Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ha shmiddy shes lookin good mate

i now have the bug

just fitted the kie office on the weekend and twisted up the boost

like you said though, you get used to it to quickly

does anyone know what boost settings the std coils can handle

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

mine are fine at i think 1bar and 457hp.. we couldnt go any higher though because of the coils.. mine are still stock atm so im guessing they can handle a bit?? justin it is an addiction man, im really not youst to my engine yet, baby it a fair bit because i want it to last me a bit dont even wana know what itll do when we wind her up as i have my hands full at 457hp..

Hey Shmiddy,

Firstly, nice work!

Secondly, do you have any dyno graphs you can post up so we can see the power curve (and boost response) of the GT35 with the 0.63 exhaust housing?

Also, do you experience any compressor surge?

Cheers.

Thanks, that would be great.

Compressor surge is a condition that occurs when a compressor wheel is operating in the area near or on the surge line on the compressor map. For example, if a turbo's compressor is trying to flow 40lb/min at 15 psi at 3500 rpm (engine speed), but your engine can only flow 30lb/min at 15 psi at 3500 rpm, you will get compressor surge. The extra 10lb/min of air needs to go somewhere, so it ends up coming back out the compressor inlet. The turbo hesitates to flow any more air, resulting in the car bucking or shuddering. A turbo with a large compressor side and small exhaust side can be more prone to compressor surge.

Cheers.

Jason should be happy with it we reckon.

He is due to walk in the door soon straight from London and we have capped the rwhp at 410 on 15psi.

Apart from some poncams , the rest of the engine internals are stock so fingers crossed :) :)

Cheers

Ken

Yeah thanks Ken...very happy :)

Power comes on real strong...Love it...and nothing gone bang :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fk me, I guess next time I will try to use the onsite attachments feature. I find it hard to work with so far though because I can't move the images to where I want them to be. I will try to make a separate post with just images. As for lifting. The work I need to do for now involves the exhaust and engine mainly, so the arm covering the jacking points is not a problem. But I don't want to bend in the whole sill or underfloor by lifting the car at the original jack points. I found some rubber blocks, 125 by 125 with a 10mm wide and 10mm deep cutout, which I'm hoping will work for not hitting the jacking rail. The sidemember, as seen in the service manual, are the rectangular frame rails that come from the front of the car and go alongside the gearbox and downpipe. Those that get crushed inwards if you use them for a floorjack. They are already slightly bent in from being used to hoist by other people. I think cutting off the jacking points and welding or bolting on a reinforcement plate along the sill might not be a dumb idea. Or is it dumb?     A 2 post hoist is what I'm gonna work with, but not for any underbody work, just leaky engine and exhaust work so far. Depends on what else I find that might need immediate attention. For metalwork on the sills I think I'd just bring the car to a panel beater. What's your take on getting rid of the original jacking rails and putting reinforcement plates along the sills?
    • Yeah titanium always looks cool but I don't need that, just regular pipes would be fine. But I am really struggling to find any full hardpipe kit that is still for sale.
    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
×
×
  • Create New...