Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,,

I am trying to get my wipers off my 97 gtst ... i undid the nut under the little black rubber cap and have been trying to pull the biatch off for like 15 mins now...

I cant see it held on with any other nut or bolt.. correct me if i am wrong..

Reason I wanna remove them is to give them a fresh paint (as they are badly faded)..

Any help thanks...

-JD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111114-how-to-remove-wipers/
Share on other sites

Hi all,,

I am trying to get my wipers off my 97 gtst ... i undid the nut under the little black rubber cap and have been trying to pull the biatch off for like 15 mins now...

I cant see it held on with any other nut or bolt.. correct me if i am wrong..

Reason I wanna remove them is to give them a fresh paint (as they are badly faded)..

Any help thanks...

-JD

yep just one nut, you will probably have to lever them off with a a screwdriver as they have probably never be off from the factory.

spray the shaft with some WD40 and let it soak in a little, the do tend to bind to the shaft

yeah man tell me about it being binded to the shaft!! i used wd40 , oil and everything else that makes shit slippery and it still wont budge!!

grrr..

Skyline - 1 ... JD - 0 :D

You just got to pull it hard :thumbsup: , i thought i was going to break my rear windscreen but it came off successfully.

lol pshht thats what i thought when i got mine, no rear wiper, i wanted one as well, when its raining hard you cant see shit through the rear windscreen,

the rear wiper is an option for series II's for some stupid reason, while series 1's had them standard,

well in a good way its less weight for the car

Edited by R33TOM

you suckers! stop pulling them so hard!!!

to take them off:

- undo the nut that holds them

- press down on the join in the wiper closest to the nut

.. you will find that the spring gives way and you can hold the wiper horizontal

- take the wiper off with ease :(

cheers,

Warren

you suckers! stop pulling them so hard!!!

- press down on the join in the wiper closest to the nut

cheers,

Warren

Hrmm ,, so push down on the wiper right next to where the nut was removed .. :S .. so take nut off push wiper down then springs back up...

sorta confused :) ..

Hrmm ,, so push down on the wiper right next to where the nut was removed .. :S .. so take nut off push wiper down then springs back up...

sorta confused :) ..

I think you should continue to Pull and Yank instead of playing with your nuts.

you suckers! stop pulling them so hard!!!

to take them off:

- undo the nut that holds them

- press down on the join in the wiper closest to the nut

.. you will find that the spring gives way and you can hold the wiper horizontal

and HOLD the wiper horizontal as you take it off...

- take the wiper off with ease :)

cheers,

Warren

when i did my wipers i used touch up paint in the same colour as my car

I humg them in the garage from a piece of string and laid down newspaper for any overspray.

then i gave them about 5 or 6 coats of paint... really ut that shit on there. its now been about a year and no sign of fading or cracking :D

JD_33 - trust me you will be kicking yourself when you see how easy they come off.. i only say this as i was in the same situation, swearing etc. and my dad walked outside and took them off in one second!

removing the rear wiper is easy

1/ lift up cover and undo bolt holding arm in place

2/ Put big socket on nut (23mm from memory) and use breaker bar

3/ Replace rear windscreen

Here is a pic to help explain

IMG_7390_small.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
×
×
  • Create New...