Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Below is a guide on how to install NOS onto a skyline. Prefereable an RB26DETT in this case...

post-27154-1143346768.jpg

This NOS kit contains all the hardware necessary for an inline fuel injected, six cylinder engine. It's a system, meaning that it injects both fuel and nitrous through the patented NOS nozzles. Included are all hoses, lines, nozzles, distribution blocks, solenoids, filters, connectors and switches. The standard with a 10 lb. nitrous bottle. This standard bottle was used in the installation. It can, however, be ordered with either a 15 lb. or a 20 lb. nitrous bottle. These larger bottle sizes can be specified by adding a suffix to the part number.

post-27154-1143346800.jpg

To begin, the location and orientation of the NOS nitrous bottle had to be determined. It was decided that the trunk would provide the best location, but the bottle had to be mounted so that the siphon tube would be at the back of the bottle. This is necessary because the liquid N2O will be forced to the back of the bottle during vehicle acceleration. When installed, the bottle should have its valve handle pointed toward the front of the vehicle, with the NOS bottle label facing "up". The bottle bracket was secured using 5/16" or No. 12 sheet metal screws.

Next, the main nitrous feed line was installed from the trunk to the engine bay. It's easiest to route this line following either the main fuel line or the brake lines under the vehicle. One-half inch Tinnerman clamps or nylon tie-wraps could be used to securely support the nitrous line. A hole must be drilled through the trunk, under the vehicle, to gain access to the nitrous bottle.

post-27154-1143346827.jpg

At this point, it's a good idea to disconnect the Negative ground terminal from the battery to avoid any unpleasant surprises.

post-27154-1143346905.jpg

Prior to removing the intake manifold for installation of the Fogger™ nozzles, mark on the manifold the desired nozzle locations. These should be located approximately one inch (1") from the cylinder head. Make sure that there is adequate clearance for the nozzles, lines, fittings and distribution block.

post-27154-1143346954.jpg

Remove the intake manifold and retain all hardware for re-installation. Remember to use new gaskets when re-installing. Take precautions such as covering the intake ports to prevent any debris from entering the engine. A clean engine is a happy engine. Refer to the manufacturer's service manual for sequence and torquing of manifold bolts.

post-27154-1143346984.jpg

Once more, measure and verify the intake manifold location where you intend to install each nozzle. All holes drilled should be perpendicular to their respective intake runner. Carefully drill a ¼" diameter hole for each nozzle. If possible, drill the holes so that they all line up straight on the manifold.

post-27154-1143347018.jpg

Use a 1/16" NPT tap on each hole. Because this is a pipe thread, be careful not to run the tap too deep into the manifold runner hole as this may prevent the nozzles from adequately sealing. The goal here is to have the discharge orifice of the nozzle clear the sealing of the runner to assure that the nitrous is being properly distributed. After the drilling and tapping has been completed, clean the manifold thoroughly and remove all debris.

post-27154-1143347046.jpg

Apply Teflon paste to the nozzle threads before installing them in the manifold. This is to avoid the possibility of any vacuum leaks from occurring. Teflon® tape should not be used because it requires relatively more torque to properly seal. This could cause damage to the NOS fittings and nozzles. Teflon could also break loose and become lodged in the nitrous or fuel solenoids, or solenoid filters. This can cause engine damage or failure.

post-27154-1143347083.jpg

Install a NOS nozzle into each of the ¼" manifold runner holes. Orient them so that each discharge orifice is pointed down the intake manifold port, toward the cylinder head intake valve. The discharge nozzle orifice needs to clear the roof of the intake runner by about 1/8". Be careful not to over-torque the nozzles.

post-27154-1143347118.jpg

post-27154-1143347145.jpg

Now is the time for bending the hard lines to connect the nozzles to their respective distribution blocks. A tube-bending tool, available under NOS P/N 15991NOS, is required for this work. Use all the fittings provided and be aware that NOS has color-coded the nitrous lines so that "red" is for fuel and "blue" represents nitrous. Nitrous nozzle feed lines should be bent and plumbed so that they are in line with each distribution block.

post-27154-1143347176.jpg

Re-install the intake manifold, using all hardware that was retained during its removal. Be sure to use a new intake manifold gasket. Re-attach all lines, electronics and any other parts that were removed or disconnected during the intake manifold removal process.

post-27154-1143347210.jpg

post-27154-1143347218.jpg

The next step is to tap into the fuse box for an ignition-activated power source for the toggle switch that is used to "arm" the nitrous system. This switch can be installed at a location on the dash that is convenient to the driver. Activating this switch puts the nitrous system into a "standby" mode. The system itself won't actually function until the engine is at wide open throttle . This condition is confirmed by a microswitch that is installed on the throttle body.

post-27154-1143347250.jpg

The purge valve can be installed at this time. This valve is activated to expel or purge the nitrous lines prior to use, for more consistent performance. This procedure is good insurance that the nitrous lines are free of air and/or gaseous nitrous that could hinder or compromise performance. Be sure that the purge line is aimed away from the motor. A good idea is to have the purge line aimed so that it will shoot up and over the windshield.

post-27154-1143347275.jpg

The last installation step is to plumb an additional source of fuel to the fuel solenoid. Fortunately, the Skyline had an extra ¼" NPT tap on the O.E. fuel rail, this was used as a fuel source. More fuel is required when using a nitrous system because a lean condition will otherwise result.

Have FUN! :(

-JD

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111123-how-to-install-nos-on-skyline/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...