Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

What i need to do is increase my steering lock as much as possible.

What i need as far as i know.

1* longer tie rods.

2* Longer and thinner front lower control arm.

3* adj upper control arm (to increae camber).

now number 3 is no prob but does anyone know where a can source 1 and 2

cheers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111238-formula-d-r32/
Share on other sites

noltec sell an adjustable upper arm that uses poly bushes. Tuneagent sells a pillow ball type. Ikeya formula is the only adjustable lower arm one i have seen, and there are quite a few tie rod extensions available, also from tuneagent i think.

Edited by BHDave
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111238-formula-d-r32/#findComment-2051792
Share on other sites

www.garage-13.com

Have the ikeya formula gear in stock, adjustable lower control arms, upper control arms, everything you'll need champ.

From memory the rod ends are 435ish bucks, the lower control arms 800 and the uppers around 150 too... thats rough, the exact prices are on there :D

If your keen, wouldnt mind organising a group buy on this gear, as im keen to get it all sussed out for mine too, I might shoot off a few emails see if I can work something out.

Edited by benigno
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111238-formula-d-r32/#findComment-2057141
Share on other sites

Super Now FC/R32 Rod Kits

Suit FC, R32 (please specify when ordering)

Also available for Toyota Supra/Soarer,

Adds steering lock.

$435 (order only)

Front Camber Upper Arms

Suit r32.

from $175 (order only)

pillowball items $480

Ikeya Formula Aftermarket Control Arms

suit s13, s14, s15, a31, ecr33, er34, hcr32, z32.

allows for heaps of adjustment...

from $350 2nd hand.

$799 new

Theres the listed prices, and here is the link:

http://www.garage-13.com/suspension.html

Makes life easy for ya :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111238-formula-d-r32/#findComment-2057149
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

thanks for the info benigno..

I would be down for a group buy if you wanna let me know what you had in mind.

I was thinking the

* super now Rod kit

* the JIC front upper's

*and 2nd hand ikeya Lower control arms

all for HCR32

let us know.

Cheers

Andrew.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111238-formula-d-r32/#findComment-2081571
Share on other sites

depending on how much cash you have available. Tie rod ends with the spacers are the most important thing to get to increase steering lock

Some more camber will help, I suggest you go for the some Noltec or Whiteline camber bushes, or the camber arms.

drift wise...

-do you have aftermarket castor rods and running at least 8 degrees positive castor?

-a little bit of toe-out can also help

-aftermarket control arms are an expensive option, this would be one of the last drift-related mods i'd consider.

What driveline & suspension mods do you have already?

do you have a mech diff / welded? hicas lock? castor rods? coilovers? stabiliser bars?

those are some things to look at before getting aftermarket control arms

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111238-formula-d-r32/#findComment-2084786
Share on other sites

Hey Merlin.

drift wise...

-do you have aftermarket castor rods and running at least 8 degrees positive castor? Yep

-a little bit of toe-out can also help Havent tried this yet to me it seems like a bandaid solution.

-aftermarket control arms are an expensive option, this would be one of the last drift-related mods i'd consider. To me it seems like i wouldnt be able to take full adv of the increased steering travel with the standard lower control arms

What driveline & suspension mods do you have already?

do you have a mech diff / welded? yes welded hicas lock? yes castor rods? yes coilovers? yes stabiliser bars? yes strut and sway.

those are some things to look at before getting aftermarket control arms

really dont wanna spend over 1000 but i dont know how realistic that is specially if i want to include upper arm to have camber adj.

anyway cheers for your help.

Andrew

btw Do you get out there and drift much keen to see more 32's out there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111238-formula-d-r32/#findComment-2090027
Share on other sites

looks like you have a pretty good setup there!

yeah i've been drifting regularly for a bit over a year now, most of my friends slide S13's, if you ever head down to vic pop me a pm...

as far as sourcing those parts, try www.garage-13.com

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111238-formula-d-r32/#findComment-2090066
Share on other sites

oh your in vic..lol i thought you were in sydney..

I'll end up down there at some stage i dont know if the car is gonna be ready to compete this year or not jus trying to sort out the last few things like the suspension and my major lag issue..

cheers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111238-formula-d-r32/#findComment-2090113
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Looking at finally painting and installing my R32 GTR wing I bought back in 2018. I got two quotes: Quote 1: $880 includes: wing, spare boot, holes welded up prep/paint. Pro: full boot with wing AND hole-less boot with lip i can swap between Con: $$  Quote 2: $330 wing only. Pro: cheaper Con: lose my (relatively) rare no holes sedan boot Also to consider I do plan on painting my whole car at some point "soon" (been saying that since 2018) Anyway Enjoy these All Japan Day 2025 pictures of my 4 door, still rocking the Calsonic Livery! Rolling in Interior shot Matching Peer Pressure Racing overalls are pretty cute ngl. This year was a hard 1990 cut so I got to be over with all the older cool stuff Next to arguably the best car there. A mighty S-Cargo
    • I personally would run 2x from the cam covers into the catch can, 1x sump vent to catch can (would mount this at a low point of the catch can, so it can also act as a drain). I would see if you can run a -12AN down there to improve venting and also draining. The head drain thing, just drain that back to the sump on the other side. Catch can to be vented, unless you plumb or back to the intake.
    • Yeah the head "drain" is rather a sump/crank case vent. My catch can stopped filling up after venting the sump to the catch can. I have 4x fittings in mine, which is about 5Ls. 2x cam, 1x sump vent/catch can drain, 1x fitting back to the intake and a massive breather which can be blocked so it's a fully sealed system.
    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...