Jump to content
SAU Community

Black, Fast, Sexa > Not My Girlfriend


Recommended Posts

been searching for a car for.... way to long now.....

think i've found me a deal.... *evil maniacly obsessed bitch cackle*

cars a series 2 33-25t, black with awsome white on black 33R wing, no rust > NOT EVEN surface rust under the doors or in the boot seals

no scratches

nuda

otherwise all stock cept new cat and associated exhuast with great options including abs, no struts tho > spuen wnated the rear in it but eh

the problems i noticed besides the ugly azzzz rims, meh no real problem

the suspension was clunky and ruff as guts, it was lowered, the owner had no real clue about cars or he was succesfully playing dumb, he's owned for 3 months so no real issue so far (he imports as a side biZ) so yea im worried on hte playing dumb bit.

so when asking is this aftermarket suspension he said... dunno, so how can i tell if its just shited stock or otherwise?

every skyline i've ever seen has had coil overs :P

i couldnt see any leaks but it was raining and he'd been out with it so... yea im going to look it over and take a spin monday, if its what im thinking an no red flags on revs + you guyz dont freak me... i think im buiying

so other than that it was spooled by 1.5k on full by 3k,

was a hot bitch before we got there, like they'd taken it for a run before id come out or another test flight?

the biggest eye poper >_<

she never went over 1/4 oil pressure, sat there contanst the entire time on 1/4

every line ive been in sits on half

so 1/4 happens when hot an its flowing like crazy or ??

possible reason for low pressure ? leaks? f**k all oil ?

associated problems i may not forsee other than the obvious parts you suggest as broken?

basically for the price im thinking shes a "bargain" unless im n for serious $$$ like its 1 grand better than other cars i've been offered which are stock and cat backs with rims essentially the same but wrong colour

found like 3 cars... but this one i like the most other than shit suspension and this question mark over hte oil pressure

Link to comment
Share on other sites

get off the drugs bro.

lol, does sound abit like it.....

seriously though, is it in melb? where abouts? i'd been lookin for a black s2 for awhile, and i know there aint that many nice black ones on the market in melb....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

okok, :P

was trying to write up a post with the misses giving me the shits pushing me every 5 mins to get up so we could get going, she's an impatient bitch >_<

this her login btw heh, mines gts-4 dreamer

anyways point being

i just wanted to know a bit about oil pressure norms for your lines...

the rest was why... guess waste a time eh,

and naa this aint melb an i aint posting for competition :P

I've been looking for damed near a year now.... to godam long, finaly a decent price for a decent line... :P

so if its reading 1/4 on the gauge.... this is a sign that ? (posibilities give me a direction, something to look for)

low oil?

leaks?

happens when hot?

... seems logical that the pressure would go UP when its hot unless the fact that it flows better when its hotter unless that would reduce pressure? ... seems ilogical... am i way off or what?

same ol... looking for advice

cheers guyz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hl=oil+pressure

Just get the car checked out by NRMA (or other equivalent where you are) or take it to your mechanic.

"was a hot bitch before we got there, like they'd taken it for a run before id come out or another test flight?"

I would be concerned that they might have warmed it up before you got there, however it could of course be totally innocent reason for why the car has been run recently.

Typically though I think oil pressure is higher when engine is cold (thicker?). At idle it will be quite low I think around 1/4 maybe and pressure increases with revs. If it just sits around 1/4 all the time sounds like something is wrong, but doesn't neccessarily mean problem with the engine could just problem with oil pressure sender. Again, you can put your mind at ease by getting the car checked out before you buy it!

Good luck, hope you get a nice one after being so patient looking for one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

same with mine and all my gts-t's ive owned

sits on 1/4 and slowly goes up as you boot it.

On cold, it should be the next one up from 1/2

Try the car cold. It could be an absolute dog and a lot of problems may show

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would check it out when its cold, i have some stories about this and none of them good.

Paying someone to look it over for you is your best bet though and you can get mechanical insurance from them, as they cant spot everything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

okok, :D

was trying to write up a post with the misses giving me the shits pushing me every 5 mins to get up so we could get going, she's an impatient bitch :P

this her login btw heh, mines gts-4 dreamer

anyways point being

i just wanted to know a bit about oil pressure norms for your lines...

the rest was why... guess waste a time eh,

and naa this aint melb an i aint posting for competition :D

I've been looking for damed near a year now.... to godam long, finaly a decent price for a decent line... :D

so if its reading 1/4 on the gauge.... this is a sign that ? (posibilities give me a direction, something to look for)

low oil?

leaks?

happens when hot?

... seems logical that the pressure would go UP when its hot unless the fact that it flows better when its hotter unless that would reduce pressure? ... seems ilogical... am i way off or what?

same ol... looking for advice

cheers guyz

lol, i'm not competition, i already got mine...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i want get the nrma to check her out but I'm not sure how to work it out with the guy, like hey dude, lend me the car a few hours while i take it to get checked out?

guess il say hey, come with to get it checked out?

doubt he will, unless i give deposit, eh, guess il have to lay down some $$$ to check it out + the nrma price

il have a look when she's cold monday

il drop a line after

if i buy il drop a line on the 2 other cars, so someone can take advantage of my other hard work on finding good prices

IN SYDNEY :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dude with the NRMA inspection the nrma guy will go out onsite and take the car for a spin and check it out etc. So he doesn't need to lend it to you. Best 200 bux u will spend mate, i'd get it done could save u a shitload, if not at least give u piece of mind

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nah, nrma are expensive, and will probably want you to take the car to them for a comprehensive check or whatever they call it up there. just tell the guy you want it inspected, book a time and he'll take the car to them, you go and pick up the report, or they'll send it out to you in some way, shape or form. It's abit of a pain but i found that most people, if they want to sell the car and the car is good, dont really mind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would it be cheaper to just get a mechanic to look at it? Like maybe bring the car to the closest mechanic, or does it have to be a performance mechanic? Anyone know of a good one in the CBD (Sydney CBD :D)? I'm looking at CBD coz the BF starts early and finishes late so by the time he gets out all the tradies would have gone home, so looking at something that can be done during a lunch break. Basically just mainly need the oil pressure problem checked coz its the most worrying part other than that the rest of the car seems ok. How long does a mechanic inspection take?

BTW :( for all the replies so far :D

:(:(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That oil pressure sounds dodgy. You are looking at another 1-1.5k to get the suspension up to spec, if you buy it second hand. the fact that this guy sells the things and is acting dumb is another thing that sounds dodgy. No rust? Fresh paint job.

Stock suspension doesn't have any thread on the body, nor any adjustments on the top of the shock.

good luck with it dude, I know how it is when you have your heart set on something. Personally, If i'd waited a year for a car, I'd be prepared to wait another 6-8 weeks so I could freshly import something through one of the proper private importers. People importing as a "side business" always sound dodgy as to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well we've decided to go with an inspection, from another place that's cheaper than NRMA. Full vehicle inspection so body,interior and mechanical and only gonna cost us $189 rather than $400 that NRMA quoted us plus they drive out to the car. Hopefully doesnt come back with anything huge, we not expecting perfect condition considering it is a used car, just good enough where it wont cost us an arm, leg and a kidney to repair. Atleast we have another seller with another car that round about the same price to fall back on, just

incase :(

*crosses finger* for tomorrow's inspection!

:(:(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...