Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[lovethatboost]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead.

I plan on doing Tomei sump mod, and probably the line from rear of head to sump.

I talked to my machnist and he says the restrictor seems like a reasonable idea to limit flow for oil surge issue. The problem he says for my application is he's worried about the hydraulic lifters with the oil gallery restrictor. He described a VERY similar problem that can happen to the individual on this forum who ended up having lifter noise.

My application is for street driving and occasional/frequent drag racing and less occasional road racing.

[Guilt-Toy]

Its been covered here about 500 times. Sydneykid is probly sick of explaining it to every single person who does not read this thread properly.

I put the restrictor on my engine and the lifters had no issues. i used the tomei 1.5 mm and i blocked the other one off totally.

Go back and read what sydneykid explained earlier in the thread that method works fine. (lots of oil gets to the top end still if you take the oil cap off you can see the oil slushing around in there

if your that worried about it then run 2 x 1mm restrictors to keep your engine builder happy but i blocked one off and restricted the other.

Sorry to bring this back from the dead.

I plan on doing Tomei sump mod, and probably the line from rear of head to sump.

I talked to my machnist and he says the restrictor seems like a reasonable idea to limit flow for oil surge issue. The problem he says for my application is he's worried about the hydraulic lifters with the oil gallery restrictor. He described a VERY similar problem that can happen to the individual on this forum who ended up having lifter noise.

My application is for street driving and occasional/frequent drag racing and less occasional road racing.

[lovethatboost]

Please re-read that my application is more geared toward street/weekend strip.

I won't be revving higher than 8000 and i'll be spending most kms below the rev range.

It won't be a track car.. Does it still aplly?

BTW: I read the whole thread and if i saw my specific question answered i would have not posted this..

Edited December 19, 2006 by lovethatboost

[SirRacer]

a bit off topic here but guilt toy what are those pistons made for? and the eagle rods also??? havent seen either used before on a 30

[DVS JEZ]

have been upgrading my RB26 to help with the oil control issues, finished a design that a mate and i made up today,

note that the tail end goes to the rear turbo drain in the block, can be teed into it, but cause im running a single it was unused anyway,

sorry bout the small pics, i will try and get some bigger ones, they were taken with a fone,

cheers

Jeremy

Attached image(s)

Edited January 7, 2007 by DVS32R

[signalpuke]

From the tomei website - here are some pics of what happens to the old restrictor and where they are

I am trying to do as much research as possible on the RB motors, and being from the USA makes it a lil difficult as the motor is rare, and most information is in Japanese. I have an RB20DET, and the last thing I want is oil starvation, as the parts to repair it are expensive and hard to come by. I do have a few questions regarding this topic.

-It seems this is an issue with all RB motors, is this true?

-Will restricting the oil to the head cause any problems?

-Has anyone considered having their crankshaft, connecting rods, and the underside of their pistons coated with an oil shedding material such as teflon?

If this is an issue with all RB series motors why didnt Nissan address the issue by restricting oil to the head from the factory? Did they determine that reducing oil to the head would cause more harm? An oil shedding material coating the internals of the engine would allow the pan to fill faster, and create more horsepower as the RPMs climbed.

[DVS JEZ]

I am trying to do as much research as possible on the RB motors, and being from the USA makes it a lil difficult as the motor is rare, and most information is in Japanese. I have an RB20DET, and the last thing I want is oil starvation, as the parts to repair it are expensive and hard to come by. I do have a few questions regarding this topic.

-It seems this is an issue with all RB motors, is this true?

-Will restricting the oil to the head cause any problems?

-Has anyone considered having their crankshaft, connecting rods, and the underside of their pistons coated with an oil shedding material such as teflon?

If this is an issue with all RB series motors why didnt Nissan address the issue by restricting oil to the head from the factory? Did they determine that reducing oil to the head would cause more harm? An oil shedding material coating the internals of the engine would allow the pan to fill faster, and create more horsepower as the RPMs climbed.

nissan didnt design the engines to run at max rpm for a long time, as in curcuit drag or drift work,

this process has been done many times by alot of engine builders with no bad outcomes or effect, some ppl say that a quic bandaid fix is to just fill the oil up to the hump on the dipstick...

[Craved]

I am trying to do as much research as possible on the RB motors, and being from the USA makes it a lil difficult as the motor is rare, and most information is in Japanese. I have an RB20DET, and the last thing I want is oil starvation, as the parts to repair it are expensive and hard to come by. I do have a few questions regarding this topic.

-It seems this is an issue with all RB motors, is this true?

-Will restricting the oil to the head cause any problems?

-Has anyone considered having their crankshaft, connecting rods, and the underside of their pistons coated with an oil shedding material such as teflon?

If this is an issue with all RB series motors why didnt Nissan address the issue by restricting oil to the head from the factory? Did they determine that reducing oil to the head would cause more harm? An oil shedding material coating the internals of the engine would allow the pan to fill faster, and create more horsepower as the RPMs climbed.

i am going to be coating the interior of my block with a teflon based paint that will hopefully assist in reducing the drain back time for oil from the head and that splashed from the crank and oil return. dont know if it will help, and not really any way to test it, but it cannot hurt either.

[TriniGT]

Circuit, drag or drift RB’s with excess oil in the cylinder head, not enough oil in the sump, oil in the catch can, wet sump, oil surge, lack of oil, big end bearing failure etc

4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block

5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil

These two points I'm a little shady on, I have found the five oil galleries from the head to the block to the sump, when you say drill out the returns do you mean to increase the bore size of the entire tunnel from sump to head?

As for the machining around the oil return galleries do you also mean to make the entrance to the return wider on the head to readily accept the oil rather than having the straight cut holes? Can some please expand on those two topics as I have the engine scrapped right now undergoing the above things before I start rebuilding and doing my S-chassis swap. Pics would be nice for this part. SK if you have pics is it possible to post some up, sorry if it may be a ridiculous question.

[stav]

Does anyone sell or make rear oil drain adapter for rear of head as in Sydney kids pics ?

[Craved]

Does anyone sell or make rear oil drain adapter for rear of head as in Sydney kids pics ?

it would be difficult to do it in a kit form

reasons:

have to drill and tap the rear of the head (which you wouldnt do with an assembled engine - swarf etc)

everyones setups are different

need the return brazed or welded to the sump

if your going to do it, do it when your building the engine, speedflow fittings and oil line are easy to get to be able to make your own up.

[TriniGT]

Does anyone sell or make rear oil drain adapter for rear of head as in Sydney kids pics ?

Any pics of Sydneykid's oil return setup?

[TriniGT]

If you are looking from the fornt of the car which side of the sump are you welding the fitting to, the right or left side? I am thinking the left side but wanna make sure. My engine is currently rebuilding and would like to complete this mod same time.

[R31Nismoid]

Any pics of Sydneykid's oil return setup?

If you read the whole tread you'll find there is atleast one pic already posted

[TriniGT]

If you read the whole tread you'll find there is atleast one pic already posted

Yeah saw them. One question, how did you remove the Welsh plugs and replace them. I want to do this since the enigne is being rebuilt. Also can someone epxand on the drilling of the galleries and usi9ng the die grinder on the top of the oil galleries. Any pics of this process before and after it was done to get an idea. I would have gladly let someone like SydneyKid work on my car but unfortunately I am fromt Trinidad and these services are non existent over here. Any help and pics will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. I already have the baffle on order and got a Trust oil cooler kit and 1.5mm restrictor.

[DVS JEZ]

hey TriniGT

what engine are you running?

here is a pic of my rear oil drain setup. it goes into the rear oil drain for the twin turbo setup on a GTR

Edited February 1, 2007 by DVS32R

[Guilt-Toy]

Hey mate. here is a post that i posted in a older ACL Forgies thread when someone asked about my setup.

Hmmm i just noticed that the conrods have gone down in price recently.. I got them cheaper then that though through my engine builder.

-----------------

I just the ACL Race series pistons in my car for the RB30DET with 25 head and they are good. they are acually a MAHLE piston imported from the usa by ACL because it costs too much to make forgies in australia. I think MAHLE are the same brand as ROSS ?

my compression test came up at 120 in all cyl so its a little lower then before but good for high boost =)

i used the precision motorsport conrods in my engine as well which they all come out of the same factory in china (scat eagle rah rah) they do well for what they are (can handle 700rwhp) without any issues

url for my conrods

CONRODS LINK

Precision H-Beam Forged Rods - Nissan Skyline RB30/ Holden VL Commodore (set of 6) $1,150.00AUD (inc GST)

$1,045.45AUD(ex GST)

$1,020.00AUD (inc GST)

$927.27AUD(ex GST)

Forged Conrods are a must for a bullet proof rebuild on your turbocharged engine. This allows the stress to be taken off the bottom end under high rpm and high boost. Of course forged pistons are not essential, but are highly recomended.

Precision Motorsport rods are manufactured from certified 4340 steel, vacuum degassed to remove impurities, and multistage heat treated. Each forging is X-rayed, and shot peened to relieve stress, and all surfaces are 100% machined.

H-Beam Connecting Rods Feature:

NEW 4340 Certified Forged Steel Rod

ARP 5/16 2000 capscrew bolts standard

Silcone Bronze bushings for floating pins

Precision alignment sleeves positively locate the rod cap, eliminating cap walk

Packaged in weight matched sets end to end +/- 1 gram

Rated for upto 750 horsepower (Same as the limit of the factory RB30 Crankshaft)

a bit off topic here but guilt toy what are those pistons made for? and the eagle rods also??? havent seen either used before on a 30

Edited February 1, 2007 by Guilt-Toy

[kastin]

Guys (sk) what do you bore the return lines in the head and block out to? i am running the 26 head.

Thanks

Damm it's to late just rang head torque and they have assembled the head, to get them bored they would have to strip the head cost more $$$$

Farrk

Edited February 2, 2007 by kastin

[Spoolup]

I am using two 0.75mm ( 30 thou ) restrictors on my RB30 with RB25 NEO head ( solid lifters ). I have done approx 20 power runs on a dyno to 8000rpm and there isnt a drop of oil in my catch can - let alone all the street floggings its got. I also have a mate running a RB30 with RB26 head who is making 490 rwhp who is using the same size restrictors and has been driving his car for at least 6 months now and has no oil problems, his rev limiter is set at 8200.

Both are street cars, not circuit or drag. We modified the oil drain back holes with some die grinding, just to open them up a bit for increased flow and apart from the oil restrictors there are no other modifications. He is running a std RB26 pump where as mine is running a JUN pump.

[dontfeelcold]

Forged Conrods are a must for a bullet proof rebuild on your turbocharged engine. This allows the stress to be taken off the bottom end under high rpm and high boost.

I don't think that is correct. You use forged rods to handle more forces, not reduce them. Correct me if I am wrong.