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Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

What I have figured out from the other side of the world is. Is this thread needs to be more foused. People on this topic should face couple of facts even though they may not like it. For circuit racing there is just nothing better than a dry sump setup and you can sit here and talk all ya want about taking long left hand turns or rights for that matter. At the end of the day if this thread was to advise people in prioritizing there results based on there investments and time spent on there motors as well as how they use it, it would help 90 % of the people that read this thread and stop at page 30, and under. Prioritize the info and save time and money. It reminds me of the 90 -10 rule in life 90 % of the people making 10% of the money and 10% of the people making 90% of the money. It relates to almost everything in life. It even goes for hp goals. Wow. Funny how people react to just opions here. Im one of them.

Everyone knows that dry sump is the best and that modifying RBs to produce twice to four times their design power brings a range of problems - this thread is dedicated to overcoming the oiling problems for those who can't afford/don't need a dry sump and as far as I am concerned it has succeeded.

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iruvyouskyrine
iruvyouskyrine

Whoops, yes i did mean catch can, corrected it now. Yes i understand that now. The two goals are to reduce the amount of oil entering the head, and equalize crankcase pressure. The oiling issue is s

fatz
fatz

less thinking more doing shit that works in the getto Dash ten on pasengers side Two dash 12 on the drivers side, angles and spaced so as not to hit shit and be able to tighten the f**ker up note

SimonR32
SimonR32

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can. This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stoc

Posted Images

SSM Enthusiast

SSM

Posted
Posted (edited)

The more I read the more confused I get. And I can't seem to find what I'm looking for.

I have stripped down my RB26 now and it is being buildt as we speak. Parts I have is:

-Late model R32 crank with long nose

-JUN oil pump

-JUN oilpan baffle

-1.2mm oil restrictor

If I do this:
-Drill the return galleries to 10mm both in the head and the block

-Make the entry to the galleries smoother

-Mine's or Hi-Octane rocker baffles

And as for the catch can:

-AN10/12 from rocker cover to top of catch can

-AN10 from top of catch can to oil pan. (ABOVE OR UNDER OIL LEVEL?)

-AN10 from bottom of catch can to oil pan. ABOVE OR UNDER OIL LEVEL?

Have I gotten everything correct then for building a RB26 that will last?
I'm driving the car manly on the road, but when I'm on the track I drive pretty fast. So I'm building it as a trackcar.


EDIT: Spec will be stock rebuild bottom end with all balanced internals. 6Boost manifold, BorgWarned 7064 EFR .92AR turbo and stand alone engine management system. Aiming for around 340kw at the flywheel.

Edited by SSM
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

^^^what he said...and you need to vent your catch can preferably to the turbo intake. if you find you are getting oil in that line (I didn't) you can insert another catch can or a Nismo type oil/air separator in that line.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Well, im willing to do some stuff I've never tried before as well. I just finished up a head i did myself. I am now thinking of drilling out/open up the oil return hole out for better flow. And the ones at the rear of the head will be cleaned up. Any suggestions here. Nothing was wrong with this motor. Im doing a full stock rebuild. But will push the motor with single turbo, 550cc injectors power FC. the bottom end will be all stock but have ACL race bearings new rings restrictor stock new oil pump, n1 water pump. MLS head gasket.

I have made up my mind to fix my gts4 chassis that i crash. I have attched a photos of the head and the chassis im fixing myself. Sorry if im of topic a bit here but this is an opportunity to see if all of us can collectively make some decisions to control the oil issues in a rb26. I have also repaired my damage Racefab oil pan. Photo attached as well.

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djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Suggestions.

Use a fairly blunt drill bit.

Different returns may need different size bits - I cant remember one of the rear ones gets awful close to the spring seat.

Clean, clean and clean it afterwards.

Don't bother with the Mines baffles.

Put some dash fittings in the sump for breathing/oil returns.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

does anyone have any pictures of the inside of their catch can? it would be good to see what chambers and fillings people have used when doing their catch cans.

Build it like a cyclone.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=cyclone+oil+air+separator&safe=active&sa=X&biw=1600&bih=719&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ei=iZNSVYb-NMi3oQTsvICYAQ&ved=0CDQQsAQ

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've been researching catch cans for a while and you have now convinced me to try the E39 M5 oil catch cans. I am buying a right and left one to try out of the valve covers with returns to the pan for my car. They are cheap enough to try at $40 USD shipped and seem well designed.

I'll keep everyone updated.

Here is what they look like.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DE93-USA---E39-BMW-M5&diagId=11_2653

Edited by HarrisRacing
HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looks nice but no idea where you are going to find the room to fit two of them.

They are relatively small. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img19/5919/oilug.jpg

I will start with just one of them. It will be returned to one of my oil pan fittings (I welded 2 -10 AN fittings into the left side of the oil pan) and will catch any "slugs" of oil that may come out of the valve covers and drain the oil back to the oil pan. I will then pipe the vapor outlets to a standard catch can and have my turbo piping pull off of that. The other oil pan AN fitting will be routed to the top of the catch can as well for imporved breathing. I'll start with just one of these, but we will see how it flows first. The second will be added later should I decide to change.

This is basically a cheaper replacement to the NISMO oil separator. I will still use a catch can, but this should knock out the majority of any oil slugging issues and return to the pan.

As far as leaks, it's plastic and has only one joint at the top of it. I am not installing a BMW engine ;)

Edited by HarrisRacing
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Be very interested to see what is inside the thing if at all possible. If it is straight forward would be easy enough to knock one up out of aluminium and fit it in the place of the Nismo can - the inside of which is just a deflector plate, basically.

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i467/mach-schnell/M5OS.jpg

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/cyclone_plan.cfm

Be very interested to see what is inside the thing if at all possible. If it is straight forward would be easy enough to knock one up out of aluminium and fit it in the place of the Nismo can - the inside of which is just a deflector plate, basically.

Basic cyclonic separator design. Seen them used and designed in the oilfield as well.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

There is a range of these made for the WRX - should be able to be copied for less:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/S2-Industries-AIR-OIL-Separator-Subaru-WRX-STI-VERSION-AOS-/151677359830?hash=item2350acd6d6&vxp=mtr

$_12.JPG

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Well, im willing to do some stuff I've never tried before as well. I just finished up a head i did myself. I am now thinking of drilling out/open up the oil return hole out for better flow. And the ones at the rear of the head will be cleaned up. Any suggestions here. Nothing was wrong with this motor. Im doing a full stock rebuild. But will push the motor with single turbo, 550cc injectors power FC. the bottom end will be all stock but have ACL race bearings new rings restrictor stock new oil pump, n1 water pump. MLS head gasket.

I have made up my mind to fix my gts4 chassis that i crash. I have attched a photos of the head and the chassis im fixing myself. Sorry if im of topic a bit here but this is an opportunity to see if all of us can collectively make some decisions to control the oil issues in a rb26. I have also repaired my damage Racefab oil pan. Photo attached as well.

Marcus check out my build thread, this should show you what you need to do to your block and head to improve your oil return- http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414784-shootas-r33-gt-r-rb3026/page-4 get a long shank die grinder bit, makes it a lot easier to get right in there.

  • 4 weeks later...
fatz Grand Master

fatz

Posted
Posted

updating my twin tank arangement

just a bigger second tank located where the washer bottle is

same drain and same breather setup

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post-219-0-11109100-1434100909_thumb.jpg

will be turning on the scavenge pump as well

also opted for a accusump as i have noticed drops in oil pressure on left handers at 1.3-5g

post-219-0-36419400-1434101045_thumb.jpg

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