Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[Rb25/240]

[Rb25/240]

Intentionally seen another guy do it that way so I figured id try it

[GT-R David]

How much oil pressure is to much?
My RB28 has Tomei pump, 1.5mm head restrictor, 0.8mm turbo banjo bolts, 0,045mm main bearing clearance and 0,050mm conrod bearing clearence.
Tomei oil pump is at factory setting (max pressure) at the moment.

My Greddy digital gauge showing up to 7.5 bar on hot engine at 5500rpm with the 15w40 running in oil.
Will go back to 10w50 soon.


Seems fine at cold idle (6 bar) and hot idle (3 bar) and normal driving with hot engine at 3500rpm (6bar)

Should I go down with the pressure?

[burn4005]

^^2nded.

I've got a tomei pump and have just put on an accurate oil pressure gauge.  runs around 100psi at 5000rpm hot. 15w50 oil, oil cooler sits at 82 degrees unless on the track.

considering dropping to 10w40 or removing a shim from the tomei.

[Scott Black]

So considering the welsh plug fitting is just for breathing and not for a drain there should be nothing wrong with having the fitting point directly up after leaving the back of the head correct? Only putting it like that to make more room for a coolant bypass plug on the rear of the head too

[KiwiRS4T]

4 hours ago, Scott Black said:

So considering the welsh plug fitting is just for breathing and not for a drain there should be nothing wrong with having the fitting point directly up after leaving the back of the head correct? Only putting it like that to make more room for a coolant bypass plug on the rear of the head too

Don't bother.

[SSM]

Hello

I have now run my RB26 for two seasons. About 14.000km in total. I re did the hone and new piston rings this spring and buildt a new catch can. But it is coming some oil out from the filters on top of the can. I also had aboud 3dl of oil in it after 2500km drive on the Autobahn including 2 laps at the Nürburgring.

I have the rear head drain to under oil level. As I now understand this is wrong?

My setup is:

-Sock balanced bottom end.

-Jun oil pumo with spline drive gear

-Drilled oil return galleries to match head gasket

-Jun oilpan baffles

-Mines head baffles

-1.2mm restrictor

-AN10 from rear turbo drain to top of catch can

-AN10 from right side of oilpan above level to top of catch can

-AN10 rear head drain to under oil level in oilpan

-AN12 from rockercovers to top of catch can

 

What I'm thinking is to move the head drain to the position on the right side of oil pan above oil level. And only have the rear turbo drain as crank case to catch can ventilation. Is that a solution?

[GTSBoy]

That will be better.

[djr81]

11 hours ago, SSM said:

Hello

I have now run my RB26 for two seasons. About 14.000km in total. I re did the hone and new piston rings this spring and buildt a new catch can. But it is coming some oil out from the filters on top of the can. I also had aboud 3dl of oil in it after 2500km drive on the Autobahn including 2 laps at the Nürburgring.

I have the rear head drain to under oil level. As I now understand this is wrong?

My setup is:

-Sock balanced bottom end.

-Jun oil pumo with spline drive gear

-Drilled oil return galleries to match head gasket

-Jun oilpan baffles

-Mines head baffles

-1.2mm restrictor

-AN10 from rear turbo drain to top of catch can

-AN10 from right side of oilpan above level to top of catch can

-AN10 rear head drain to under oil level in oilpan

-AN12 from rockercovers to top of catch can

 

What I'm thinking is to move the head drain to the position on the right side of oil pan above oil level. And only have the rear turbo drain as crank case to catch can ventilation. Is that a solution?

You want to get the blowby in the sump out of the engine without it having to go through the oil gallery.  So if you can connect a line to the pan above the oil level then you can hook the other end into your catch can.  Which is the age old fix for engines with oil carry over in the blowby.

[SSM]

5 hours ago, djr81 said:

You want to get the blowby in the sump out of the engine without it having to go through the oil gallery.  So if you can connect a line to the pan above the oil level then you can hook the other end into your catch can.  Which is the age old fix for engines with oil carry over in the blowby.

Already got one on each side ?

[KiwiRS4T]

On 10/12/2017 at 5:16 AM, SSM said:

Hello

I have now run my RB26 for two seasons. About 14.000km in total. I re did the hone and new piston rings this spring and buildt a new catch can. But it is coming some oil out from the filters on top of the can. I also had aboud 3dl of oil in it after 2500km drive on the Autobahn including 2 laps at the Nürburgring.

I have the rear head drain to under oil level. As I now understand this is wrong?

Yes

My setup is:

-Sock balanced bottom end.

-Jun oil pumo with spline drive gear

-Drilled oil return galleries to match head gasket

-Jun oilpan baffles

-Mines head baffles

-1.2mm restrictor

1.0mm would have been better

-AN10 from rear turbo drain to top of catch can

Useless... remove

-AN10 from right side of oilpan above level to top of catch can

OK

-AN10 rear head drain to under oil level in oilpan

Useless... possibly worse... remove

-AN12 from rockercovers to top of catch can

OK

Ideally you need a second breather from oil pan above oil level to bottom of catch can to allow oil to drain back when not under pressure.

Your catch can needs to be minimum 2 Litres

 

What I'm thinking is to move the head drain to the position on the right side of oil pan above oil level. And only have the rear turbo drain as crank case to catch can ventilation. Is that a solution?

NO

 

[SSM]

On 14.10.2017 at 6:03 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

 

Thanks

So use the rear turbo return as a crankcase vent is no good?

I'm a bit concerned to have a return from the catch can to the oilpan.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Why would you be concerned about that?

[SSM]

28 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Why would you be concerned about that?

Because the oil that is in the catch can is not clean. At least it do not look clean.

[ScreamerNewbie]

do not dump the shit from your catch can back to the sump, theres a reason it its called a puke tank (drag racing terms) most importantly, if you run e85 or any kind of alcohol fuel, it literally breaks down oils, the shit that ends up in your tank its not pretty. sure vent the sump, but from the intake side, to the TOP of your catch can. dont drain it back to the tank. 

 

my engine (25/30) loved high oil pressure, 8L sump, baffled, 7500rpm, 2.5L accusump, 1.2mm restrictors, vct blocked, drilled out oil drains in block and head, -12 rear head drain (to ex side)  2X -12 sump vents to catch can (intake side), baffled cam covers with 2X-12 to baffled catch can, all vented to atmosphere. use to spit hardly any thing, even after a full w.e or thrashing at power cruise or racewars etc.

7 hours ago, SSM said:

Thanks

So use the rear turbo return as a crankcase vent is no good?

I'm a bit concerned to have a return from the catch can to the oilpan.

 

[SimonR32]

14 minutes ago, ScreamerNewbie said:

do not dump the shit from your catch can back to the sump, theres a reason it its called a puke tank (drag racing terms) most importantly, if you run e85 or any kind of alcohol fuel, it literally breaks down oils, the shit that ends up in your tank its not pretty. sure vent the sump, but from the intake side, to the TOP of your catch can. dont drain it back to the tank. 

 

my engine (25/30) loved high oil pressure, 8L sump, baffled, 7500rpm, 2.5L accusump, 1.2mm restrictors, vct blocked, drilled out oil drains in block and head, -12 rear head drain (to ex side)  2X -12 sump vents to catch can (intake side), baffled cam covers with 2X-12 to baffled catch can, all vented to atmosphere. use to spit hardly any thing, even after a full w.e or thrashing at power cruise or racewars etc.

 

Exactly what is the difference between the oil in the cam covers and the catch can? Does it magically change it's properties when it travels through the line between the cam covers and the catch can?

[ScreamerNewbie]

16 minutes ago, SimonR32 said:

Exactly what is the difference between the oil in the cam covers and the catch can? Does it magically change it's properties when it travels through the line between the cam covers and the catch can?

no man, it "magically" changes properties when it leaks past the rings into the combustion chamber where the enthanol/alcohol is forced into also.  ill find the pics and show you the shit that comes from a catch tank when ethanol as effected it. 

[ScreamerNewbie]

Quote

 

Okay so here, this is my can and cam cover lines after a full weekend of racewars, 400m 800m and 1000m of flat out high rpm, car took a hammering all w.e, i drained under 50ml out of my tank. which showed, a very minor amount of water (from condensation) sitting on top of oil which you can see below has been effected by ethanol. you can even SMELL the ethanol in the catch tank. (i also drained my sump to find 8L of perfect quality oil which i put back in the car). 

that oil is the penrite 10 tenths racing oil which is compatible for alcohol and ethanol fuel, but you can clearly see the oil has been badly effected by the ethanol.

i dont know, what do i care if you decide its a good idea to drain you shit back to your sump, doesnt effect me, but why? what is the point in draining a couple ml or a couple hundred ml??? at most if its really bad?? back to your sump? whats the point? what do you get out of that? nothing. so why even risk it?

Edited October 18, 2017 by ScreamerNewbie

[SimonR32]

2 hours ago, ScreamerNewbie said:

no man, it "magically" changes properties when it leaks past the rings into the combustion chamber where the enthanol/alcohol is forced into also.  ill find the pics and show you the shit that comes from a catch tank when ethanol as effected it. 

Once again, how is that different to the oil/mist in the cam covers that drains back to the sump?

[SimonR32]

2 hours ago, ScreamerNewbie said:

Okay so here, this is my can and cam cover lines after a full weekend of racewars, 400m 800m and 1000m of flat out high rpm, car took a hammering all w.e, i drained under 50ml out of my tank. which showed, a very minor amount of water (from condensation) sitting on top of oil which you can see below has been effected by ethanol. you can even SMELL the ethanol in the catch tank. (i also drained my sump to find 8L of perfect quality oil which i put back in the car). 

that oil is the penrite 10 tenths racing oil which is compatible for alcohol and ethanol fuel, but you can clearly see the oil has been badly effected by the ethanol.

i dont know, what do i care if you decide its a good idea to drain you shit back to your sump, doesnt effect me, but why? what is the point in draining a couple ml or a couple hundred ml??? at most if its really bad?? back to your sump? whats the point? what do you get out of that? nothing. so why even risk it?

The question is, is that ethanol affecting the oil or water condensation? and is that straight after driving the car or because you left warm oil sit in the catch can?

Also nice and dandy for straight line stuff, that's never been the issue... Trying hammering around a Racetrack and you will see why it's better to have oil from the catch can drain back into the sump rather than no oil in the sump.

I'm also going to take a bet that my car not only survives Racewars and Powercruise weekends (and years and years of them) but also is more than happy to lap tracks running 2 bar with no issues