Will I Make 300rwkw

[Cool Hand Luke]

I don't believe it will on stock cams, Nice cams you may get close with an open exhaust.

Clint32 here in Adelaide went crazy on an RB25 with 26 internals, big cams etc running a GT3040 .82. On the engine dyno it made a solid 580hp with around 25-26psi.

On the rolling road it made a solid 338rwkw.

BUT.. That is a built motor with a stupid amount of headwork, big cams, plenum, high comp raito (9:1) expensive fmic and basically no exhaust.

No doubt it was running on some nice juice also.

Dont flame me, because im not dissing anyone here. But my experience with engine building (which is more than you probably think, and with some very high profile builders) is that its not a matter of buying this part, adding this, give it a port and polish etc etc, but building an engine combination which all the parts work effectively together, and the engine is built as an enitre package, rather than buying cool and popular bits and throwing it together. I've seen so many times an engine which has all the brand name parts, and performs not much better than a stocker, and sometimes worse overall.

There are so many variables that go into a good engine combination, that you cant list 3 or 4 engine specs and ask the power output and how long it will last. What are ALL the specs of your combination? What fuel? How good is your engine tuner? how will you drive it? How will the parts work together/will the parts you bought work efficiently with your combination? the list goes on, and the replies in this thread prove that there isnt a definate answer to this on going argument that seems pop up in this forum :>

Edited March 24, 2006 by Cool Hand Luke

[N I B]

The last post is so correct.Seen many shopping list engine packages with about a 50% success rate.

[Cubes]

Success rate with regards to?

[EVL032]

just get it dynoed and then you will know for sure

[Freeman]

WHat is the correct way to build a car with solid performance, last ages and make the most of the modifications?

[N I B]

Dont go to far!

[Cubes]

What exactly do you mean by that NIB?

I can understand if you are only after a solid high km street use 250-300rwkw then stick with a nice comp ratio running cast pistons, std rods, nice bearings, crank collar if required with a sensible pressure oil pump, comp ratio suitable for pump fuel while keeping rpm sensible.

You wouldn't really want to run forged pistons with huge bore clearances for high boost/race applications, high pressure oil pump, high rpm anti-cavitating water pump etc.

Is that more so what you are trying to get at?

Clints R32 example, the car was built specifically for track high rpm use, the entire thing is gutted, forged rods, pistons etc he has gone to the extent of running a fuel cell. It has been setup for race use the serious way, its not for street use.

I believe Martin tuned the Motec.

I still believe aftermarket cams in a stock comp ratio'd rb25det on pump fuel with a gt30 hanging off the side is the safest way to attempt 300rwkw.

Improving the heads ability to breath helps it make more power on any given boost level. This is a good thing to aid reliability.

[Abo Bob]

Also cams with a longer duration reduce the dynamic compression ratio meaning you can run more timing before it pings, particularly in the mid range.

[thizzle]

Hi mate..

Please don't take offence to my comments but you are shoooting yourself in the foot doing what you are doing!

I see too many people like yourself who bolt on all this great stuff but they expect the standard engine to deal with it all... it just won't happen...

It makes much more sense to concentrate on building up the engine first to handle the power, then bolt on all the good stuff to finish it off..

300kw at the wheels with stock internals.... I think you'll be walking around with your car in the garage with a blown motor before long...

Sorry if I'm being a bit blunt here but I'm just giving you a heads up because I've seen it happen all too often before...

My advice... keep it mild until you can afford to build up your engine...

Up to you though... goodluck!!!

sorry to be blunt but i have been on 301 kw for a yr now and i use my redline as a shift light its proven by BD4S and JMS call em up...f*kin aussie tuners...see what happens when take a jap car to an aussie..would you take a commodore to a jap tuner???

[Cubes]

bah load of crap thizzle and you know it.

[meggala]

my thoughts are if the tune is good and you arent running 300rwkw all the time you should be fine. good fuel is also the key.

300rwkw for the dyno comps and drag days 220-250 for the rest of the time and you will be fine. engine life will be much shorter than stock cause more power = more engine stress. 250 rwkw is sustainable long term.cams change the whole dynamic of the motor. remember these motors have cams to suit emissions not out right power.

meggala

[ISL33P]

in short yes. just take into conisderation what you want from the car and how you drive it and how far you want to push it.

it is not a matter of what everyone else thinks, as long as you are happy with the end result and the tuner is smart enought to keep decent afr with a reasonable amount of timing, you shouldn't have any problems which will make for a saftely barrier from bad fuel etc.

having said that sensibly, go for it, people play down the standard engines because they themselves have tried to run stupid amounts of boost with the std turbo, stk injectors and computer and wondered why it blew up, please give me a break.

ps - throw some fuel additives to make it even safer.