Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

can get hold of a standard turbo, is it possible to bolt straight on or would i need to take to turbo place to get fitted? looking for cheapest way out right now as getting bigger turbo would cost me heaps to repair everything else

@ richmond u have Steve from Manta Racing (Manta Automotive Services)

hes a top bloke and wont steer you wrong and he knows his stuff when it comes to GTR's and skylines

he replaced my whole front diff without taking the engine out and keeping the cost to a minimum and he warranties his work (labour) for 12months

can get hold of a standard turbo, is it possible to bolt straight on or would i need to take to turbo place to get fitted? looking for cheapest way out right now as getting bigger turbo would cost me heaps to repair everything else

I'd suggest taking it to Bill Keen at ATS on Marion Rd to get Hi Flowed, May as well while it's off the car........and you will get more power than just leaving it standard and won't have to spend 1-2.5k on a aftermaket turbo as soon or if at all. He will prob be able to fit it for you also.......Otherwise as always take it to Shaun(Boostworx) :D

Darren

Darren i was impreswsed with Boostworx, they haven't sorted out the problem with the pinging yet but are getting some more stuff (ecu ect.) to try. They checked all the timing, mixtures and the standard ecu and it didn't come up with anything. Turns out my "standard" skyline has a few after market bits like the oxyen sensor which may be causing the problems.

Starting to think i might sell this 33 and save up for a GTR

^^^^^^ Yeh sweet Nick nice work, Shaun and the boys have work on a few cars of my mates now(white Evo3, pink Rx7 ATM and heaps of people's on here) and i i hear is good stuff from him!

GTR hey, You could hook up with Shan(funkymonkey) on here who is J Spec, I spoke to him about 33 GTR's when he was here and was rolling off some very good prices for them, maybe keep that in mind!

yeah i saw the pink RX7 and the EVO in there. It's alos good for me being just around the corner from work, had to get a manager to drop me off to pic it up this arvo.

I just hope they can sort out the problems with the timing as it is really annoying me especially now i have to miss out on another cruise

yeah i saw the pink RX7 and the EVO in there. It's alos good for me being just around the corner from work, had to get a manager to drop me off to pic it up this arvo.

I just hope they can sort out the problems with the timing as it is really annoying me especially now i have to miss out on another cruise

Ummm, maybe a SITC might help? Have a look into it..... SK's thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=80642&hl=SITC

I dont really know, but I use a Apexi Super-ITC, ie an Ignition Timing Converter. Mainly 'cause I run auto, but also it links well with the SAFCII, both being Apex etc. ~$220 USD on ebay, generally $300aus delivered, 2nd hand........ I managed to snare a new one there for $20 less, but around $300 is the go.

Can adjust a fair bit of timing into 5 rpm spots, not saying it will help your particular timing issue but definately an excellent tuning tool (with my sitc/safc/ebc & mods I expect ~210Awkw with a 500hp turbo)

Edited by Tangles

oh u made a comment in the thread i posted when i needed my diff done i thought u had urs done once too

if u get a 200+ AWK combo happening i suggest u look into GTR crown and pinion gears otherwise ull do wot i did and strip ur gears

Edited by Madaz

i dont know this is wot ive been told by a very good mechanic that the R33 GTS-4 DIDNT come with turbo and had a ratio of 3.4 and has too much power and torque for the drive ratio :S

R32 GTS-4 (RB20DET) came with 3.6 and all GTR's came 4.11

Ive always had the impression the R32 GTS4's have always had the 4.363:1 diff ratio.

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...goto=nextnewest

There's a little thread also.

I'd hate to drive the RB20DET GTS4 if it really did have a 3.6:1. :nyaanyaa:

  • 5 weeks later...

not happy with boostworx now. rang them this week to fid out what was going on with my car. They started out reassuring me that it was a detonation problem, then they were trying to tell me I had a series 2, when i have a series 1.

Had one of the mechanics at work who had a 33 GTST and he said either the turbo or exhaust manifold (which is also what cubes suggested) had a look today and the one of exhaust manifold studs has broken off (can't tell if any of the other ones are).

Any know where I can get this fixed and roughly how much it would cost?

I was thinking about going to Adelaide turbo services on marion road this week and getting a quote from them

Edited by Whiplash
not happy with boostworx now. rang them this week to fid out what was going on with my car. They started out reassuring me that it was a detonation problem, then they were trying to tell me I had a series 2, when i have a series 1.

Had one of the mechanics at work who had a 33 GTST and he said either the turbo or exhaust manifold (which is also what cubes suggested) had a look today and the one of exhaust manifold studs has broken off (can't tell if any of the other ones are).

Any know where I can get this fixed and roughly how much it would cost?

I was thinking about going to Adelaide turbo services on marion road this week and getting a quote from them

Out of curiosity.. Which stud went? I've seen a few rb's where the cyl one and two studs go before the rest.

Was it shaun u spoke to at Boostworx or the new bloke I saw there a week or so ago?

I've been talking to shaun the entire time i have been dealing with them. Was disapointed with it as I was happy when I got my car serviced there, after all the good stuff I've heard about them in this thread

the one closest to the firewall. The other end was loose but we didn't want to tighten it up incase it broke off aswell

The mechanic that helped me this morning said he would take it to work and it would take a few days to repair and will cost a bit as the manifold usually need machining to make it flush again if the studs have been broken for a while, which looks like the case here.

Ive always had the impression the R32 GTS4's have always had the 4.363:1 diff ratio.

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...goto=nextnewest

There's a little thread also.

I'd hate to drive the RB20DET GTS4 if it really did have a 3.6:1. :O

well all i know is pete from willal racing sent a R32 ratio over to steve @ manta racing and steve said the ratio was 3.6 and we wanted 3.4

I've been talking to shaun the entire time i have been dealing with them. Was disapointed with it as I was happy when I got my car serviced there, after all the good stuff I've heard about them in this thread

the one closest to the firewall. The other end was loose but we didn't want to tighten it up incase it broke off aswell

The mechanic that helped me this morning said he would take it to work and it would take a few days to repair and will cost a bit as the manifold usually need machining to make it flush again if the studs have been broken for a while, which looks like the case here.

When I pulled the old motor out I was suprised there wasn't any noise as the first and rear cylinder had broken exhaust studs, 4 studs broken in total.

I didn't bother machining the exhaust manifold and its been fine for 40,000km's, I've been watching the block for any black crap. :O

Apart from that its not hard to do, I can have a turbo pulled off within 1.5hrs, takes about the same to put it back on. To remove the studs stuck in the head was suprsingly easy. Some may not be so lucky though. ;)

Its important to torque the exh. manifold nuts up to specs as if you don't you will break more studs.

Its scary how loose the torque specs are, it felt like only just past finger tight. :D

Bl4ck32 when doing his also commented on the lack of torque required.

post-382-1150607849.jpg

So is it possible to do it at home or am i better off paying a workshop to do it?

The machanic i had around works out at Agastino Mitsubishi and said that it usually takes a couple of days to drill out the stuck studs and replace them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
    • The log you did with ECU voltage, can you log the other things too like rpm and oil pressure? Need all that info together to compare easily
    • Editting as I hit post to soon, and this will lock out otherwise.
×
×
  • Create New...