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Does anyone have an opinion as to what the best 10"subwoofer is? I intend to drive it with an Alpine MRV1000 for now until I can afford something better. I prefer my bass tight and accurate without too much overhang so i guess it would need to perform best in a sealed box. I've measured the space where I would like to place the box and I can fit a box of 28-40 litres. If someone knows of a sub that sounds good in a ported box this size I'm listening.

Subs I have cosidered so far-

Boston Acoustics pro

Soundstream Exact

Focal polyglass

Kicker solobaric L7 2ohm DVC

Thank you in advance for caring.

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BOoStEr,

You should take a look at the Peerless XLS 10 sub. This beast is designed to produce very tight deep bass from a 14 litre enclosure - not a typo, fourteen litres. Peerless are a danish co. that make audophile grade drivers. Scan-Speak and Vifa are mfg'd by the same parent co. You'll find Peerless drivers in European hi fi Loudspeakers costing $20K and more.

I have the 12" and this beast can maim small furry mammals from 2 blocks away. However you'll need 300-400WRMS, preferably unregulated to really get it moving. I paid $250 for it, and I haven't heard a more accurate and musical sub at ANY price !!

Expect to pay less for the 10" !!

Here's the Data sheet link. http://www.d-s-t.com/peerless/index.htm

and another overview: http://www.d-s-t.com/main/tech/xls_intro.htm

Ignore at your peril !!

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I forgot to add: The only one that comes close of those you've auditioned - for accuracy & timing - is the Focal.

Peerless speakers are available from Wagner Elecronic Services (aka WES) in Ashfield, Syd & others are listed on the Danish Sound Technology website.

Wish I had Your Eclipse deck to audition the sub !

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Yes, I have the 308SWR. The JMLab (focal) inverted tweeter is a unique & precious gem. I don't know of another that would better it. As for Peerless mids & tweets - it all depends on your crossover design as to how well they'll perform cohesively- Danish speakers are renowned for accuracy (Dynaudio anyone ?). so they probably would sound a little dull compared to Bostons, etc. This is because all you'll hear is the music - the speakers have no colouration. a lot of folks who audition Dynaudio ending up buying another brand 'cos they don't "make" music sound sweet - they just tell the truth. It's a very personal thing.

Insider Tip: Orpheus loudspeakers use Peerless Drivers - and Orpheus are used by many top recording studios - because they require accuracy above Hi-Fi "sweetness". http://www.orpheusaudio.com.au/a1.html

I would drop these guys a line - I've found that companies like this are willing to offer some really good tips for a keen enthusiast 'cos that's what they are all about.

Happy not-too-tormenting decision making !!

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BigDatto Is the JMLab tweeter part of the focal range? If so what is the model number? eg TN45? Or are they available from component suppliers? The Peerless RDC2000 , DT80 and 53NDT all seem to have limited mounting options. Have you auditioned any of these? Do you think these drivers would sound good using an Alpine DREA500 active crossover? Are Peerless midwoofers efficient enough to run well on 40 WRMS? as I already have an Alpine MRV400 4x40 WRMS to run active front splits.

Is there anyone else out there using Peerless subs or speakers? I would love to audition some.

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JMLab is the parent company. They make domestic Hi-Fi cabinets.

Focal is the division that markets Car speakers. The JMLab Grande Utopia speaker( got a spare $50k ?) features the inverted dome tweeter.

http://www.focal-jmlab.fr/gb/sommaire.htm

looking at sensitivities, 90dB for the 6 1/2" woofer & 91.7dB for the 53NDT is quite efficient - should produce plenty of clean SPL with headroom IF you highpass at say 70-80Hz.

With an active crossover, you really can't go wrong... provided it has adjustability for the crossover point, phase reversal, highpass etc.

I have the 53NDT's mounted in the A pillar - the BigDatto was factory fitted with Kenwood nasty tweeters here - no need for the Dremel. Lucky me.

Ultimately the pro's of using component speakers is you'll save a fortune. 90+% of Peerless' business is OEM, so you're not paying for advertising, marketing, flashy printed boxes, manuals etc etc.

The way I see it, there's no cons for you, BOoStEr, cos' you've got an active Xover !! You don't have to stuff around with caps & coils.

The other benefit is you can Biamp ( dedicated amp channel for each driver) this is MUCH better than a passive a la conventional splits. Plus with the $$ you save, you could get some kick panels fabricated - It would then sound better than ANYTHING you could door mount - food for thought.

Why don't you give WES Components a call, or post an email ?

They have a consulting sound engineer, Russell Stone & from memory he's in your part of the state.

p.s I would be VERY interested to see the US car audio articles you mentioned RE: Peerless drivers - Got a scanner ??

Cheers Bud

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BigDatto, The reason I'm asking about Peerless mids and tweeters is because my current Kef drivers seem very inefficient.

I've been driving the splits passive with 100 WRMS a side and they dont get very loud. I want run to them active but I only have 4x40 WRMS and 4x30 WRMS amps spare. I doubt these could drive the Kefs adequately so maybe I need some more powerful amps or more efficient speakers.

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Oh, BTW are the KEF's High passed ??

This can make a substantial difference - otherwise your amp will be sending low frequency signals to speakers that simply can't reproduce them - robbing you of headroom and SPL.

it's just a thought.......'cos 100w should be able to shift air even if they're 86 - 87dB @1w@1m.

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The Kefs are high passed at 80Hz using the 12db/ octave filter on the amp. BTW this system isn't in my Skyline, it's in my daily driver but I'm seriously thinking about pinching the Kefs and the MRV1000 (to run the sub) for the 'line. The Kef passive crossover is pretty inefficient due to its high element count. It also has a device like a light bulb for tweeter protection. Just as the Kefs start to get loud this bulb glows too brightly. Do you think this is a sign of the amp clipping or simply delivering too much power?

Smart plan?...hmm ... Feels more like a dilemma.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Originally posted by BOoStEr

Does anyone have an opinion as to what  the best 10"subwoofer is? I intend to drive it with an Alpine MRV1000 for now until I can afford something better. I prefer my bass tight and accurate without too much overhang so i guess it would need to perform best in a sealed box. I've measured the space where I would like to place the box and I can fit a box of 28-40 litres. If someone knows of a sub that sounds good in a ported box this size I'm listening.  

Subs I have cosidered so far-

Boston Acoustics pro  

Soundstream Exact  

Focal polyglass

Kicker solobaric L7 2ohm DVC

Thank you in advance for caring.

Focal Utopia (11 inch, not 10)

JL 10W7

Hertz Air Mille 2800

DLS MW series

Soundstream Picasso and Da Vinci (new models)

The Kicker S10L7 has been discontinued (in Australia at least, because the distributor Custom Car has stopped bringing them.)

For the Focal and the JL you are looking at around $1K per driver, whereas the Hertz and the DLS are sub-$500.

Good luck.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I recently bought a amp and sub last week. It was the 2002 model pioneer gear. The GMX-562 amp and the 254C series 10" sub in a box which contains 22.7litres. I got both of these for $300 each. The amp was the last one in stock and it happened 2 b the demo one. I originally asked for a 12" but there would b a six week wait and that was no good so i bought the last 10". The sub is great but its not 2 good for those of u who like ur drum and bass which needs 2 b heard a block away. Im now looking at getting a Fusion 15" sub which can be run in conjunction with the 10" provided the amp can handle 1 or 2 ohms. The amp is rated 2 300watts so it should handle it or it will b upgraded 2 a 760 watter.

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