Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Kym,

As I keep telling you, you need to get it on a dyno, to see what is wrong, we are currently guessing what the problem is, we need to monitor alot of factors to tell you what to do. Yes those two things may help, but then again it could be related to something else.

See'ya:burnout:

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Standard bovs LEAK thats why we put after market ones on

Unless your gay then you just put one on that gos choooooooooooooooooo

Strich9 buddy! Dont stress about your Air fuel ratios man, I have to wash the back of my white line every 2nd day and shan gets watery eyes after a few mins of driving behind me, thats if i havent burnt his bonnet by then :D

Rev i got 250RWHP @ Myaree on 10psi pod and cat back, EBC lol

My last dyno at SSTs seemed very harsh i only got 286hp @ 16psi but partly due to turbo and timing issues

Steve... I kinda asked this when I was there last night but didnt get a chance to find out properly.... Are you able to tune my AVC-R on the dyno down there at SST??? I will need someone to do this after I have run my new clutch in ( Say in about a week or two's time )

Thanks

Little $$'s??? I've spent more money than most people who have done their fmic, I did buy a trust unit remember. The whole idea of the trust cooler was to improve intake temps in order to reduce pinging (and I can run 12-13psi all day everyday even in 30 degree heat) without the car pinging. Once I get this AF ratio sorted then I can start mucking around with the timing, like rev210 is.

Just to clear things up. Speedworks dont actually have a Dyno. The dyno belongs to Automotive Power Analysis and resides at JRT in Bentley.

As for Rob's figure? We were all scratching our heads on that one during the dyno day! It was a freak run which seemed a little out considering the other 30 cars done during the day produced their expected hp figures. Including mine.

I dont think the dyno is "high reading" as such. Perhaps a setting was incorrect, we did noticed that it being a hub dyno it was extremely sensitive to diff ratio settings and could calculate way out of whack if it was even slightly out.

Oh well, like VSpec says... just as long as you use the same dyno for your benchmarking, you cant go wrong :D

Red17

Its 273ps not hp. its about 270hp. We're not sure why the dyno read that figure, it was a crazy figure considering what was done to the car at the time. A supra also pulled an odd figure too and everyone else on the day seemed to pull normal figures. I'll be going down the drags sometime soonish and hope to be around the mid 13's.

giz01, the power is not as important as how it generates the power, now with the boost and FMIC I think rob should easily get a 13. Some cars with more power are getting slower times due to wheelspin and lag etc, so power is not always directly correlated to fast 1/4mile times.

See'ya:burnout:

"Dyno proven" is a bad mix of words. Dyno tuned or Dynotested

maybe. In the new issue of Perth street car there is a good

example, A Falcon "Dyno proven 502rwhp" STD internals?

and runs in the 12s on slicks mmmmm sounds suss hay.

On Tuesday I had a BIG Valiant 6Cyl non turbo or NOS

make 305rwhp with spectators here saying i tricked

the Dyno and was bull shitting them.

Last nite it ran 11.5@ 114mph full bodyed and 1400kgs

and a XB falcon road car on slicks 293rwhp 12.2sec.

The 1/4 mile should be used to see if your shop is fudging

power figs. "Dynos can lie"

"TRACK PROVEN" is the only true way of proven.

I agree steve.

After all the dyno is just part of the tuning process to get the cars real perfomance when doing the thing you love to do the most... racing!

I have found some tuners do the final dyno tune with the bonnet 'up'. This goes for power runs as well. Although there is certainly reasons of keeping the engine 'cool' for long periods of tune, the final tweaks and power run ought to be done with the lid down I reckon. At least I have asked this in the past- with some strange looks given but, I feel a better tune results.

I could be wrong but, the car doesnt get driven around with the bonnet up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
×
×
  • Create New...