Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Get My Difi Guages Hooked Up..?


Recommended Posts

what guages have you got?

you'll need to make sure you have:

1 - the actual sensor (eg. oil temp sensor)

2- wire to conect the sensor to the control unit

3 - wire to connect the gauge to the control unit

if the control unit's already wired in then it will be very simple to get the guages happening...

man thats too cheap especially if you know what you are doing.

i am on your side of town will do it for $120 an hour with a minimum charge of 1 hour

:dry:

Just make sure you provide your trade qualifications and prove you are covered by insurance, in case you fark up and fry the electrics.

Hell if you are charging w/shop rates i would want it done professionally at a w/shop. :(

$80?? $120??

At those rates, go see an auto-elec Mark.

I still have the manual in pdf form somewhere.

PM me your email address & I'll find it & send it.

My suggestion is you get a switch put in incase the cops hassle you.

Hope the 34's going well!

Mark,

Here ya go:

http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/Def_Inst.asp?CP=Main.txt&Cart=

I think it was a Link Controller II.

Go to page 27 for the wiring diag for this - lists colour of wires, etc.

If you need connectors, maybe go to Jaycar with the control box & ask them. If they don't sell them, they will know who would.

:0)

Go to an autoelec they charge more than $120 an hour and why do most people with japanese cars or anything difficult like conversions ecu's stay away from auto elecs?

because they charge heaps even if they don't get it running and most of the time its not done right

shut the f**k up if you have no idea because good people don't fry electrics because they don't f**k up. and if they do they don't charge you to fix like most.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?
    • No. Have only gotten as far as contemplating the task of having to put in the required fairly heavy wiring and fusing to run it (along with the big alternator), and preferring not to. But otherwise, it would be nice to have a little extra freedom as to exactly where the compressor is located and free up some space around the exhaust side of the engine.
    • Following from this in a related by not closely-related sense... Because I was buying a bunch of other GKTech stuff, I got some rear subframe collars. The history that leads up to this is: 25+ years ago the car arrived into the country with stock subframe bushes. At some point shortly thereafter I added Whiteline pineapple rings, set up neutral, and it improved the rear end behaviour. Well, it is my vague memory that I was happier with it with them in. Less axle tramp on launches, generally better, etc etc. ~2012 it got a new non-HICAS subframe with new stock bushes. No pineapple rings. I reckon that ever since then I've been dissatisfied with the axle tramp. Recently I've been f**king around a lot with all aspects of the suspension. One contemplation has been to relocate the rear lower control arm front mount points (and do the other things needed to make that work) to improve longitudinal rear grip by getting rid of some of the stupid anti-squat that Nissan ladled into the R32. But.... before doing that I thought I'd put some collars in. And.... The collars are good. The rear sounds a little bit different, but there has been no significant increase in NVH coming up into the body. In terms of rear behaviour - expansion joints on long sweeping elevated freeway ramps that would sometimes cause the rear to jiggle around a bit, no longer seem to do so. It appears that jamming chunks of metal into the gaps in the rubber so they can't move much is a really good thing. And the launch behaviour and general forward traction situation seems to be greatly improved too. It's impossible to be really sure, because the tyres are completely shagged - they are freakishly willing to let go right now. But as an A-B test with the same tyres it certainly seems to grip up a lot better. Highly recommended to anyone who still has stock bushes.
    • Bit off topic maybe but has anyone had a crack at one of those aftermarket electric compressors ? Bit of a search came up with one put out by Speedy Air Spares. Looks interesting and looks as if you'd have to run a big arse alternator. Found this out after the fact as my air con compressor packed it in and soon after my alternator ! !
    • Yes. Needs new ports. Usually just achieved by screwing an adapter onto them. Be aware that any AC compressor that hasn't been used in a long time will very likely have dried out seals and will not hold gas. Oh, and obviously you will require a new receiver-dryer also.
×
×
  • Create New...