Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Tuner

jezzerrr

By jezzerrr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
Posted

Mods, I'm not sure of the rules regarding recommendations, so feel free to edit/delete as necessary.

The guy that runs the dyno behind Hardcore performance in Moss St. Still book through Hardcore.

He really knows his way around gtst's. My car was running like a dog, dynoed at 204hp (shootout), chewing huge amounts of fuel etc. Gave it to him for 2 hours and I now have 247hp@12ish psi(spike to about 13, settled at 11.8) with no pinging at all on BP ultimate, and brilliant fuel economy (11.6L/100k highway cycle towing a trailer, have not once seen over 12.5L/100k's, including flogging it over mount glorious), and generally much nicer to drive in general. It actually did a run at 260hp but I asked him to back it off a bit for the potential of crap fuel where I live.

He actually had the car for 2 1/2 hours but only charged me for 2, which was $250. To think, I thought I needed an aftermarket ecu to get these figures.

Mods are turbo back ex, dump pipe, pod filter and bleed valve.

So if your car is running like a bag of shite, this guy is well worth a look.

Jeremy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111113-recommended-tuner/
Share on other sites
Miller the hoon Rising Star

Miller the hoon

Posted
Posted

I recon a good service and timing play around and setting the boost controller did the job but 260rwhp with no piggy back or proper ecu is weird

my car wont handle more than 10psi but i get 250rwhp at that tho

and i have fmic

good effort there on the tune/service

james

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Using the stock ecu. by tuning I meant dicking around with timing etc. apparently the timing was retarded to buggery when I brought it in. he also pulled the mesh out of the afm (some one had removed the rear, not the front mesh), and did what ever else he could do. One of the secondary air inlet valves was stuck, tps was out, O2 sensor had a dead short, etc.

I didn't believe the 260 either, but there it was on the monitor. I hung around for most of the tune. I wouldn't be too comfortable running that with a stock intercooler anyway. He had also had the dyno calibrated a couple of weeks prior, so I'm led to believe it's pretty accurate.

250@ 10 psi is a nice figure, considering I need 2 more psi on mine for the same figure. No fmic on mine, but yeah, runs without a hitch.

In any case, I'm pretty happy that I have more power, better midrange and shitloads better fuel economy.

Jeremy

Edited by jezzerrr
khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
is this guy in melbourne?

i need a damm good tune up.. can someone recommend some body..

had anyone tried chaser on dynon road?

Hi...both these places in melb know a lot about Skylines :

http://www.ntperformance.com.au/performanceproducts.htm (tulla)

and revzone in nunawadding...I have used Rezvone a lot...speak to craig he knows his stuff. As for NT Performance they have done a lot of performance work for skylines and really know their stuff also ... I spoke to them a bit before buying my R33.

I had my emange installed at Revzone...pretty stock R33...I have 175kwatw with a good tune on stock boost. They have also tuned my FTO up nice...

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Ok. but it does do things for fuel economy hey. well he still did a good job. I didn't want this to be a who knows more than who thread, just thought I'd give credit where it was due. my bad.

Edited by jezzerrr
benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

There's no way youre on that power unless you have some aftermarket comp you dont know about. The mesh being pulled out of the front is a bit silly. It's there to stop stray object going through AFM if they get through the filter or bits of the filter disintegrate.

Glad it worked out but sounds like he is a magician or something rather than a tuner hehehe

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

dunno mate, all I know is that he said the dyno was calibrated not more than a few weeks prior, and the dyno itself was only 6 months old. It doesn't seem unrealistic to me, considering Miller is getting the same with a fmic and less boost. and I would say 2 pounds of boost is worth more than a fmic at 10 psi, it's not like the inlet charge would be heated that much at 10. Note that my run was done in shootout, if that counts for anything (dyno reading higher than usual etc)

As for the mesh, I've never seen any debris on it, and I maintain my filter, so i'm not worried about anything coming through it, or it disintegrating. I'd say it's one of those things that are open for contention. dunno, makes sense to me that air could flow through an open hole more than it could through one with mesh in it. prolly makes dick all difference in this application, but yeah, not worried.

I'll get a power run done next time I'm near a another dyno.

Edited by jezzerrr
Miller the hoon Rising Star

Miller the hoon

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have 250rwhp out an auto so 10hp more is belevable

i pushed 242rwhp in an auto with only a 3' turbo back exhaust pod and bleed at 10psi

it has been done on 2 different dynos and both times tuners have said the turbo must have been hiflowed but there are a few of us that have done it now

safc only gave me 8hp more but more drivable than before but blew up after a week so not ruuning any after market ecu

and fmic only made the power less jumpy and does not back off at high revs but gave no more power i thort

james

Edited by Miller the hoon
jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

mine has the same thing with dying off at high rpm - looks like peak power is at about 5500 then peters off.

Looks like I have to back the boost off a bit now... it doesn't seem to like the fuel up here where I live - has a bit of a pop and splutter if the engine is fully up to temp and I give it WOT. Regardless i'll still be more than happy getting the extra fuel economy and better midrange. just have to leave the higher boost for brissie :(

post-20742-1143715458.jpg

Edited by jezzerrr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • PotatoCake
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...