Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all !

Am going to be ordered an LSD in April and dont want to get the wrong one ! :)

Car was originally non turbo (converted in japan) and has 3x2 bolt drive shafts.

Am I right to assume that it is a Non turbo Cefiro LSD. Kaaz make a freaking diff for everything so I have to make sure it is the right one.

Thanks.

Edited by konect
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110937-help-with-diff-purchase/
Share on other sites

i was reassured by henry at rms that if it was the wrong one then he would change it...

go by the plate in the car? or do nissan have the chassis number on file?

i dunno man i just had a guess and luckily got it right - manual turbo with abs, 1990, and it had 5bolt shafts... :S

good luck

Is it an R180 or R200? Was it converted from RB20E or RB20DE? Reason I ask is that mine was originally RB20E and came with a R180 open diff (3x2 bolts). Not much point in getting an lsd centre for that. if so i'd upgrade to an R200 with the thicker drive shafts. if it was a DE then its probably an R200.

I think you can tell by looking at where the flange thing bolts into the diff, I think the R180 is 5 bolt and the R200 is 6 bolts. (dont quote me on that) but also check ns.com.

I have the 180 converted to ATS lsd, and havent had any prob with the drive shafts, from what I know if you change it to the 200 then your drive shfts wont mat up to your hub as it requires larger hole for the spines.

double check though but I think thats right.

If your drive shaft breaks then just replace it. Cause really if your replacing the whole diff then its really only the casing left, your not going to break that.

I think you can tell by looking at where the flange thing bolts into the diff, I think the R180 is 5 bolt and the R200 is 6 bolts. (dont quote me on that) but also check ns.com.

I have the 180 converted to ATS lsd, and havent had any prob with the drive shafts, from what I know if you change it to the 200 then your drive shfts wont mat up to your hub as it requires larger hole for the spines.

double check though but I think thats right.

If your drive shaft breaks then just replace it. Cause really if your replacing the whole diff then its really only the casing left, your not going to break that.

Hubs and splines are the same.

Yeah dude I lied, R200 diff comes in both bolt formats, apparently the R200 has fins on the backing plate, one way to tell. What I did find when I bought a second hand rear hub from a 300zx was that the turbo hub has a thicker diameter driveshaft and non turbo smaller driveshaft so Was thinking if you upgrade or whatever, make sure that it is has the same driveshaft size.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it,  and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real
    • Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.
    • No clips on this one like the other connector. Only that red tab that I can push slightly up.
    • For any loom connector that has an obvious release that resists pushing far enough to unclip, just spray some silicone lube into it. You might also benefit from using a bent screwdriver or small pick to push in the right place at the right angle.
    • Hey all, I went to try and fix my indicator not canceling, but I couldn't remove the clockspring cable under the column so I could twist that green thin. Anyone know how to remove this cable? I see this red tab but didn't have any luck. I was thinking of unscrewing it but wasn't sure if it would cause issues. I did notice for my indicator stalk, 2 out of 3 cables were plugged in but the last cable wouldn't fit in the stalk. I'm getting it's for fog lights. It was like this when I originally pulled it off.  
×
×
  • Create New...