Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[Duncan]

250 is a bargain for drilling 10x holes about 200mm deep each, straight, through cast iron. It probably costs them that much in drill bits!

[sneakey pete]

Got to get block, have a machine, pay for workshop to ahve machine in, pay for consumables for machine (drills etc), pay for someone to mount up block to machine, pay for someone to oparate it for drilling.
That's where the costs come from

[czy18e]

Cool thanks. I feel better.

[czy18e]

What about what size oil restrictors for non neo 25 head with NO vct? It's not on the chart?

[czy18e]

N1 pump or better.

[KiwiRS4T]

2 hours ago, czy18e said:

What about what size oil restrictors for non neo 25 head with NO vct? It's not on the chart?

Its the middle column - RB25/20 no VVT

 

[czy18e]

Catch can.
Cam breather tank and dump breather tank.
-12 for sump
-10 for cams

[koukikidkramer]

Hey guys I'm doing my first rb25 build, rb25det head and block. I've been reading this thread for hours, super helpful. I understand with an rb25det vct head I leave the vct oil feed alone, block the middle and restrict the third. Okay now my question is I plan on going from hydraulic to solid lifters, so then do I restrict the front vct oil feed, block the middle and rear or what? i know the rb26 is solid lifters and the rear oil feed is blocked from factory, so the chart states restrict front oil feed and block rear. And do solid lifters rid of the vct? I'm a little lost there.

[djr81]

Rather than the stainless steel wool packed into a stocking has anyone tried sintered brass exhaust silencers (As seen on ebay and the like) to filter the oil.

I noticed that Mishimoto appear to use exactly that.

https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-2-port.html

Would be neater, surely?

[KiwiRS4T]

Sounds good. Pics when you have done it!

[Roy]

On 08/03/2017 at 4:38 PM, djr81 said:

Rather than the stainless steel wool packed into a stocking has anyone tried sintered brass exhaust silencers (As seen on ebay and the like) to filter the oil.

I noticed that Mishimoto appear to use exactly that.

https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-2-port.html

Would be neater, surely?

Just gave my secret away. They work damn well...just use the biggest bastard/s you can squeeze in

[djr81]

Ah good. I tried finding one from a pressure regulator/filter but they have all gone to some sort of synthetic stuff.  Have bought a handful off eBay and will have a crack.  Be interested to see how porous they are.

[Huzqld]

Hey guys I've had a good read of the last 10-15 pages but here goes.

ive got a rb25/30neo, it's a built motor with all the usual forged bits and pieces. 

Oil wise it has an ASR 8.5L sump, n1 pump with billet gears, all drains in the head were enlarged and cleaned up. From memory front oil feed is blocked and 1.2mm restrictor in the rear. Stock rb26 cam covers with 2 3/4 hoses to a small vented can..

Never had any issues with blow bye or anything on 20-25 psi street-drag or dyno.

Just recently fitted a water meth injection kit and running around 30psi, all good on dyno and street but at the drags it started pushing oil out the breathers (about 400ml each run).

Have done a comp test and leak down test and all looks good. 

I really don't want to have to pull the sump off. I have thought about pulling the head off and fitting a rear vent and tee'ing into the turbo drain (spool sells this kit). 

Just looking for some other opinions 

cheers 

[KiwiRS4T]

7 hours ago, Huzqld said:

I really don't want to have to pull the sump off. I have thought about pulling the head off and fitting a rear vent and tee'ing into the turbo drain (spool sells this kit). 

Just looking for some other opinions 

cheers 

I don't believe that will do anything but if you are hell bent on it go ahead and report back.

A cheaper option would be to put another 400ml in each run. You can decide whether to recycle what comes out or not.

The real fix is a couple of 1/2 in sump breathers with one draining back to the sump.

And ideally you have a 2L catch can properly baffled and vented to the turbo intake.

[89CAL]

I have mine like this. If I had to do it all again, I would probably do a separate drain port into the sump but I can't really be bothered now. Probably doesn't do much but its there

 

[Huzqld]

14 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

The real fix is a couple of 1/2 in sump breathers with one draining back to the sump.

And ideally you have a 2L catch can properly baffled and vented to the turbo intake.

Thanks mate, So don't worry about the head vent. And ideally the sump breathers to catch can are the go (which means engine out).

I was going to go a bigger catch can anyway.

If i was to tee into the turbo drain with a -10 or-12 and run that to top of a catch can would be of any help? 

[KiwiRS4T]

12 hours ago, Huzqld said:

If i was to tee into the turbo drain with a -10 or-12 and run that to top of a catch can would be of any help? 

Not the slightest.

[Huzqld]

Decided I'll pull the motor out and fit the sump breathers and drain back etc and a couple other things. While it's out is it worthwhile just to do the head vent/drain whatever you want to call it as well l. Or it's absolutely not needed and save the $200? 

[thebe]

Afaik the head "drain" works mostly as a sump breather. I dont think its needed if you fit proper sump breathers (and rocker cover breather setup).

[-S-]

Quick question. According to tomei ,

COMPATIBILITY NOTES:
- RB20, RB25: Solid type engines ONLY (not to be used on lash type RB20 & RB25 engines)

But seems like everyone is using it even on the s2 rb25det?