Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Has anyone seen or used mines cam cover baffles with no foam ?

i Have mines cam cover baffles but without foam (was like that since previous owner built the engine) and also my friends uncle imported a 34 Gtr from japan built by JUN many years ago and he said his was the same

pros and cons of this ? Should I be adding the foam in there ? 

Also im not sure if the stock metal gauze/mesh is in there either

Well, obviously, if you have nothing in there to keep the mist in the engine the mist is going to flow to your catch can setup and you will have to deal with an increased amount of oil - whatever that "dealing with" entails.

They should have foam in them and if they don't they will still "work", for a given smaller value of the term "work".

  • Thanks 1
  • 11 months later...

Well.... Dyno just finished on my forged rb25det build. Fitted a blanking plug on the centre hole and left the other 2.

It now has noisy lifters above 5K rpm and gets worse as it revs. Oil pressure is spot on. My tuner said to never use restrictors in a hydraulic lifter head as he has seen this before... 

Lesson learnt, never take advice from this page without discussing with professionals.... FFS.... 

21 minutes ago, Nate NRP said:

Fitted a blanking plug on the centre hole and left the other 2.

I can't see that as a recommended option in "the table"

 

21 minutes ago, Nate NRP said:

My tuner said to never use restrictors in a hydraulic lifter head as he has seen this before

How does he explain why so many other people (including me) have fitted restrictors / blocked oil feeds, and haven't had noise problems?

 

 

1 hour ago, GeeDog said:

I can't see that as a recommended option in "the table"

 

How does he explain why so many other people (including me) have fitted restrictors / blocked oil feeds, and haven't had noise problems?

 

 

Did exactly what it says on the table. Have you always been a flamin mongrel or do you still have bits of your mum stuck to you from birth? 

Screenshot_20190315-185603.png

8 minutes ago, Nate NRP said:

Have you always been a flamin mongrel or do you still have bits of your mum stuck to you from birth? 

 

Which part of the table did you follow? I can't see any of the options that say to leave the rear feed as is.

You'll make lots of friends here dude - good luck with your engine..... FYI my mother died a few months ago - so lets hope we meet up one day and I'll rip whatever is left of your mother off you, you fcking arsehole.

Edited by GeeDog
  • Like 1
  • Haha 3

That table would probably be better with 1.25 restrictors instead of blocked off for the standard pump cases.  That would include the N1 pump, because it's really not that much larger (if at all) than a stocker.  Neos have the N1 pump, for example.

I used to sell restrictors and often for hydraulic lifters including my own RB30 with an N1 pump and external fed VVT ...think it was 2 x 1mm from memory but was years ago and my memory is fading.  Joe Kyle built the RB30.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, I'm getting oil come out of my catch can.

Its a 2.6, which was just recently built, after spinning a bearing at the track with an inferior oil control setup (small hi octane catch can and overfilled sump lol). 

- 9l sump baffled, with trap doors
- 1mm restrictor
- Hi octane cam cover baffles
- 5l baffled catch can setup  (2x breathers from the head, sump drain, sump vent and a big filter vented to atmo)
- Nitto head drain
- Nitto oil pump
- Nitto crank collar, with crack tested crank
- Custom oil cooler setup

Now the issue is, I'm getting oil coming out of the filter on the catch can. This even happens on regular drives with a pull here and there. I cant quite work out why, as the catch can is a decent size, is heavily baffled and it even has a drain. 

I don't like the fact oil is spilling out. Is there an issue with the breathing of the engine, or is it just a problem with where the filter is located?

image.thumb.png.0d19682d8b4d9f49f584cc3d6313e403.png

Edited by Darmanin10
  • Like 1

To help you diagnose - try putting a vacuum/pressure sensor on the sump and logging it.

You might find it is being pressurized - hence oil can't get back to the sump from catch can or rocker covers and fills the can. 

Also (what I can't quite see) you have two breathers to the catch can, and only one to atmo?  Consider making this larger otherwise the velocity of air out can be high and drag oil mist with it.

I was going to say the same things as R32 TT just did.  Pressure gauge hooked up to the breather vents, see what sort of pressure is in the system.  (OK, not same, similar.  He says measure at sump, and if the situation is bad the pressure down there will be higher than at top of engine).

As to the catch can, a single small vent to atmosphere may be restrictive relative to the volume of flow coming out of the engine and lead to pressurisation, high velocity through it and easy oil mist carry over.  The solution might be a 2nd catch can in series to try to give somewhere for the oil mist carryover to drop.  If that worked, I would plumb the exit back into turbo inlet to not breathe to atmosphere at all and the suction from the turbo would also help to reduce the back pressure.

It looks like it should.  It's certainly more than double the XS area of the 2 main inlets, so it should be less restrictive than the pipework leading to it.

Doesn't mean that the whole package isn't just being pushed too hard by excessively large amounts of blowby.  Probably should check that, as described above.

One other thing to check.    Are you absolutely sure that you haven't slightly overfilled the sump?

If it is just a little too full, more than you need then suddenly you have the crank churning up oil and frothing it up.. that will sit up in the rocker covers and be pushed out - the aeration makes more volume, which is turn makes it worse and gets churned up by the crank more.

Try taking a litre out and go for a drive.  (watch you oil pressure obviously, but a litre shouldn't hurt)

That catch can exit looks like plenty I would have thought.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...