Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I'm looking for a good condition R33 GTST (ECR33) or R32 GTR (BNR32) complete brake setup. These are the stuff I need

Front:

- calipers

- rotors

- brake pads (optional)

Rear:

- calipers

- rotors

- rear handbrake cables

- brake lines

- back plate

- internal drum handbrake assembly

- brake pads (optional)

can u pls provide pics as well

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111215-r33-gtst-or-r32-gtr-brakes/
Share on other sites

Hi mate,

I have R34 GT-T calipers, and brand new DBA slotted 324x30mm rotors drilled to 4 x 114.3, so they are perfect for your S13.

Paid about $420 for the calipers from Four Brother Imports, about $500 for the rotors from Auto One, and $120 or something to get them drilled.

The rotors are brand new DBA slotted 324x30mm. I ordered them in blanks, and got them drilled at Specialists Brakes & Clutches.

They calipers have pads on them but I was gonna replace them with a set of new racey/track suitable pads.

I'm looking for $850 for the lot.

I can be reached on 0422 046 486, if you want to have a chat.

Cheers,

Mark

IMG_0159.jpg

IMG_0160.jpg

IMG_0161.jpg

IMG_0156.jpg

IMG_0153.jpg

I have a set of R32 GTR Brembos with rotors and pads (front). Std r32 GTR rear with drilled rotors. The rears are still attached to the diff which is complete. You can have the lot for $1200 + ship.

Cheers,

Ken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So where is this message group so we can organise another meet? Keen to come along and catchup. Might eventually be in a skyline again next year, but the Mustang will have to do for now. Also need to get the WRX back on the road. Stupid f**king money pit that thing is.
    • Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.
    • He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.
    • Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?
×
×
  • Create New...