Dr30 Or Ae86

[Kaido_RR]

Hi,

Im looking at getting a daily driver, with the option to turn it into a track-car later on (2years+)

I am looking at getting a Dr30 or AE86 (jdm not aus spec).

Basicly im looking at the cost to run both cars and how hard it is to find parts for them? I know with the 86 you can go to your toyota dealer and get parts from them and find parts here very easy but im not sure about the dr30.

any input would be nice

ohh what what type of fuel would i need to run in the fj20? bp98?

thanks michael

[R33TOM]

go the AE86, it would be really cheap to run in the long run,

although sourcing an ae86 from japan is not exactly cheap, i wouldnt mind getting one myself

[Adam_RSX]

Parts for a DR30 aren't very expensive (except oil pumps) and my DR30 was far nicer than friends AE86's. Definitely go the DR30, indestructible engine as long as you keep the sump off the oil pickup, tough rear end and it doesnt have a trailer axle in the back

[Deluxe]

heaps of parts for either, just depends on if you want a bigger car or smaller car. DR30 would be the faster car for track work. IMO if you really want a sweet track car(grip race) get a old scool Rotor RX3, RX2 RX7 even! With the right setup they go hard, just look at the field in Improved Production! But definatly the DR as a street car!

[Kaido_RR]

Parts for a DR30 aren't very expensive (except oil pumps) and my DR30 was far nicer than friends AE86's. Definitely go the DR30, indestructible engine as long as you keep the sump off the oil pickup, tough rear end and it doesnt have a trailer axle in the back

hey adam, where do you get most of your parts from? do you have to soruce them from japan or can u get them from nissan? (im not general parts which wear over time)

and thankyou everyone else for the reply

[funkymonkey]

ae86's are rust heaps, i own one (oz spec upgraded to japanese rear and silvia front). I also work for an importer and only 1 out of 10 ae86's we inspect that are cheap have acceptable amounts of rust. Usually their owned by budding amatures with small budgets in japan, so maintenance is not a priority. The ones that are well looked after and clean are owned by proper enthusiasts and a good clean runner will cost you at least 12k to anywhere up to 23k for fully restored ones. For that sorta money you can easily land an R33 GTSt that's 10 years newer.

In comparison most DR30's we look at have easy lives and aren't as neglected.

Purely from a value for money perspective, I'd say go with the DR30... you just don't get as good a car if you bought an AE86 for the same amount.

[Kaido_RR]

ae86's are rust heaps, i own one (oz spec upgraded to japanese rear and silvia front). I also work for an importer and only 1 out of 10 ae86's we inspect that are cheap have acceptable amounts of rust. Usually their owned by budding amatures with small budgets in japan, so maintenance is not a priority. The ones that are well looked after and clean are owned by proper enthusiasts and a good clean runner will cost you at least 12k to anywhere up to 23k for fully restored ones. For that sorta money you can easily land an R33 GTSt that's 10 years newer.

In comparison most DR30's we look at have easy lives and aren't as neglected.

Purely from a value for money perspective, I'd say go with the DR30... you just don't get as good a car if you bought an AE86 for the same amount.

thanks for that funky

i've been checking out some of the auction in the area which the person i am importing through uses, and their are alot of ae86 but as you said the auction sheet always mention rust...

only problem i have seen is that there arnt many dr30 for sale

[D-limo]

Go the older model DR30 sedan.. As far as I'm aware body panels should be interchangable with Aus spec MR30's.. FJ and GZE are both awesome engines... Steering feel will be slightly better in the 86 due to R30's running steering box. Then there's the DR's indipendant rear wich seems to work well even though its a trailing arm set up. My mate uses premium with no hassels

DR30 as a daily for the win.... nothing like the oldschool grunt of the FJ when you knock it back a gear Bang for buck u cant loose

What sort of figures are you looking at for a clean DR30 landed if you don't mind me asking?

[Adam_RSX]

Engine parts are easy through Stewart Wilkins in Sydney

Other various bits I've gotten through Jaustech for DR30 specific items, and general Nissan wreckers for common R30 parts

And I had most work done by my Triumph mechanics, so they can't be too hard to work on, they'd never seen one before

[LuvDR]

If you live in WA as your info says then i would suggest you will have a rough time finding parts that you may need. I would still go the DR as there is a couple of people that have bits and pieces, but say the cost would be heaps and ya probably dont want to break anything.

[PRO-L20]

Mikey, I've seen DR30's with immaculate paint (still stock colour) for around 5k. Sure, it could have a few problems but if the original paint is that good, it goes to show the quality of a car.

FJ20 is the founder of nissan 2ltr turbos really.. And it's a bulletproof beast to boot.

DR30 FTW!

[NateR31]

buy my auto rb30e R31, $1000, use it as a daily