Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all !

Am going to be ordered an LSD in April and dont want to get the wrong one ! :)

Car was originally non turbo (converted in japan) and has 3x2 bolt drive shafts.

Am I right to assume that it is a Non turbo Cefiro LSD. Kaaz make a freaking diff for everything so I have to make sure it is the right one.

Thanks.

Edited by konect
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110937-help-with-diff-purchase/
Share on other sites

i was reassured by henry at rms that if it was the wrong one then he would change it...

go by the plate in the car? or do nissan have the chassis number on file?

i dunno man i just had a guess and luckily got it right - manual turbo with abs, 1990, and it had 5bolt shafts... :S

good luck

Is it an R180 or R200? Was it converted from RB20E or RB20DE? Reason I ask is that mine was originally RB20E and came with a R180 open diff (3x2 bolts). Not much point in getting an lsd centre for that. if so i'd upgrade to an R200 with the thicker drive shafts. if it was a DE then its probably an R200.

I think you can tell by looking at where the flange thing bolts into the diff, I think the R180 is 5 bolt and the R200 is 6 bolts. (dont quote me on that) but also check ns.com.

I have the 180 converted to ATS lsd, and havent had any prob with the drive shafts, from what I know if you change it to the 200 then your drive shfts wont mat up to your hub as it requires larger hole for the spines.

double check though but I think thats right.

If your drive shaft breaks then just replace it. Cause really if your replacing the whole diff then its really only the casing left, your not going to break that.

I think you can tell by looking at where the flange thing bolts into the diff, I think the R180 is 5 bolt and the R200 is 6 bolts. (dont quote me on that) but also check ns.com.

I have the 180 converted to ATS lsd, and havent had any prob with the drive shafts, from what I know if you change it to the 200 then your drive shfts wont mat up to your hub as it requires larger hole for the spines.

double check though but I think thats right.

If your drive shaft breaks then just replace it. Cause really if your replacing the whole diff then its really only the casing left, your not going to break that.

Hubs and splines are the same.

Yeah dude I lied, R200 diff comes in both bolt formats, apparently the R200 has fins on the backing plate, one way to tell. What I did find when I bought a second hand rear hub from a 300zx was that the turbo hub has a thicker diameter driveshaft and non turbo smaller driveshaft so Was thinking if you upgrade or whatever, make sure that it is has the same driveshaft size.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...