Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

forgot to mention I have 1994 R33 GTS4,

One thing I noticed is once the 4WD and ABS led flashes the SLIP led doesnt work anymore, normally it flashes when the rear wheels loos control or slips. which means it has switched back to RWD from 4WD.mmmmmmm, No I dont know why ABS led allways cometogether with 4WD??????

Maybe a electrical problem.................. :):):mad:

Sounds like you rear ABS sensor/s are faulty or damaged.

Both ABS and ATTESSA systems use the ABS sensors to determine slip/skiding/etc.

Sounds like you rear ABS sensor/s are faulty or damaged.

Both ABS and ATTESSA systems use the ABS sensors to determine slip/skiding/etc.

I took my car to a workshop, which they hook it up to a handheld computer thingy, it came up saying "G sensor error"

By the way where is the ABS sensor can be found on ? im sure all 4 wheels got them but no idea what it looks like or where it is exactly located in?

any help...................a pictur maybe...

Cheers

The G sensor is a small metal box in the centre console rear of the gearshift. You will see it as soon as you take the console off.

It has a small window on the front which apparently goes red when the sensor is busted - don't forget your problem could be the wiring between the sensor and the computer as well

The ABS sensors are little toothed wheels - front ones are on the hubs and rear ones are next to the diff. There is a small sensor attached to the diff or hub that reads how many teeth go by to calculate wheel speed.

The ABS sensors are little toothed wheels - front ones are on the hubs and rear ones are next to the diff. There is a small sensor attached to the diff or hub that reads how many teeth go by to calculate wheel speed.

Cheers, Thanks mate. bythe way i found more infor regarding this issue on another web site as well.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/46982-ca...my-gtr33-2.html

FYI----(The following has been copied from above mentioned site)

If you disconnected the battery you may of just deleted all the fault codes from the ECU,s that have recorded the faults.

Over the last few years we have come to notice what causes these faults and mostly are as follows in order which we have noticed.

A 33 has Electric Hicas so the Power steering fluid fix will not work ( the 32 is the only car that has hyraulic Hicas )

Normally if the 4wd lights comes on by itself it will be a low fluid level.

If the 4wd lights and ABS lights come on it will be throttle switch or ABS sensor.

If the 4wd/ABS/HICAS lights come on normally the rear wiper pipe broken and it has flooded the ECU,s in the boot.

Cheers

Chinthana

  • 3 weeks later...

what exactly is the throttle switch?

having just messed around with the throttle getting wiring through the fire wall my 4wd + ABS lights have come on. Guessing its related.

Cheers, Thanks mate. bythe way i found more infor regarding this issue on another web site as well.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/46982-ca...my-gtr33-2.html

FYI----(The following has been copied from above mentioned site)

If you disconnected the battery you may of just deleted all the fault codes from the ECU,s that have recorded the faults.

Over the last few years we have come to notice what causes these faults and mostly are as follows in order which we have noticed.

A 33 has Electric Hicas so the Power steering fluid fix will not work ( the 32 is the only car that has hyraulic Hicas )

Normally if the 4wd lights comes on by itself it will be a low fluid level.

If the 4wd lights and ABS lights come on it will be throttle switch or ABS sensor.

If the 4wd/ABS/HICAS lights come on normally the rear wiper pipe broken and it has flooded the ECU,s in the boot.

Cheers

Chinthana

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For something a little more serious, Davinci Resolve is about the best there is for free video editors. No expiration dates or watermarks, completely free.
    • Well, it's taken me until the last week of 2024 to actually do something on the Skyline but I consider it a good head start to 2025's efforts! I managed to justify (to myself anyway...) my purchase of the lift table. It made taking the rear subframe out a lot easier than it would have been without anyway! Everything is out and stripped down ready for a clean then powdercoating.  She's pretty grubby under there but pretty good condition for a 38 year old Japanese tin bucket. 12 years of zero street time have obviously helped that... I need to decide which of the factory suspension arms I will keep and replace so I only get what I'm keeping powdercoated.  Baby steps but it's a start!  
    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...