Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

For all of you guys that are interested i was competing at the H.S.R.C.A. meet at oran park this weekend in other classes but did find a little time to take a few snaps of some of the skylines competing. Good to see 2 skylines beating brocky!!!!!

I also have a few more pics and if anyone wants any i can send you the full size ones via email. Just send me a pm.

post-10862-1143362348.jpg

post-10862-1143362448.jpg

post-10862-1143362842.jpg

post-10862-1143362951.jpg

post-10862-1143363133.jpg

post-10862-1143363235.jpg

Yeah,

Its awsome seeing these old touring cars out on the track again doing what they should be doing rather than collecting dust at someones house where no one else ever see's them!!!! They sound fantastic to, nice turbo whistle when they come on boost.Im just waiting for when my r 32 becomes histroic!!!! :P

post-10862-1143403982.jpg

post-10862-1143404016.jpg

post-10862-1143404059.jpg

BTW i should mention that we (spencer and I) won all 3 of our races (group NC 1.5-2litre) even though we spent the time between race 1 and 2 on sunday welding a broken upper shock mount back together. in fact we won our class by a mile and finished up with a 12th outright. We were still 2 seconds a lap down on our best pace but were suffering from lack of power due to a little change to the air intake, and a cracked extractor. Spencer drove superbly on sunday as we enjoyed a moderate saturday night instead of the usual drink until you pass out evening we have after a race.

it was nice of some of the guys to come down and say hello.

  Beer Baron said:
hi sanger what were you in this weekend? and how did it go?

congrats to Terry and Rod.

Hey beer baron,

I was competing in the regularity section and in the group s enduro in car 131 which is a sunbeam alpine. It was my first race meeting as i only got my licence in march and i was just driving my girlfriends dads car. Lots of fun. That was the first time i had driven eastern creek to.

I went really well for my first time, The car broke in practise so i didnt actually get to do any laps till the racing, but that just adds to the excitment. In the 25 lapper we started last on the grid due to not posting a time in practice but by the time i got out for the driver change i had the car about 20th and we did a pretty quick change and ended up finishing in 18th.

  Beer Baron said:
BTW i should mention that we (spencer and I) won all 3 of our races (group NC 1.5-2litre) even though we spent the time between race 1 and 2 on sunday welding a broken upper shock mount back together. in fact we won our class by a mile and finished up with a 12th outright. We were still 2 seconds a lap down on our best pace but were suffering from lack of power due to a little change to the air intake, and a cracked extractor. Spencer drove superbly on sunday as we enjoyed a moderate saturday night instead of the usual drink until you pass out evening we have after a race.

it was nice of some of the guys to come down and say hello.

What were you driving in group n??????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
    • I actually have an aftermarket hanger, the detschwerks x1 hanger, but my dw420 has never really sat in it correctly, good to know I can just modify it a bit to suit. Yeah cheers man will definitely have a play with it and hope it solves my dramas.
×
×
  • Create New...