Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[Unzipped Composites]

1 hour ago, SimonR32 said:

I don't have a dry sump but I probably should. If I cared more about the engine I probably would but it's a bottom of the ocean junker so it's not a huge concern. I get some concerns with pressure, it always stays above 50psi so at least there is oil there.

Is it too soon to bring up dry sumps being a stuff around in the first place

 

Didn't think I'd missed that little detail with your car, but I'm also still trying to figure out how you're cheating in your 59 second 'street car' ?

 

1 hour ago, fatz said:

I have a complet dry sump setup available for 5.5k if you want to do it properly

 

Thanks fatz, but I think I'll half-ass it and then come whinge about it on here if I have oil control problems; I've missed this forum for that.

[joshuaho96]

Something I've been a bit curious about is whether anyone has messed with the crossover hose. I would figure when the intake manifold is pulling vacuum you want all the fresh air to go in from the hot side, through the crankcase, and out the cold side. Then when the intake manifold is seeing boost, you want all flow from both the "cold side" and the "hot side" to go out to the pre-turbo intake so I imagine that's when you want the crossover hose to see flow. Supposedly this just has a restrictor on it. Has anyone tried bypassing/drilling the restrictor on this hose and putting a check valve on it instead?

Trying to come up with a list of things to do to get a ~300awkw, stock rev limit R33 GTR to not ventilate a block doing relatively light track work on pretty tame tires, probably no grippier than Michelin PS4S. I just want to have fun, not going for time attack or anything like that. Not filling the intake with oil would also be nice to have. Don't really want to go dry sump mostly for the packaging headaches, street use is going to be primary with just a few HPDE sessions.

[KiwiRS4T]

On 6/14/2020 at 7:10 PM, Unzipped Composites said:

Yeh I would have thought it would help for sure, and I do intend to vent the sump properly. 

 So I just wonder where the discrepancy comes in between that consensus, and what engine builders/machinists say is the way to do it. Is this thread out-dated? Or are the engine builders?

 

 

Where is the discrepancy apart from drilling out the oil returns? 

I didn't drill out the returns but I did fit oil restrictors,   a sump baffle, baffles in the cam covers and a couple of 20mm  sump breathers one to the top of the (first) catch can and one to the bottom to allow oil to return to the sump.  I had my engine out twice before I came to this point with problems and the foregoing  fixed it for good.

[KiwiRS4T]

On 6/15/2020 at 8:36 PM, joshuaho96 said:

 

Trying to come up with a list of things to do to get a ~300awkw, stock rev limit R33 GTR to not ventilate a block doing relatively light track work on pretty tame tires, probably no grippier than Michelin PS4S. I just want to have fun, not going for time attack or anything like that. Not filling the intake with oil would also be nice to have. Don't really want to go dry sump mostly for the packaging headaches, street use is going to be primary with just a few HPDE sessions.

For a list of things to do see my above post or read the last half or so of the  this thread.

[Unzipped Composites]

This is potentially a little bit off topic, but I'm trying to decide on what way to go with my oil pump and it doesn't feel worth starting a new thread. I'm sure I know the answers I'm going to get already, but I really just want to get some feedback on the choice.

 

What would people recommend for a dedicated track car with a ~600hp Neo, I'm tossing up between a Nitto pump, OEM style billet gears in the stock N1 pump, or the Spool spline drive billet gears for the stock N1 pump. Obvs including a crank collar for each option. The Nitto pump feels like the 'obvious' choice given the power and the fact it's a dedicated track car - but are there serious disadvantages to the billet gears? Is the extra flow of the Nitto pump vs the N1 pump that crucial, or would I potentially be better spending the difference on an oil accumulator? And then spline driven billet gears vs the flat drive of the Nitto pump, is there a winner there? I know Nitto do their own spline gears for their pumps, but that is stretching the budget just a bit too far unfortunately. 

 

The car is being built for competitive Time Attack, but may do the odd bit of highly uncoordinated drifting. 

[iruvyouskyrine]

If it was my car I would just go straight to a spline drive kit (supertec proven product or possibly the new PRP item). 

Nitro pumps proven to work but I just think you can't beat the reliability of a properly setup spline system.

[Unzipped Composites]

10 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

If it was my car I would just go straight to a spline drive kit (supertec proven product or possibly the new PRP item). 

Nitro pumps proven to work but I just think you can't beat the reliability of a properly setup spline system.

 

This was pretty much my thoughts and what I was kind of leaning towards. Not a fan of the Spool spline drive kits then? I must admit I feel a little bit suspicious, but its not like Spool have a bad reputation? 

[fatz]

Just billet gear the stock pump for a gtt and a ten litre sump ( if you know what the throttle does)

if your a drifter that has to use the limiter to be cool and have no throttle control go the nitto  pump

 

 

[Unzipped Composites]

I'll admit my throttle control needs some refinement, I'm a little light switchy with it. But never been one to sit on limiter. Really doubt the car will get used much for drifting. I'm not that into it, but my wife would like to try it. I can see us going to one drift school and never again haha, but you never know.

 

Thanks guys, I was leaning towards the billet gears so I feel affirmed and shall sleep peacefully after hitting the order button.

[TurboTapin]

What exact size are people drilling out their 5x head/block oil return passages too? I've read a variety of different sizes in this thread and elsewhere and want to confirm. Already did the head at 10mm as there's a lot of material but want to confirm for the block as the walls look thinner. 

 

Thanks

 

 

Edited September 12, 2021 by TurboTapin

[TurboTapin]

On 9/12/2021 at 3:49 PM, TurboTapin said:

What exact size are people drilling out their 5x head/block oil return passages too? I've read a variety of different sizes in this thread and elsewhere and want to confirm. Already did the head at 10mm as there's a lot of material but want to confirm for the block as the walls look thinner. 

 

Thanks

 

 

Anyone? I've read 9mm, 9.5mm and 10mm. 

[Shoota_77]

On 01/12/2021 at 12:00 PM, TurboTapin said:

Anyone? I've read 9mm, 9.5mm and 10mm. 

Anything is going to be an improvement over standard but is 0.5 of a mm really going to make a difference?  I spent HOURS hand die grinding all of the end head oil drains and their corresponding block passages to increase the size of those and there is a lot greater than 0.5 to 1.0mm of difference achievable in them.

Have a look at what a brand new head straight from Nissan looks like pre-machining (the original heads are better than this stock)-

 

Compared to after a few laborious hours with the die grinder-

 

Can you now see how little difference 1.0mm will make in the other galleries relative to doing this?

My recommendation - go to 9mm and then spend a heap of time like I did on the outer galleries/passages and you will be a mile ahead of stock.

[joshuaho96]

Yet another thread bump because I want to talk about this:

The general gist that this guy found for a MK7 Golf GTI is that by adding a venturi from a 2022 Tiguan he managed to pull crankcase vacuum far more reliably under boost which effectively stopped oil consumption on his engine in track conditions. An earlier video details how that venturi works:

Basically one port is atmospheric vent, one port goes to a boost source, and the last port goes to the crankcase vent. There's a lot of discussion on here about scavenge pumps and all that fun stuff, why not try to replicate that by pulling some energy off the compressor?

There is one catch though and that is that the PCV diaphragm on these cars appears to completely block off airflow from the intake when there is enough crankcase vacuum. This contrasts with the RBs where there is basically nothing stopping vacuum from the intake from sucking a big gulp of oil if it gets into the crankcase vent.

Edited February 24 by joshuaho96