Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[Leroy Peterson]

Russman (WTAC 2013) was having oil issues when braking. RacePace baffled sump wasnt enough, so went Accusump and it sorted the issue (for time attack purposes anyway).

[fatz]

Yup same track same issue

 

accusump fixed

[djr81]

Going to give this a try to see if it helps with the oil puke.

Air Cyclone.pdf

[SimonR32]

On 10/21/2016 at 11:44 AM, djr81 said:

Going to give this a try to see if it helps with the oil puke.

Air Cyclone.pdf

Have you vented your sump yet?

[djr81]

Yeah just the catch can itself is less than ideal so need a tidy up.  The things has a Nismo can on it as a hangover from ages ago and I was just going to replace that with the cyclone.

[burn4005]

I'm using a couple of those cyclone things inside my catch can as a vapour recovery system. seem to work well.

Im using plastic OEM BMW ones from a BMW V8 X5 engine..  alternatively, there are ones from an M5 S62 V8 engine,part number is 11151406788 but they're MUCH more expensive for a little plastic thing (///M Car Tax)

cheap from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Oil-Separator-Crankcase-Ventilation-Valve-for-E52-E53-X5-Z8-4-4i-4-6is-Alpina-11151705237/32695549568.html

Edited October 24, 2016 by burn4005

[The Mafia]

I could 3D print those

[Darmanin10]

I assume fitting an accusump would mean fitting it to the sump, so would therefore be an engine out job to fit. 

How would a setup like this work?

Cam baffle plates
oil/air separator
catch can, with vent to atmo and a drain/vent for the sump, through the dipstick? like this one
http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1634&zenid=iupk7dnkvs96376b6d8tfnppc2

 

 

Edited October 24, 2016 by Darmanin10

[KiwiRS4T]

27 minutes ago, Darmanin10 said:

I assume fitting an accusump would mean fitting it to the sump, so would therefore be an engine out job to fit. 

How would a setup like this work?

Cam baffle plates
oil/air separator
catch can, with vent to atmo and a drain/vent for the sump, through the dipstick? like this one
http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1634&zenid=iupk7dnkvs96376b6d8tfnppc2

 

 

Nope dip stick won't do it. Read the thread (the last half should do you).

[Darmanin10]

11 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Nope dip stick won't do it. Read the thread (the last half should do you).

Yeah i have read from about page 50 onwards and understand what I am proposing isn't the best setup, however i dont plan on pulling the engine just to fit oil restrictors and sump vents. When I eventually do pull the engine, it will be for more than just oil control mods.  Extended and baffled sump, proper catch can setup etc will be done then.

For now however, I just want to setup something basic, that along with overfilling sump, limiting revs and limiting consecutive hot laps at the track, can prolong the engines life as much as possible.

So dipstick just a waste of time?

[KiwiRS4T]

19 hours ago, Darmanin10 said:

 

So dipstick just a waste of time?

No,  just sub-optimal but probably better than nothing. And I presume you are overfilling the sump by up to a litre (to guard against oil starvation).

[thebe]

Hello all from Finland! 

First of all an awesome thread! I've read the whole thing and couldn't find an answer to my problem. I'm building rb30/25 with s1 head and going to use the rb25 oil pan aswell. I have a set of universal tomei baffle plates with trap doors. How should I fit them to get the most out of them? Gonna aim for ~500hp (refreshed/balanced stock bottom) and going to use the car (r33) mostly on street with an occasional drag/track day. I've been thinking about this kind of setup:

- 25 row oil cooler with mocal thermostatic plate (an10 lines)

-rb25 oil pump with reimax gears, external vct feed

- an12 valve cover breathers to a atmo vented catch can.

- two an10 (or an12) sized oil pan lines to a different atmo vented catch can (one line top of can, other to the bottom). Fitted to sump as high as possible to the inlet side.

 

Now I was told as the car is mostly a streeter I dont really need an extended oil pan. So I was wondering what would be the best way to install the baffle plates for little extra peace of mind? 

Dont think I can fit all 4 of them to the stock pan so how would using 2 work out? Do you think something like this would help keeping oil at pickup?

Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks 

 

[KiwiRS4T]

Never seen one of those kits. I got an RB26 kit to fit to my Stagea and it was pretty straightforward. If that is a so-called universal kit there could well be some spare parts you can't use. Fit them as best you can and slosh some water around to see what it does.

[thebe]

Hi and thanks for the reply.

I have this set: http://www.rhdjapan.com/tomei-oil-pan-baffle-plate-universal-type.html/URL]

I guess I'll just have to try how using only two plates will work. The thing Im worried about using only two plates is that not enough oil will get to the pickup. Only 4 doors and in 2 directions where the oil can enter the box...

[thebe]

http://www.rhdjapan.com/tomei-oil-pan-baffle-plate-universal-type.html

Fixed the hotlink. Stupid phone messed it up. If anyone has any ideas on how to do these baffles it'd be greatly appreciated.

Or perhaps pics or something about how people have done baffles on rb25det? Havent been able to find any really. 

Thanks

[iruvyouskyrine]

I got custom baffles and trapdoors done on my RB30 sump. I will find my pics and get back to you mate.

FYI. If I remember correctly you can't use the 25 sump on the RB30 as it fouls. You need an RB30 sump.

[thebe]

Fouls, really? Damn. I was told my pan would work and havent actually measured it, damn. Havent really seen any writings on the interwebs of it fouling either, guess I have some measuring to do.

If you could get some pics that's be amazing! Thanks mate!

[-S-]

So i hesitated to post due to no backed up facts but anyway I just did a compression test and these were the numbers. Stock motor.

P1 - 200
P2 - 200
P3 - 200
P4 - 190
P5 - 220
P6 - 190

And I'm still filling up my catch can easily. .. can i conclude that its just too much oil to the head? Initially i was worried it was due to piston rings ... any thoughts on this? But I'm sure glad the numbers were ok...

[-S-]

So i hesitated to post due to no backed up facts but anyway I just did a compression test and these were the numbers. Stock motor.

P1 - 200
P2 - 200
P3 - 200
P4 - 190
P5 - 220
P6 - 190

And I'm still filling up my catch can easily. .. can i conclude that its just too much oil to the head? Initially i was worried it was due to piston rings ... any thoughts on this? But I'm sure glad the numbers were ok...

P6 is 150 and not 190...

[GTSBoy]

220 psi is a seriously high number, representing more compression ratio than you are supposed to have.  Therefore rings must be wet.  This shouldn't really have anything to do with too much oil in the head.  It's oil in the cylinder here that would be the issue.

 

I call shenanigans on the accuracy of the comp guage.