Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I understand everything about this concept but I have never seen an RB26 motor out of the bay before...does anyone have any pictures of where these oil feeds are.....and how do you differentiate between which is the 1st feed and 2nd so as not to get confused aboiut which to block and which to restrict?

Thanks

I wounder how this effects oil pressure just by blocking the rear orifice off.

cheers

Makes no difference, the pressure relief valve controls the oil pressure.

:dry: cheers :thumbsup:

I dont really want to pull a RB26 apart just to do these mods, especially given its young age (1999) but i dont want to sit back and wait for it to go 'BANG' while im at Mallala.

Would a much larger sump with the appropriate baffles suffice for the occasional track day or does the majority of oil remain in the head regardless of sump volume???

snake you pretty much have to pull the engine to put the baffled sump in, the head is only a few bolts further to go....and once thats off why not do new rings bearings and balancing as well?

Ok Guys...

On sunday we started pulling the engine out to do

1: restrictor

2: clutch

3: Engine mount

4: look for any issues

5: change lifters

We took out the engine and box at the same time.

I have got pictures here for everyone to look at on how to put the restrictors in. its pretty easy and does work!!!! before i used to get lots of oil escaping from the CATCH can. ie the catch can was not working. now nothing comes out of the catch can. All i did was block the front oil feed and put a tomei 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed (as per sydney kids advice) people would tell me my engine was rooted because its got lots of blow by rah rah rah so i aimed to prove them wrong.

To block one of the oil feeds we screwed a screw into the 1.8mm (stock rb30 restrictor) and then pulled it out. once it was out we realised that the screw was stuck in there so we just cut it and put it back in. (See pic)

As for the other one I purchased the 1.5 mm restrictor from hi octane (the tomei one for $17 delivered) and bashed the old restrictor down and bashed this one ontop. (see pics)

for the million $$ question does it make a difference in oil pressure???.

YES.. it does.. BUT only when the engine is cold. before the oil pressure gauge would go up to 3 quarters full on cold startup. Now it goes nearly up to the last line but as soon as the engine warms up it goes back to normal and NO oil pressure increase has been noticed at all.

No difference in lifter noise has been noticed.

YES it did fix my problem (well SO FAR. no oil has escaped from the catch can when before it would escape from catch can.)

I built this RB30DET back in 2004 before anyone knew about the oil issue and how to fix it - so thanks to sydney kids help i have been able to fix this problem.

Its very easy to put the restrictors in and i reccomend that you do this on your rb30det conversion.

See pics.

I hope this helps everyone - heaps of pics to look at.. I am really stoaked my clutch works properly now !!! :mellow:

post-1240-1149091392.jpg

post-1240-1149091499.jpg

post-1240-1149091536.jpg

post-1240-1149091586.jpg

post-1240-1149091731.jpg

post-1240-1149091847.jpg

post-1240-1149091927.jpg

post-1240-1149092020.jpg

post-1240-1149092134.jpg

post-1240-1149092258.jpg

post-1240-1149092311.jpg

post-1240-1149092396.jpg

post-1240-1149092456.jpg

post-1240-1149092564.jpg

post-1240-1149092707.jpg

post-1240-1149092771.jpg

post-1240-1149092946.jpg

post-1240-1149093006.jpg

post-1240-1149093102.jpg

post-1240-1149093285.jpg

Edited by Guilt-Toy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...