Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^Yeah pretty much, but acualy just want the Engine itself. But yeah that kit you showed will be popular as ppl want to take the engine out and use it for other Skyline models.

  • Replies 287
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
Is this what you guys are after ?

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10066902

I get all of my kits from this site.

awesome i have to do a few 430challenge models up for some sponosrs (better than just giving them a picture for their support) and HLJ are out of stock. How long do these guys take to send out the models?

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
Try here, could be fatal to your wallet though, be warned lol

http://www.biante.com.au/index.htm

i finally found a couple Z tune 's (autoart) in 1/18 size and nothing cheaper then $150 ...your right they aint cheap!

anyone know of a better price? or anywhere in melbourne i could go and try get a better price and have a look see?

cheers T

also the autoart mad max 2 car is a Machine!!!

i finally found a couple Z tune 's (autoart) in 1/18 size and nothing cheaper then $150 ...your right they aint cheap!

anyone know of a better price? or anywhere in melbourne i could go and try get a better price and have a look see?

cheers T

also the autoart mad max 2 car is a Machine!!!

Yeah $150 sounds about right.

You tried the "Hobby Place"

280 - 282 Lonsdale Street

Melbourne, VIC 3000

(Opposite Myer)

Ph: 9663 4407

I bought my Auto Art R34 GTR there, which cost $110 at the time but he sold it to me for $100 cause it was missing the box.

  • 1 month later...

As posted in the other thread in Wasteland...

MY GT-R collection is slowly growing...

GT-Rcollectionpt1.jpg

Top row, left to right:

  • AUTOart R34 GT-R V-Spec
  • AUTOart R32 GT-R V-Spec II (in white)
  • Kyosho KPGC10 2000GT-R

Middle row:

  • AUTOart R32 GT-R Group A. 1993 BP Oil/Trampio - limited edition, 10 of 3000
  • Biante R32 GT-R Group A. 1992 Bathurst winner (the Winfield car as driven by Skaife and Richards) - limited edition, 1 of 4000 (I think)
  • Kyosho R32 GT-R Group A. Calsonic racing

Bottom row:

  • Jada Toys R32 GT-R as seen in Initial D - driven by the Night Kids
  • some cheapo R34 pull-back toy
  • iWaver R34 GT-R remote control car

GT-Rcollectionpt2.jpg

AUTOart R32 GT-R police car (limited edition, 1 of 6000) and AUTOart R32 GT-R V-Spec II (in Spark Silver)

These two will be joining the rest in the cabinet once I make room for them. I might also buy some of those 1:18 scale hoists and some tools and mechanics so I can set up a diorama, and it will also save me buying more glass shelves and drilling holes inside the cabinet to mount them...

I'm REALLY tempted to get more police cars (from different prefectures in Japan) and some more race cars, and if I can find more of the V-Spec II R32's around I might try and see if I can get them in all the available colours.

I wish they made a C34 Stagea in 1:18 scale die-cast!

  • 3 weeks later...

went down to Macarther square last night and went to a hobby shop and spied a few sweet old school kits......made a mental note to come back.

I went back today as i couldnt be sure they would be there if i waited so i got them all...

please enjoy....

IMG_0009.jpg

IMG_0010.jpg

IMG_0014.jpg

IMG_0012.jpg

IMG_0011.jpg

IMG_0013.jpg

IMG_0015.jpg

Great price as well!

I know there like $1.00 in japan but im not there....

IMG_0016.jpg

where on earth did you find that?

that would have had a decent price tag on it!

Yeh i have only ever seen two of these Truck kits before and i had both of em lol..Sold the other one on ebay ages ago!!

Cost a little bit but well worth it

das kamu

nice 2000GTR

im looking at getting this one

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=280271389255

stock standard factory one

hard to find racing ones on ebay

and this die-cast KPGC10

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=300261878405

Edited by 342Four

well fcuk me sideways

look what i found

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12107-FUJIMI-NISSAN...idZp1638Q2em122

a fujimi race KPGC10

very bloody hard to find

*watches in My eBay

lol

ps got me that KPGC10 diecast too - saw a KPGC110 diecast and i want that now too lol

im looking at getting this one

---8<-----

stock standard factory one

hard to find racing ones on ebay

Forget ebay. http://www.hlj.com is what you need.

The Tamiya KPGC10 kit is by far the best. It has full engine and chassis detail ; aoshima and fujimi kits are kerbside (no engine detail, rudimentary chassis), and the interior and exterior detail is also primitive.

However, of course its easier to get those (aoshima, fujimi kits) in the racing versions. There is a ~$75 transkit to turn the tamiya kit into a race version...

Searching KPGC10 on HLJ.com gets you...

http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Dis=-2&fr...chpage=top_page

The Hakosuka kit I'm working on which is posted further up this page is the Tamiya GT-R kit; although the flares, chin spoiler are custom, wheels/tyres by Aoshima, and the engine and oil cooler from Fujimi kits.

Edited by floody

meh

i think i'll start with the bog stock one, then maybe get a racing one

i dont mind kerbside models as i'll most likely just be displaying them in a cabinet anyway

and i dont care if its a KPGC10 or KPGC110 - both are as awesome as each other lol

Fair enough. Just trying to help.

Good choice on the Tamiya one. My gripes with the kerbside fujimi and aoshima ones aren't just about the lack of detail, its also in deformed proportions and such they have.

I buy from HLJ or hobbyworld because I've had nothing but grief from shady Hong Kong ebay sellers.

Yeah, $10 buy it now...$50 to ship it...In a brown paper bag with tape over the end, and labelled as a gift to avoid duties... Bought 3 kits from Honkers, 2 have been crushed, one irretrievably, got sodomised on shipping costs each time, took weeks to ship each time...Never, ever again. In contrast I've had 20+ kits ex-Japan with no problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...