Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

good post that, mines going to be needed to done on a dyno as im going to be running an rb30 in and obviously these dont come with a rb30det computer

i dont think running the engine in on the standard injectors and rb25de computer would work to well, correct me if im wrong however.

i was planning on taking it to a dyno and getting a base tune then using the running in guides from here. good post once again sydneykid cheers.

how many kms do people run their engines in for before applying max power. ive read in a few places 5k is whats reccomended and others that 1000kms is fine, any suggestions?

which way to bathurst do you go Gary? via penrith and motorway? or though bells line with lots more hills ??

If i get away early enough (4am 'ish) I go via Bells, if later than 6am 'ish I go freeway. Traffic is too slow on Bells late in the morning, you don't get the chance for consistent, long loads.

Looking at SK's Bathurst post, I'd say 500k

Around 650 k's from first start up by the time I get to the dyno for the power tune.

:O cheers :P

so you didnt do the under 3-4000rpm trick at the start ??

My engine builder told me 500-1000km and that's what I did. I didn't redline it until after 100km, now has 4000 and running well.

Builder said if it was going to fail he wanted it to fail early so get stuck into it!

so you didnt do the under 3-4000rpm trick at the start ??

Just realised I left a 0 out of my original post but yeah I just gradually upped the revs I was using so I probably did stay under about 3500rpm for the first 50km or so.

  • 1 month later...

interesting post

i'm about to do this on a rb24 - new rings / bearings etc... only problem is that the car is mainly a track car and not registered - i will rego it to run it in though...

has anyone else with a dedicated track car had any success with running a motor in - in as little time possible

thanks

SK did a write-up of how he runs in engines. I don't have the link handy (do a search) but basically he does a single run from Sydney to Bathurst again, and once he's back the engine is run in properly. Not just cruising up the freeway, you need to check the details. It sounds like fun to me, I'll most likely do it myself should I ever do a rebuild.

yeah i 'was' thinking of doing a drive from SA to mildura but thats just open driving so changed my mind. now i've decided to do about 6 return trips (150km round trip) from my house to mannum in SA - goes through twisty roads but also has some open roads - so good for putting it under load etc but keeping off boost to start with

SK did a write-up of how he runs in engines. I don't have the link handy (do a search) but basically he does a single run from Sydney to Bathurst again, and once he's back the engine is run in properly. Not just cruising up the freeway, you need to check the details. It sounds like fun to me, I'll most likely do it myself should I ever do a rebuild.

link to his write up is in my post just up a bit.

All we did was bed the rings on the dyno.

Then get stuck into the power tune. Whatever RPM as soon as it was tuned.

None of this 4000rpm, varying loads etc etc.

My RB25 was apart not long ago actually

And contrary to popular belief, A-OK. Nothing wrong with it at all.

Similar can be said for the countless RB25/RB26's that have been done this way :)

Running in "500km's" IMO is a myth. And that myth as far as im concerned was broken as tested by my RB25

If you can gain access to some cheap or free dyno time do it there. I ran my 26 in by running it to the floor in 4th at about 60kph eg 2-2,500rpm at timed intervals => temps (but not flat for the first few ks). Did this for bout 100-150ks worth n that was it.

But i guess if u dont have dyno time, try n do this on a big hill.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...