Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[dazmo]

Dazmo, what kind of dollar is it for your dry sump and is there anyway of fitting one into a rb with Aircond and power steering intact ?

Hey mate i could not give you an exact figure on what my dry sump has cost me as i have not added up all the braided line and fittings but hi octane do a dry sump kit that retains the ac if you want to I think they sell them for around 6 or 7k without the lines,fittings,tanks or breather tank etc. A quick break down of my set up without lines or fittings. modified sump (purchased from hi octane) $2300,5 stage peterson pump $1850,gear drive for pump and balancer $190,custom drive for balancer $150,Peterson 3 gallon oil tank $650,breather tank $120,peterson scavage filters 4 of @ $70,custom pump mount $350,oil sandwich plate $150 and a shitload of braided hose and fittings couldn't tell how much dollars worth. i would say at least $3-4k worth so is not cheap but is a lot cheaper than a f----d engine especially as my car is going to live its whole life on the track.

[STR8E180]

this is the oil pump which im using

its CNC machined from P20 tool steel

upgrade oil pumps such as JUN are laser cut which weakens the metal because its heating it up while its cutting where as this one is machined from cold steel

it does take alot longer to machine up compared to laser cutting

[Chris_A31]

this is the oil pump which im using

its CNC machined from P20 tool steel

upgrade oil pumps such as JUN are laser cut which weakens the metal because its heating it up while its cutting where as this one is machined from cold steel

it does take alot longer to machine up compared to laser cutting

Any idea if the aftermarket pumps are heat treated and/or annealed at all? Generally if tool steel is used, its sent for heat treatment to correct the grain structure in the steel, making it tougher and/or harder.. therefore the way the steel is cut is irrelevant

Edited August 12, 2008 by Love_Hate

[robots]

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/...rb-engines.html

i have found recently that on all the rb26 we have rebuilt the the bottom of the conrod and the conrod cap the two mating faces were the big end bolts go are not flat!!! and thats why they keep doing bottom ends as there is room for the bearing to move and destroy its self .

once we flattend these off so they were perfectly flat on both the rod and the cap the engines have been great skid all day on the limiter

i would check this on some of your old engines

kind regards jamie

What do you guys think about that ? Could that also be an issue, and not the balancer and oil pump drive letting go ?

[Cubes]

Shouldn't that be part of a normal rebuild?

I had the bottom end caps slightly machined flat then machined to obtain perfect clearances.

[Mister25t]

I'm drilling mine out to 10mm, to match the head gasket.

Diameter of one of the oil drain holes, where it steps to the larger diameter is 9.65mm, and gasket was 10mm.

Oh yea, thanks. No issues with it not lining up with the gasket?

[Angus Smart]

Moar on oil..

can i remove the stock oil cooler? bolted to the side of the block?

[Chris Wilson]

Moar on oil..

can i remove the stock oil cooler? bolted to the side of the block?

This is something I am interested in doing, too. As far as I can see the issue would be you lose the spring loaded oil bypass system, should the oil filter clog or collapse internally. I am thinking of tapping the block to take a filter thread adapter straight on to its side, and binning the cooler and associated bits altogether. I would then accept that should a filter block that safeguard was absent, and I would also take care to not rev the engine hard from cold, in case the bypass was used to pass viscous oil around the filter in such circumstances (which I think is doubtful). Please critique this.

[Angus Smart]

My mate came over tonite and looked at my new motor and said, fu*k that thing off, thats some weight you can loose..

i'm sure another bypass system can be made or can be worked out to work properly..

[9krpm]

Hey mate i could not give you an exact figure on what my dry sump has cost me as i have not added up all the braided line and fittings but hi octane do a dry sump kit that retains the ac if you want to I think they sell them for around 6 or 7k without the lines,fittings,tanks or breather tank etc. A quick break down of my set up without lines or fittings. modified sump (purchased from hi octane) $2300,5 stage peterson pump $1850,gear drive for pump and balancer $190,custom drive for balancer $150,Peterson 3 gallon oil tank $650,breather tank $120,peterson scavage filters 4 of @ $70,custom pump mount $350,oil sandwich plate $150 and a shitload of braided hose and fittings couldn't tell how much dollars worth. i would say at least $3-4k worth so is not cheap but is a lot cheaper than a f----d engine especially as my car is going to live its whole life on the track.

Thanks for the details Dazmo

I am still adding up the numbers....that's a lot of money!

[Cubes]

My mate came over tonite and looked at my new motor and said, fu*k that thing off, thats some weight you can loose..

Probably a good call. Piss the rb26 off and drop an rb30 under there. No issues with the std water oil cooler then as the rb30's have the relief inside the block.

[Angus Smart]

Thanks for the details Dazmo

I am still adding up the numbers....that's a lot of money!

you'd probably end up close to the 6-7k mark if you got most of the stuff done yourself

the braided lines are really the big killer, you will spend close to 2k alone on just lines and fittings. and may even go over that price

the sump tank pump and brackets shouldn't cost that much at all in the end maybe 4k but i guess it depends if you know someone good with a welder and some dry sumping experience

Probably a good call. Piss the rb26 off and drop an rb30 under there. No issues with the std water oil cooler then as the rb30's have the relief inside the block.

haha but i just spend lots on a n1 block.. there is no rb30 ever going on here!!

Edited August 12, 2008 by Angus Smart

[[200]]

For the price of the N1 block you could have built a forged rb30 bottom end.

[Angus Smart]

For the price of the N1 block you could have built a forged rb30 bottom end.

yerp and then new turbos, new exhaust, and a whole heap of other new things i would have needed to suit the rb30. i did the math and this is the way i wanted to go... and besides i now have two motors at home so i can sell off some old bits to recoup costs.

and the price of my n1 block was quiet cheap..

[STR8E180]

Any idea if the aftermarket pumps are heat treated and/or annealed at all? Generally if tool steel is used, its sent for heat treatment to correct the grain structure in the steel, making it tougher and/or harder.. therefore the way the steel is cut is irrelevant

yep they are also heat treated

theres no point using tool steel if ur not going to heat treat it

[kismetcapitan]

so what do you think about my oil setup....

Tomei oil pump, Trust sump extension, Tomei oil baffle, Canton 2qt Accusump (fitted into Trust remote oil cooler), Tomei 1.5mm oil restrictor...and that's it. No head drain. It's all coming together this week. I figured a 1 liter overfill, plus the 1.5 extra liters with the Trust sump extension should help out in case I get a head overfilled with oil. Mines cam cover baffles should keep the oil in, and I've got a Nismo oil separator as well to help return oil thrown out of the cam covers. I've basically done everything possible except the head drain (short of going dry sump of course). Should I have done the head drain? Are there any track GT-Rs in Australia that run without a head drain?

[sly32]

as this is for oil control in rb;s, though i might aswell post in here,

i just put a new rb into my car, the oil pressure is reading 4 on my defi gauge, i thought its ment to be 2 on idle, oil is a tiny bit higher than the high mark, probably closer to the hump, is that why its at 4 the oil pressure or could this engine have after maket stuff in it like pump or something, etc....

nice thread btw JV

[GTRsean]

I'd say pump is bigger?

More flow and pressure than stock....at the same rpm.

[JimmyRickard]

Hey guys, is it possible to install a Sump Baffle Kit without pulling out the engine? I've rang about 5 workshops, and out of those 5 only one was willing to do it without pulling out the engine, so I wonder whether it can be done at all or if it can be done but it will be a shit job.

[GTRsean]

You have to pull gearbox to get to the rear small bolts,

Support engine when you drop the front crossmember to remove the sump.

It's a lot easier to pull engine out and do it out of the car. It is possible though, just a real pain.