Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nuffin’ new

Been doing it for years in WA

Just drivin’ ‘round with no airfilter

The sand will do the job for you

Don’t have to buy nuffin’

Save money on airfilters

:O cheers :(

Thats Bullshit mate....

you can't use sand to port and polish your motor.. you can actually damage your engine doing this. ANY ONE READING THIS DO NOT TRY IT AS IT WILL DAMAGE YOUR ENGINE!!!!....

if your mate knew what he was talking about he would know you need to use a type of fortified wine commonly known as "PORT' for a propper job, you mix it 50/50 with petrol when you fill up. It's expensive but its how the pro's do it...

Not reccomended on the street as it adds lost of those octaine's and increases how much pounds you are running. My mate runs 10s in his VL with stock turbo and 93pounds boost and 8" exhaust

youse are all missing the point an' doin it the hard way. lissen to tha experts an buy wun of my kits off of ebay. fully sik, chromed port and polishing machines. can use gravel too, valves crush it and it gives ya a new valve job at tha same time. buy it now for $800, garunteed 120rwkw gain or refund. think it ova...

Nuffin’ new

Been doing it for years in WA

Just drivin’ ‘round with no airfilter

The sand will do the job for you

Don’t have to buy nuffin’

Save money on airfilters

cheers

Thats how we all dyno at 250rwkws with only a muffler change bov and a pod

james

  • 5 months later...

The HKS sand is good, but my tuner recommends the Tomei sand which has an additive that breaks down in the combustion chamber and ceramic coats the pistons. It still ports and polishes the head as well which makes it better value at only $300 for 25kg - much cheaper than a rebuild with forgies.

I've also heard on the rumour mill that adding icing sugar (not regular sugar) to a tank of fuel can increase injector flow as the tiny granuals pass through the injectors and have an abrasive effect. Seems feasable and I was told it you only need a pound of sugar to increase to 550cc of flow.

Not only this the sugar apparently increases octane just like the CSR ethanol fuel additive.

Can someone support this?

Ha ha ha awesome thread!!

Just a quick tip for anyone wanting a great CAI. Simply remove that annoying little spring lookin thing from your AFM (cant do anything important) and jam it full of snow. Chills the air and will even give everything a nice clean to boot!

  • 2 weeks later...

Norkam Beach Sand. Seriously guys, That's just old school.

At BBU engineering solutions, we look for the finest alternative to port an polishing.

First, we drink the port. We find this makes the job much better, then we get you, the car owner to drink a lot more port, so you'll always be happy when we give your car back to you (or one of my old ones if your car looks better than mine)

First, we select only the most rounded grains of sand. We have teams of specially trained mongooses (mongeese?) who are bred for their ability to recognise small round objects. We start them with marbles and work them down to grains the thickness of a human hair. Those that get it wrong starve, thus ensuring quality control for you, the customer.

We also add almodns crushed into a fine powder by the feet of mediteranian virgins to the mix, for than sweet almond oil scent that most engines are missing, but at BBU, it's this attention to detail that dets us far apart from other workshops.

Now, we have heard that some port and polishers out there do dodgy back yard jobs, putting the sand in through the air filter, or the oil cap. WRONG! think about it, all that sand going out the exhaust? It's only meant for gas!

Unlike these shonky backyard operators, BBU puts the sand INTO the exhaust pipe!

Yes, this revolutionary technique means that you can clean every nook and cranny of the engine! Here's how:

We load up a huge funnel and fill it with our mongoose selected sand. Occasionally bits of mongoose poo get into there, but that's OK, as it's organic material, and as we all know, organic material under heat and pressure makes oil, and your engine works on heat and pressure, so not only will the mongoose sand polish the engine, but the mongoose poo will grease and oil it up too!

Afte the funnel is attached, we start the car. Now, simple logic states that putting it in first and revving the engine will make the air go through the engine and out the exhaust. Since we want the reverse, we obviously put it in reverse.

This is where it can go wrong. Last month a mongoose got away and took off the handbreak, while our skilled technician was revving the engine and making BOV noises (an important part of the process) as a result, we ran over several skilled sand feeder executives, and a lemur that happened to be near by. Now we chock the wheels with bull elephant seals, avoiding further injury.

After this process, the sand is extruded from many points in the engine bay, such as the turbo, the oil cap, the dip stick, and the pod. We suggest that paople keep this sand and take it with them, otherwise our mongooses have been known to think that people do not appreciate their expertise, and they lapse into depression and start heavy drinking of llama urine (A specialty drink of choice four our exec mongeese) and watch porn on discovery channel.

After all this, we give you more port and send you on your merry way.

You may have noticed our intense commitment to a 'green' workshop, we use animals and starving childeren where possible to avoid pollutants and excessive costs (such as 'wages') We do this to pass the savings on to you, and any suggestion that some of the animals may or may not have been fired from 'meerkat manor' for sleeping with the production assistant are fallacious and distortions of the highest order.

After the procedure, we guarantee that you'll notice a dramatic difference in the way your car handles. So much so, that none of our customers vehicles have subsequently been involved in accidents on the road!

So please drop into our workshop at 444 shi-ite drive. we're next to the RSPCA. there are no markings on the door, so just knock 3 times, ring the bell and say loudly "I once met a man from nantucket, who'se head was shaped like a bucket.!" and we'll let you in. We have all this security to protect our patented port and polish process form people who have been trying to steal it.

Anyway, we expect to see you soon.

-BBU engineering. Organic engineering solutions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...