Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[B-rice]

I would pick them based on how they fit on the car. The last thing you want is scrapping the sump open. The internals machanics of sumps is usually the same technique of technology to keep oil at the pickup.

[KiwiRS4T]

But I have read post contradicting each other in returns to which side the rear he'd drain goes on to. Some say intake side and some say exhaust because of crank windage. It would be easier if someone just said inlet or exhaust rather then left or right lol.

You're not reading it right. You don't need a "head drain" at all.

Here's a summary:

Fit 1.0mm oil restrictor. Drill out oil returns to 10mm and relieve all oil returns. Fit Mines baffle kits to cam covers.

Install 2 fittings to sump as high as possible run one hose to the top (this is a pressure relief - may also blow some oil) of an at least 2L catch can and the other to the bottom (as a drain). Also vent your cam covers to this catch can (should be very little comes out of them). Then instead of a filter on top of the catch can run a pipe to either another catch can or an oil/air separator and what comes out of that should be fine to pipe into the turbo intake - or if you prefer to a couple of LARGE airfilters. This should deal to your problems (don't bother with fitting on back of head). The second catch can will need to be emptied but not very of

[Tommybbizzle]

You're not reading it right. You don't need a "head drain" at all.Here's a summary:Fit 1.0mm oil restrictor. Drill out oil returns to 10mm and relieve all oil returns. Fit Mines baffle kits to cam covers.Install 2 fittings to sump as high as possible run one hose to the top (this is a pressure relief - may also blow some oil) of an at least 2L catch can and the other to the bottom (as a drain). Also vent your cam covers to this catch can (should be very little comes out of them). Then instead of a filter on top of the catch can run a pipe to either another catch can or an oil/air separator and what comes out of that should be fine to pipe into the turbo intake - or if you prefer to a couple of LARGE airfilters. This should deal to your problems (don't bother with fitting on back of head). The second catch can will need to be emptied but not very of

Ah ok thanks for your help. But in saying that which side do I have the pressure relief pipe on and which side do I have the drain back on? Do you have pics of your setup you could show me?

[89CAL]

My experience:

N1 oil pump, billet gears

oil feeds - 1.5mm - blank - VCT standard

Spool head drain

Catch can run from cam covers to catch can - catch can to intake pipe (Baffled proflow catch can)

PCV connected as standard

Penrite Full synthetic 15w50 (15w40 mineral used for run in)

Have had no oil burn issues so far, catch can has been dry, car has been given a hard time during tuning and havent exactly babied it since I got it back

[gtr jet]

I used to have oil pumping into my intake during track days which would always have the turbo's smoking as i cam off the track.

Blocked off the PCV and all associated plumbing. Fitted a $30 catch can with a breather plumbed to the rocker cover breathers.

No more oil issues. I usually get 50-100mm in the can after 5+ hard laps.

[KiwiRS4T]

Ah ok thanks for your help. But in saying that which side do I have the pressure relief pipe on and which side do I have the drain back on? Do you have pics of your setup you could show me?

Both on inlet side.

[n_D]

Custom 3 port alloy catch can I had fabbed up, not baller enough for proper fittings lol

Edited January 30, 2014 by n_D

[KiwiRS4T]

Custom 3 port alloy catch can I had fabbed up, not baller enough for proper fittings lol

Good work! Nothing wrong with those fittings - that's what I use with oil and heat resistant hose.

[Country Cruzin]

Getting my rb26 rebuilt, will be running 450-500hp atw, is apart bout to start, for oil control I got standard sump, sump baffle, N1 oil pump, oil restrictors, oil cooler, sump breathing to catch can. I suggested to the tuner/ engine builder bout cleaning the oil drains in the head maybe drilling them out a bit but that didn't make sense to him, said he'd never done it an he specializes in gtr's. Maybe I explained it wrong, as it's all foreign to me?? He suggested the head oil drain kit if I wanted to do something. Guess it mite actually drain thru it once I've got the sump breathing?? Is this enough? Any advice highly appreciated thanks.

[ScreamerNewbie]

if you wanted to be really safe, run a accusump also. for $300 they could save your engine come a oil pump fail. other than that all good. with a sump vented to catch can id make sure you vent the catch can to atmosphere IMO I wouldn't want that shit going back through my system. other than that looks good. maybe just keep the limiter to a soft ignition cut as you only have N1 oil pump gears. (its the bounce of the limiter that kills the gears in the oil pump, especially if you don't have the crank snout)

Edited February 24, 2014 by ScreamerNewbie

[Country Cruzin]

By snout u mean like a nitto crank collar? It will have one of them with the new build. So don't worry too much about the oil return galleries?

[ScreamerNewbie]

yes, though iv been told the tolerances on the Nitto collars aren't as nice perfect? as some the others, not sure if this is true or not.
I had the drains in the block drilled out but as I could find no clarification on how big I could SAFELY drill out the head, I left the drains in the head as the stock size. due to this, I decided to run a oil drain from back of head to sump, and of course have a large vented to atmosphere sump so the sump can breathe as much as is wants without interfering with the drain of the oil from the head (whichever path it chooses to take, being the OEM drains or the external head to sump drain)

[gtr jet]

By snout u mean like a nitto crank collar? It will have one of them with the new build. So don't worry too much about the oil return galleries?

I have a collar at home you can have for cheap.

[KiwiRS4T]

Getting my rb26 rebuilt, will be running 450-500hp atw, is apart bout to start, for oil control I got standard sump, sump baffle, N1 oil pump, oil restrictors, oil cooler, sump breathing to catch can. I suggested to the tuner/ engine builder bout cleaning the oil drains in the head maybe drilling them out a bit but that didn't make sense to him, said he'd never done it an he specializes in gtr's. Maybe I explained it wrong, as it's all foreign to me?? He suggested the head oil drain kit if I wanted to do something. Guess it mite actually drain thru it once I've got the sump breathing?? Is this enough? Any advice highly appreciated thanks.

Drilling out the oil drains to 10mm and relieving the drains is a good idea but I haven't done it. More important is the restrictors and the sump breathers so you are on the right track. Spend a little time reading this thread and you will see that the so-called "head drain" is a waste of time.

If your catch can has baffles inside it should be fine to vent it into your intake as I do. If there is too much oil vapour you will need a second, baffled catch can in that line or a proper oil/air separator. Catch can vented to atmosphere is illegal except on a track only car and on a street car you don't want those smells coming in through your ventilation system anyway.

[Country Cruzin]

Think my catch can has course steel wool inside it bit worried about putting oil back into the sump incase of an broken steel peices?

[Jazzadub]

Think my catch can has course steel wool inside it bit worried about putting oil back into the sump incase of an broken steel peices?

There is a screen on the oil pickup, but maybe you could flush some oil through the catch can to see if anything loose comes out?

If it was built correctly there should be little risk of something coming out.

If you are really nervous then remember a primary purpose of the line to the sump (above oil level) is to equalise the crankcase pressure, so oil can more freely drain from the head.

Therefore, if you are happy with emptying the tank every so often, you could just run the line to the top of the catch can.

This would equalise the crankcase pressure with no risk of anything draining back into the sump.

Hope that makes sense!

[ScreamerNewbie]

this ^ is the safest way, and depending on the type of fuel ul end up running (e85 can do nasty things to oil) this is a safe win win option

[GTRPSI]

You can also run a extra drain/breather to the bottom of the catch can, under boost it breathes, off boost it drains.

Our sump has 2 breathers, one will run to the top of the can, the other to the bottom.

Catch can should be of a type you can open and inspect so you can put a good corse steel wool inside, any points in the can that work as a drain should have a wire screen mesh over them so nothing nasty can return, mesh to be finer than the stuffing used.

Its just common sense stuff.

[menthol369]

whats the purpose of baffled catch cans?

[Ben C34]

whats the purpose of baffled catch cans?

To actually catch and seperate the oil from the blowby, rather than let it straight through.

Edited March 3, 2014 by superben