Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just an question, doesn't the SAFC II have the ability to have 2 different settings. Therefore you could have an Air/Fuel setting for High and Low boost??

If so, wouldn't that would be the choice for low mods on bang for buck basis?

tlai909, you would really be putting down the ponies if you maxed out a z32, but you can always tune off the dyno beyond the afm, just like with the stock afm.

jlnewton, IMHO, the SAFC is great for anyone wanting a performance increase without going the whole hog. If you are after a lazy 200+rwkw or so, it should be fine as alot of lads get good results even beyond this figure. If you change your mind later and want a power fc, there is a market for these second hand so you wont be stuck with it.

Steve

Ustasa, yep I spoke to Melvin already ;)

I was the guy with the white ER34 with carbon bonnet, I have the basic version of the emanage at the moment but will talk to you guys when I have some $$$ :)

MAP sesnsor is optional extra for the emanage or you can hook it up to a Profec e-01 for the unit to sense boost :uh-huh:

Hi guys the problem with SAFC's and similar products is that they only address one of the problems. By the time you add;

*an ignition tuning piggy back

*a speed cut defender

*a boost controller

*an overboost defeater

*spend the time or pay someone to wire these things up

you end up paying more than a plug in and go, Apexi Power FC would cost.

Plus when you do have a problem it is damn hard to fault find amongst all of the piggy backs and their associated wiring.

Hope that helps.

Sydneykid, I agree with you on all points except the boost controller. Even if you get something like a Power FC, the bleed valve is still going to be inferior to an electronic boost controller. It's best to get an EBC as well as the Power FC.

But you're right, it is generally best to get the Power FC instead of most of those things. However, some people don't want all those things. For example, my car already came with an EBC and fuel cut defender, so adding in a S-AFC was a pretty cheap upgrade. If I had neither of those things then I might have just waited a little longer (who am I kidding - a LOT longer) and gotten the Power FC.

The S-AFC is a very good interim mod if you're low on cash. And when you can afford the Power FC, you'll know that there will be somene to buy it off you.

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Hi guys the problem with SAFC's and similar products is that they only address one of the problems.  By the time you add;

*an ignition tuning piggy back

*a speed cut defender

*a boost controller

*an overboost defeater

*spend the time or pay someone to wire these things up  

you end up paying more than a plug in and go, Apexi Power FC would cost.

Plus when you do have a problem it is damn hard to fault find amongst all of the piggy backs and their associated wiring.

Hope that helps.

If you're talking about seperate piggy backs like

SAFC + ITC + HKS speed cut etc... then yes it would add up to probably more than a powerfc itself.

How much is a PowerFC new? $2000?

emanage with all cables etc is around $1000 new.

you could get emanage + tuning for probably less than a new powerfc :D

I'm not saying powerfc is bad....but hey, we have a new alternative now and it's not all that bad. :)

Ed, have you got a link for the emanage? I read your thread about it, but I couldn't really see a full list of features and what it can and can't do. Does it cost more to tune than an S-AFC? (which is about $150)

Hi ed, last time I bought a new Power FC from Nengun it cost me $1400. I had it fitted and the car tuned on the dyno in under 2 hours.

Last time I bought a SAFC it cost $780, plus $150 for the auto electrician to wire it up and mount it (looked nice and neat). Then I spent 3.5 hours, on the dyno tuning the A/F ratios, 'cause I had to keep compromising with the no adjustment of the ignition timing. Then I hit the overboost limiter a couple of times and had to reset the ECU. Plus I had to do it in 3rd gear cause the speed limiter kicked in in 4th. So the torque numbers were not comparable with other cars done in 4th.

Bottom line, it developed less power and cost more than doing it with a PFC in the first place.

Hi JimX, we use the Power FC boost controller which uses the same solenoid as the Apexi EBC. What I would have done in your case is sell the EBC and the fuel cut defender and buy a second hand PFC with boost controller, better result, not much more cost.

Hey, each to his own, maybe it's just because I don't like all those extra controllers, wiring and stuff hanging around ready to fail.

Hey SydneyKid,

Yeah, each their own. But I think PowerFC and emanage both have their spot in the market place.

If you have stock turbo and cooler and just wanna lean out mixtures a bit. Would the PowerFc not be overkill?

Taken from FAQ

It's hard to say at what point it's wiser to go with a stand-alone than a piggyback computer (ie the E-manage) – it really depends on how good the car's ECU is to begin with, the amount of modifications, etc.  If nothing else, the E-manage makes for a great stepping stone before going to a full stand-alone – you can learn to tune the car while having the factory fuel map to fall back on.

ed: I think if you have a stock cooler, and only running a bit of boost, even the S-AFC is probably overkill.

It all depends on the price. I know i would prefer to get a 2nd hand PowerFC installed, even if it costs that little bit more, compared to the cost of a new S-AFC. Why do things twice later on down the track when one is just a lower version of the other, and price difference can come down to as little as $600 or so??

The increase to be had in the midrange through the use of a PFC is also not to be overlooked

predator666, in my case...stock cooler + 9psi...

S-AFC II is around $600....installation and tune is how much?

e-manage for me was $900 installed + tuned

12 points vs 16?

How much is a 2nd hand PowerFC? $1200? Tuning it?

and if I do decide to upgrade, I'm sure the emanage won't have to be ripped out and replaced.

Trust have a monster GTR running the e-manage, I don't think my car will get quite to that level though :)

Have I got his right;

Emanage $US299

Support Tool $US119

Injector Harness $US35

Ignition Harness $US35

Presure Sensor $US99

Pressure Sensor Harness $US29

That's $US616 plus duty and freight

say around $A1,350

Plus, I then have to fit all the wiring harnesses and mount the thing. Easy 3 hour job, before I can start tuning.

Each to his own and this each will take the PFC thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...