Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at doing a moderate build on my rb20det.

Can anyone give me approximate prices on a few things.

Adjustable cam gears?

Custom Inlet manifold?

High flow of the t3?

Mild porting of the head?

tougher head gasket?

fuel system (any ideas?)

Stock Computer (what can it handle?)

Can you guys advise anything else to do to an rb20 to get a reliable 190-220rwkw?

also,

is an rb24 possible?

and how much would it cst fo rthe rb26 crank and rods?

Ive heard of MASSIVE improvements with this.

cheers

-Nath

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11124-rb24/
Share on other sites

rb 2.4 is an expensive exercise unless you can do the engine work your self for 190 200 rwkw no need for a tougher head gasket. a guy from here made 188 rwkw with a hifowed turbo ecu bigger fuel pump and 18 psi

cheers

meggala

rb2.3 is a cheaper exercise with the rb 25 crank and rods

http://www.meggala.com/nissanrb3css.htm

the info is at the bottom of that page for the rb2.4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11124-rb24/#findComment-184086
Share on other sites

any idea of price?

I'm not that experienced, so i have no idea how much these will cost and if they are rare.

I expect it would be a good $500 for the rods and pistons???

How much for the rb2.3 and what kind of power am i looking at?

I have friends who can help me do the work, we did the engine conversion it is now in, by ourselves. Thats still running fine, so there shouldn't be much problem in fitting it, its just the tuning part i'd leave up to professionals.

How much to high flow the t03?

Ive been told that aftermarket ecu's need continuous tuning and are a waste of time and money and one should just remap and chip the stock computer.

Any advice you can give me?

-Nath

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11124-rb24/#findComment-184247
Share on other sites

will the rb 2.3 is not a bad motor one company in in japan made over 1000 of them should rev fine with good rod bolts these motors need custom pistons to suit of 81 or 82 mm tomei make the pistons for the 2.4 they are 30000 yen each or $440 each so nearly 2500 for just pistons at least 1 k for the machine work 1k for gasket etc then 1k for assembly you see where its heading then if your going to do all this work you want a big MOF turbo with external gate 3-5k then you need injecotrs afm the the rb20 box wont be strong enough so you need an rb 25 box 2k + with clutch its not worth it unles syou going for an all out track car to take a record with the 2.4 kit I have seen 700 hp + made with t88 turbos.

and the stock rb 20 will handel 250 rwkw so why change

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11124-rb24/#findComment-184361
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • @Lithium  looking for a turbo for my Rb30. Want to make sure I understand this correctly.   If I want to stay 40psi or under my best choice of these 3 is actually the smaller G40-1150 ?
    • Massive ups for MTHire also. Could not have done the subframe bushings job without hiring the tool from them. Process was super easy and cost me around 25% of the cost of the tool. If you need a one-time tool to do something, check them out. (Paid for the rental myself, no sponsorship here.)  
    • I'd suggest calling Unigroup, they have a lot of experience with these, access to reliable fabricators etc. Of course it will cost but at least you can trust what they tell you
    • The switch part, is the switch you use to turn the lights on and off in the car.   The test I had was to determine where in the line it is, but on a quick rethink, if it's only blowing when you turn the switch on, then it's the wire from the switch, to the headlight that's got the short. Now it's a case as GTS said, of physically finding the fault. The fault could be:  metal has broken through the loom. Known as a rub through. Places to check: anywhere the wiring has been messed with in the car, particularly firewall grommets if extra cables have been passed through. Check the inner guard linings, you might be rubbing through with a wheel, particularly if the vehicle has been lowered. Also check for anywhere there could be high heat, especially if heat shields are missing. Double check any wiring at the head unit too if someone has messed with the headlight wiring to pick up a feed to dim the headlight at night. You could also just have really old cabling that is literally falling apart, though, this is more likely in Euros than in an old Nissan in my experience.
    • Yeah. I usually go by the torque specs. I forgot that Nissan recommends 1386b sealant on that thread, still can buy it on ebay actually.
×
×
  • Create New...