Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[BoostdR]

Correct. Not sure if it would be adequate, but its certainly better then nothing. No solid stream of oil should go up it as its sitting at the base of the sump rails which is well above oil level.

I've tried all of these combo's. Only way to fix this properly is to reduce the block to head restrictor size. .9mm was perfect for my reinmax oil pump on my rb32/26 I've also done the hi octane back of head to sump drain, which is useless. You can make it work though by using a Hobbs switch activated scavenger pump to force the oil back to the sump. The VDO pump does the job.

[britz1]

i have spent ages reading this thread... i was just looking to see just howmuch is to much blowby

i have a forged stagea rb25 botom end with a rb26 head... making 600hp atw with e85

i have had problems with my machining and the cylinder to bore clearance is too big... near 5 tho.... long story but yer the rings arent sealing properly and im getting blowby

oil system is hks rwd sump 10L, Jun oil pump, Jun Drive Collar,mines cam cover baffles, drilled oil returns and 1.2mm tomei restrictor in head and the other 2 blocked off

-12 breathers to 5L catch can with foam baffeling and a VDO scavenge pump off the catch can.

I recently tryed fitting a -10 line from the VCT drain bung to the catch can to try and vent some of the crank case pressure but it did not help..

I only have one small kn filter on the catch can (-12 size) could this not be helping... should i have more breathers..

Edited June 12, 2013 by britz1

[kitto]

I would start with a leak down test to see just how much each cylinder is / is not sealing and go from there.

Oil setup seems fairly good though. So its filling the catch can with oil?

[KiwiRS4T]

Blowby is too much when you blow the dipstick out and/or you have oil shooting out of the top of the engine. Have you done a compression test and/or leakdown test? If they are miles out you need to rebuild the motor. To alleviate the symptoms you should have picked up from your reading of particularly the latter section of the thread that your restrictor is too big and that the best way to relieve crankcase pressure is with a vent as high as possible in the inlet side of the sump - preferably going to a catch can. I have two x 20mm hoses from the sump in my RB30 - one to the top of the catch can and the other to the bottom (acts as a return for when oil is blown out). My catch can doesn't have a breather filter it has a large hose going to the air intake.

The problem usually only happens after long bursts at WOT (so on the track).

[britz1]

yer its a drift car so all it sees is mashed pedal... it may be my catch can design... its my own

Next step is to install a rear head equalizer and sump vents soo motor out for the 3rd time...

Edited June 12, 2013 by britz1

[KiwiRS4T]

Forget about the rear head fitting whatever you call it.

[dkbcleaner]

i have had problems with my machining and the cylinder to bore clearance is too big... near 5 tho.... long story but yer the rings arent sealing properly and im getting blowby

At what thou piston to bore clearance with an rb26 does it start to be a problem with blowby if using high silicone content jap pistons ie hks tomei ect?

[Dan_J]

wondering if oil temps will rise if the oil breathers are somewhat restricted?

i've removed the baffle on the rb20 covers, added steel wool wrapped in fine alloy mesh, installed baffle and resealed

Edited July 9, 2013 by Dan_J

[DILMA]

not sure if its been mentioned but where can i buy these restrictors. looking for a blank off one (can make this easy enough i spose) but need a 1 or 1.1mm for my rb25 can only find tomei 1.5 mm. thanks

[KiwiRS4T]

not sure if its been mentioned but where can i buy these restrictors. looking for a blank off one (can make this easy enough i spose) but need a 1 or 1.1mm for my rb25 can only find tomei 1.5 mm. thanks

From me - (possibly elsewhere)- have blank, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5

[r33_racer]

I usually just use a m8 grubscrew and drill whatever hole size I want in it in the lathe and then drill and tap the two feed holes to suit. But if you don't have the equipment then its probably cheaper to use premade restrictors from KiwiRS4T.

[fatz]

just seeing if anyone has done this( for rb26's with decent blow by)

I have a weldon external oil pump(same as this)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weldon-High-Temperature-Oil-Pump-Kit-12V-30GPH-K9200-A-/330949265449?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0e1d0829&vxp=mtr

it’s a bit big so I can use it for something else and run this instead

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Setrab-Oil-Scavenge-Pump-Turbo-Oil-Return-Pump-12V-17-311-/111037307067?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19da56d8bb&vxp=mtr

I will still run my current twin catch can arrangement

Plumb a extra dash 10 in at the bottom of my fake nismo catch can

Have the haltech switch the pump on when the car revs over 5k ( eg when the engine having problems draining oil due to the blow by)

And the pump returns it to the sump

Just seeing what everone thinks first

Added bonus would be not having to empty my catch can setup after every session and I can use the full capability ( full rev range) of the engine

[SimonR32]

just seeing if anyone has done this( for rb26's with decent blow by)

I have a weldon external oil pump(same as this)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weldon-High-Temperature-Oil-Pump-Kit-12V-30GPH-K9200-A-/330949265449?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0e1d0829&vxp=mtr

it’s a bit big so I can use it for something else and run this instead

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Setrab-Oil-Scavenge-Pump-Turbo-Oil-Return-Pump-12V-17-311-/111037307067?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19da56d8bb&vxp=mtr

I will still run my current twin catch can arrangement

Plumb a extra dash 10 in at the bottom of my fake nismo catch can

Have the haltech switch the pump on when the car revs over 5k ( eg when the engine having problems draining oil due to the blow by)

And the pump returns it to the sump

Just seeing what everone thinks first

Added bonus would be not having to empty my catch can setup after every session and I can use the full capability ( full rev range) of the engine

I have been looking into similar options because it is a pain in the ass every session draining the oil from the catch can... Was looking at the VDO pumps but didn't like them because hose end fittings, those ones look much better... Interesting

[scotty nm35]

I have one of these I may be able to sell to someone, http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Rear-Mount-Turbo-Oil-Gear-Pump-12v-Heavy-Duty-12-volt-Scavenge-Replace-STS/150768513335?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D9084653915329580858%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D111037307067%26

It is a little noisy for the rear mount application I am using it with, it would be great for quickly emptying the catch can though. You can easily get BSP to dash fittings for it.

I am going with the VDO instead. Hopefully quieter for the street.

[SimonR32]

I have been looking into similar options because it is a pain in the ass every session draining the oil from the catch can... Was looking at the VDO pumps but didn't like them because hose end fittings, those ones look much better... Interesting

Also, question regarding pumps like this... Says it pumps 1-2 gallons per minute, realistically I need mine to pump about 300ml per minute so how do they run if they are getting starved or low flow while running?

Does it chew them out or are they happy with being lubed by the engine oil?

[scotty nm35]

As long as there is a breather, or the ability to suck air through the pump without building vacuum it will be fine. Gear pumps are very reliable as long as they are lubricated.

[fatz]

Also, question regarding pumps like this... Says it pumps 1-2 gallons per minute, realistically I need mine to pump about 300ml per minute so how do they run if they are getting starved or low flow while running?

Does it chew them out or are they happy with being lubed by the engine oil?

Yea thus why I was thinking tell the haltech to only turn the pump on when the sensors read greater than 5k rpm and 15 psi as that's when the issue is there

[SimonR32]

Yea thus why I was thinking tell the haltech to only turn the pump on when the sensors read greater than 5k rpm and 15 psi as that's when the issue is there

Can get Vipec to do the same, I think my revs are always above 5000rpm during a lap, the boost as a condition is a good idea as well

[KiwiRS4T]

I have fixed the spewing oil everywhere problem on my RB30/25 and based on my experience this is what I would do on an RB26:

Fit 1.0mm oil restrictor. Drill out oil returns to 10mm and relieve all oil returns. Fit Mines baffle kits to cam covers.

Install 2 fittings to sump as high as possible run one hose to the top (this is a pressure relief - may also blow some oil) of an at least 2L catch can and the other to the bottom (as a drain). Also vent your cam covers to this catch can (should be very little comes out of them). Then instead of a filter on top of the catch can run a pipe to either another catch can or an oil/air separator and what comes out of that should be fine to pipe into the turbo intake - or if you prefer to a couple of LARGE airfilters. This should deal to your problems (don't bother with fitting on back of head). The second catch can will need to be emptied but not very often.

Also (not directly related) minimum baffle kit for sump - better large capacity sump - better still accusump.

just seeing if anyone has done this( for rb26's with decent blow by)

I have a weldon external oil pump(same as this)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weldon-High-Temperature-Oil-Pump-Kit-12V-30GPH-K9200-A-/330949265449?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0e1d0829&vxp=mtr

it’s a bit big so I can use it for something else and run this instead

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Setrab-Oil-Scavenge-Pump-Turbo-Oil-Return-Pump-12V-17-311-/111037307067?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19da56d8bb&vxp=mtr

I will still run my current twin catch can arrangement

Plumb a extra dash 10 in at the bottom of my fake nismo catch can

Have the haltech switch the pump on when the car revs over 5k ( eg when the engine having problems draining oil due to the blow by)

And the pump returns it to the sump

Just seeing what everone thinks first

Added bonus would be not having to empty my catch can setup after every session and I can use the full capability ( full rev range) of the engine

[XRATED]

I wouldn't be using a transfer pump to pull blow by or vapor.

Check this out: http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=17200