i was changing the spark plugs so i thought id do both at the same time and at the time i didnt have any gasket goo... i could walk to autobarn so getting it tmrw arvo will be no problem. weird thing is tho it seems to do it worse after i give the car some grief...

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Gareth Collaborator

Gareth

Posted
Posted

Most awesome write up! finished this off a short time ago, idle was much smoother (as well as being set to a better level as it was a tad low) still seems do drop quite low under braking when clutch is pushed in, certainly not struggling like it used to although maybe thats just the higher idle helping.

thanks for the effort in writing the tutorial.

:down:

fib Community Regular

fib

Posted
Posted

I finally got around to (partially) cleaning the AAC valve on the rb26 :P

Mid-way under the plenum it sits sideways with 4 bolts, 2 hoses connected and a brown plug. After I removed the bolts I removed the AAC only to see a brand spanking new looking gasket in one piece. However inside the aac it was dirty, caked in black soot. The freaking hoses had hose clamps facing the engine so there was no way that I could remove them without removing the plenum... anyway I just sprayed MAF cleaner into the spring and the black juices came running out another hole. I can say that it's only half clean lol

First few key turns the car would not start I was freaking out maybe because I didn't wait for the MAF cleaner to dry haha, but then it worked perfectly :rofl:

No more throttle required on startup.

Also adjusted the idle screw from 1100rpm down to a more respectable 1000rpm which I am happy with at the moment, might go lower but I was afraid of stalling in traffic like others haha

  • 1 month later...
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

RB25DET Neos have cold start valve and AAC valve as part of the same assembly - I just posted this in another thread, perhaps it helps someone else:

Here's a summary of the main differences between an RB25DET Neo and the original tutorial for series 1:

  • There are 4 bolts instead of 3 (doh :))
  • Wrap a towel around and under the three coolant hoses before loosening the hose clamps and pulling out the hoses. There's enough coolant coming out to soak half a tea towel. The coolant may be pressurised so wear eye protection.
  • As per the original tutorial I found it easier to disconnect the intake hose going to the base of the AAC at the other side of the head first, at the second hose clamp from where it branches off the main intake pipe.
  • My AAC assembly didn't have an O-ring between the assembly and the solenoid (step 9).
  • Take note of idle screw position before/whilst taking it out (number of rotations) unless you want to reset idle afterwards.
  • After putting everything back together remember to bleed the coolant system by loosening the bleed screw on top of the AAC assembly with the engine running until you get a couple of drops of coolant coming out.

  • 3 months later...
Slater130 Newbie

Slater130

Posted
Posted

Been searching the web for weeks, heard from many other owners that this was a common problem, but no fix ideas. Finally saw this post and tried it. Worked like a charm. After I cleaned out the AAC Valve, I didn't have to touch either idle screws. The car seems to be running great since. (besides the random RPM gauge that I'm still troubleshooting). Thanks for the post! And the pictures showed up great!

EDGAR Newbie

EDGAR

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone i'm new here, i just got a s13 with S2 RB25DET stock swap, the car was working fine, but i've been having issues with the aac valve or idle valve ( i guess), so wha i did, i follow all the steps from this tutorial and also i changed the fuel filter, park plugs, and i cleaned the MAF sensor. The only step that i couln't do is reset the idle from the ECU, 'cause i never saw the screw.

When i turn on the engine, it goes to 2k rpm , and 1 minute later starts stalling and shuts off , then when i try to turn it back on doesn't start....

I hope you guys helpme out, 'cause im very worried, I don't know what the problem really is,.......thanks guys.

-S2 RB25DET

-GREDDY PROFEC BOOST CONTROLLER

-FMIC

  • 3 months later...
Julzillionaire Contributor

Julzillionaire

Posted
Posted (edited)

PICTURES ON PAGE 9

Thanks for the write up!! Unfortunately I only read the first page and did the whole thing by opening up separate pics :) ah well

I did this DIY tonight and bought the gasket just in case. Didn't end up needing it but ah well.

Idling is a lot better!! not perfect but just as good as when I first got it some 6 years ago.

My troubles which is always the same when I work on cars is hoses! and anything to do with getting my hands in tight places or tools in tight places.

I also did as much as I can off this DIY

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry3204938

Edited by Julzillionaire

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tylink720
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By tylink720 · Posted

      Wish I had this advice when I did my pump. It went in and out 3 or 4 times, and on the last time it snapped.
    • Butters
      CAM COVER BILLET HALF MOON RB RUBBER REPLACEMENTS

      By Butters · Posted

      Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too.  Genuine and not looked back.    As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them. 
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Technically still manual process to set it first time though
    • Milkmun
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Shit job but not hard. I'd use a piece of wood to knock the plastic lid open to avoid damaging it, use a vacuum to clean up the fuel sender lid also so crap doesn't fall in. I'd probably do pump and filter at the same time since you're already in there, I reused my OEM sock after a quick clean since the one provided wasn't long enough. Could also hardwire your pump if you feel inclined.
    • Kinkstaah
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.
×
×
  • Create New...