Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I recently bought a s2 97 R33

It has:

SAFCII

HKS EVC

cat-back HKS drager

Fmic (Apex)

HKS mushroom air filter

Pivot Short-throw shifter

Mech LSD 1.5way

twin-plate OS-Giken Clutch

Stif coil-overs

Can anyone tell me how much power at the wheels I can expect and what 1/4 mile time is possible?

Cheers, thank you in advance

Well from the very limited amount of info you have provided I cant say anyone will be able to predict the power figure. You havent even said how much boost our running etc.

But I love a game so my guess is.....

190rwkw

and

14.5ET

Maybe closer to 200rwkw

But I could be completely wrong as my head is not a Dyno Dynamics roller and your car isnt ramping up on top of me.

SydneyKid Seems to have an amazing talent of picking power figures and ET's but other than that.

Book in with your local performance shop for a dyno run.

And unless like me you live in a Capital city that is still waiting on its dragstrip to be rebuilt.

Go to your local Drag strip and have a few runs.

:(

A real 170rwkw can get you a low 13. If you have a real 190rwkw it is possible to run 12.6.

It doesn't matter really, if you like your car the ways it goes thats what matters. You of course will never be satisfied though, that is the illness we all suffer from. :(

Another thing i forgot to mention is that on the top of the core of the fmic it says HYBRID and near, what I believe is a serial number, says Apex or Apexi and some asian writing. The car is fresh from Japan, I thought Hybrid was a Australian brand. Although it is front mounted, its end-tanks point in the same direction and use factory piping from the standard cooler, a bit like the ARC coolers. What brand is it?

Also, while the car is stationary, when I push the clutch down it rattles and is quite stiff. It engages and disengages really early and quickly. So is it a twin plate?

Lastly, when I turn a corner I hear the back wheels carrying on like a mini spool (chit.. chit.. chit..) and when in straight line motion there is no sound. Also, when i stall the car (im still not used to driving it) the back wheels do a half turn and the car comes to a sudden halt. What type of diff do I have? Is it a 1.5 or 2.0 LSD, because it sure ain't stock.

Cheers, Thanks in advance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...