Jump to content
SAU Community

Broken Swaybar Bolt

cefiro
 Share

Recommended Posts

cefiro Experienced

cefiro

Posted
Posted

Nothing seems to be going right for me at the moment.

Was replaing the swaybar bushings and and links bushings, Seems that somehow the passenger side bolt where it uses a bolt to go into the chassis rail have broken the nut weld from INSIDE the chassis rail. How the hell do I get it off, then replace it????

I am a little lost on this one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111015-broken-swaybar-bolt/
Share on other sites
Trust33 Grand Master

Trust33

Posted
Posted
Nothing seems to be going right for me at the moment.

Was replaing the swaybar bushings and and links bushings, Seems that somehow the passenger side bolt where it uses a bolt to go into the chassis rail have broken the nut weld from INSIDE the chassis rail. How the hell do I get it off, then replace it????

I am a little lost on this one.

Perhaps the rails come apart in sections.have a look into it.A shop might be able to do a cut n shut job on it.

Aside from that just look arround untill you find a shop with a solution.

cefiro Experienced

cefiro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what I was thinking about was drilling a home through the rail, big enough for me to be able to grab it with either a spanner or hold it with a screw driver. Will have to check out with a mechanic or someone just so I dont weaken it too much, in saying that there are heaps of hole in it anyway where other bolts have been placed in it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Papichulo96
      Rb head oil drain dimensions

      By Papichulo96 · Posted

      Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • Sxnjeet
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Sxnjeet · Posted

      yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...