Bosch 044 Intank R32 Gtr

[saliya]

NOTE: You WILL NEED to modify the cradle, meaning that your old fuel pump

will not mount back in with the original mounting hardware. You can

of course mount the old fuel pump in the same way the 044 will be mounted

should you need to put the old one back. If you want to use the original

mounting hardware, you need a fuel pump that's the same size as the original

(i.e. not an 044).

Yes, the 044 goes into a GTR tank, but no, it's not a drop-in replacement.

Yes, it's an EXTERNAL pump, but no, it hasn't broken yet.

Yes, this is what I did, but no warranty is express or implied. YMMV.

If it breaks you get to keep all the pieces.

edit: these instructions pretty much apply to a drop-in replacement pump (e.g.

Nismo, see Beer Baron's post) but you of course won't need to do any cutting

and shutting.

You will need:

EQUIPMENT:

1 x No.2 phillips-head driver

1 x hammer

1 x very large flat-blade screwdriver, or small woodblock, or suitable tool to use to undo ring around

fuel gauge ASSEMBLY.

n x various rags for soaking up fuel and cleaning things

1 x pair plastic hose-clamp pliers, big enough to clamp fuel hose.

1 x pair bull-nose or long-nose pliers

1 x metal lathe (or correct-sized fitting, see below, we didn't have one).

1 x heat gun

1 x die-grinder

PARTS:

1 x Bosch 044 fuel pump

2 x large cable ties (1cm across, 30cm long) that will not degrade in fuel,

OR 2 x worm-drive clamps long enough to go around the pump + an extra 8cm.

I used cable ties, time will tell if this is a Bad Thing

30cm 3/8" ID EFI hose (edit: this apparently needs to be special butyl/butyl hose, see post from Leadfoot below,

I got 'fuel hose' from Pirtek and it's not exploded yet but YMMV. If you mount the pump right you can get away

with not using any extra hose).

1 x large freezer bag

1 x 'blue' ring terminator to fit over 5mm post

1 x 'red' ring terminator to fit over 6mm post

1 x 5mm nut

1 x 6mm nut

a few assorted cable ties of various sizes

Fittings I used:

BOTTOM OF PUMP:

18mm metric nipple to JIC machined to fit inside sock pipe

(someone want to find a pre-made fitting?)

TOP OF PUMP:

12mm metric M to 1/4" BSP M

1/4" BSP F-F elbow

1/4" BSP nipple

1/4" BSP check valve

1/4" BSP to 5/8" hose tail

FITTINGS CAN VARY! All you need to do is figure out the fittings needed to get from the top

of the pump through a 90 degree bend through a check-valve to the outbound fuel line.

The reason that you need a bend is that when the pump is sitting in the cradle a straight fitting

will be too long (it will hit the side of the tank).

INSTRUCTIONS:

* Read right through to the END OF INSTRUCTIONS marker. Do it now.

Preferably with some sort of cold drink in your hand, don't make the drink _too_

alcoholic until you've finished the whole process

If you can, start this job with a LOW fuel level in the tank.

* Open the boot, remove lining from bottom so you can see the spare wheel. Right

next to that is a square black plastic lid with a rubber grommet in it, that is the cover

for the fuel tank access. Take a photo of this for me to put here. Remove 4 screws

with phillips-head driver or appropriate socket and put them in a safe place. Lift

the INSPECTION HOLE COVER.

* You are now looking at a white plastic cap with 2 x metal hose fittings coming

out of it poking forward and 2 plastic electrical fittings pointing upwards. This is

called the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY.

edit: photo from steve_gts4 of FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY showing fittings removed.

Don't remove fuel hose till later!

One hose will have an arrow pointing towards

the front of the car, this is the TO-ENGINE hose and is currently under pressure.

Do not remove it yet!!!. The other hose has an arrow pointing towards the back

of the car, this is the low-pressure RETURN line.

Remove the two electrical fittings by squeezing in the appropriate places and pulling

(how many times have you heard _that_ before?). Ensure any grommets that are

part of the fittings stay with the fittings. Now you can move the INSPECTION HOLE

COVER out of the way (it's no longer attached).

Hit the area with a vacuum or some air to remove any dirt/rocks/small children that

might be sitting around - we don't want those falling in the fuel tank when you get it open.

* Go back to the front of the car and turn it over a few times. This will relieve the

pressure in the TO-ENGINE fuel line so when you undo it you are less likely to get

fuel in your eye. This is a Good Thing.

* Back in the boot, look on the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY for an orientation marker

(a white triangle pointing towards the front of the car). If you don't have one you have to

mark the orientation of the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY because it's important to put it back

pointing the same way. Mark the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY and the surround with an indelible pen

(a dot is fine on each) such that the dots line up.

* Put a couple of rags near/under the hoses, use pliers to squeeze the RETURN hose clamp

and slide it past the bump in the fitting, remove the RETURN hose and tuck it underneath

the LHS out of the way (make sure you can reach it! .

* Clamp the TO-ENGINE hose with the hose-clamp pliers. If you don't, you will probably get

fuel in your eye. Undo and remove the clamp that fixes the TO-ENGINE hose to the fitting,

store it somewhere safe. Remove the hose, being careful not to get fuel in your eye. Do

not remove the hose-clamp pliers yet!

* Use a) the correct tool b) your hand c) knockometer + very large flat-blade driver or

d) something else to remove the black plastic ring that holds down the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY

by turning it anti-clockwise. Take 5 minutes to mop up the blood if you selected option (b).

* Lift the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY partway out of the hole, being very careful not to put

strain on any hoses, wires, or the two really important parts (the gauge + float and the

empty-tank light part). They are attached to the two coathanger-gauge wires in the pic.

edit: Photo from steve_gts4 showing removal from tank.

Unclamp the hoses on the bottom, marking (with a cable-tie, or position of the clamp you

slid down) the RETURN hose. It's very important to put this hose back on the right place

Squeeze and remove the two electrical fittings.

Being very careful, you should now be able to remove the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY from

the tank. Do not bend any of the wires or interfere with the movement of the float. Put

the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY somewhere safe.

* Point the TO-ENGINE hose into the tank and release the hose-clamp pliers. Try not

to get fuel in your eye. Tuck the TO-ENGINE hose out of the way next to the RETURN hose.

* Remove the rubber SEAL PACKING that is around the hole. Put this in a freezer bag,

and into your freezer. The manual says to replace this every time, but if you don't damage

it and keep it cold you should be able to put it back on.

* You should now be able to shine a torch down into your tank and see your FUEL PUMP

ASSEMBLY almost directly under the hole. It's aligned east-west. Reach down to the 'back'

(RHS) of the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY and feel for a clip on the bottom. Lift the clip slightly

and you should be able to push the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY toward the centre of the tank about

an inch; this will free it from its retainers on the bottom of the tank and allow you to lift the

FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY out of the fuel. Photo please. Wait for the cradle/strainer section to drain.

* Remove the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY from the tank, along with its hoses and electrical

connections. The RETURN hose goes to the bottom of the assembly, so make doubly sure

you've differentiated it from the TO-ENGINE hose (which comes out of the top of the pump).

edit: photo from steve_gts4 showing FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY out of the tank.

* Undo the bottom clip holding the fuel pump CRADLE in place and slide the CRADLE

out of the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY being very careful of the STRAINER sock (it's fragile).

Undo the clips that hold the top of the CRADLE in place, and remove the top of the CRADLE

and the RUBBER 'PLUG'. These items will not fit back on because the 044 is physically too big,

so just mount them on a plinth somewhere that you can point it out to your friends.

* Note down which colour wire goes to which connection on the existing fuel pump.

The negative connection will split into 2, with one going to the terminal on the pump and

one going to the body of the pump. This is not needed for the 044 pump which has the

negative connection earthed to the body internally.

* Remove the hose and electrical fittings from the FUEL PUMP.

Remove the FUEL PUMP from the CRADLE.

Remove the star-washer that holds the STRAINER in place and remove the STRAINER

from the FUEL PUMP.

* Now you need to do a bit of work. If you put the whole STRAINER onto the 044

you will find that it is very long and does not sit nicely in the cradle. The solution is to

cut about 1" off the end of the blue plastic pipe that comes out of the middle of the

STRAINER - you need to leave enough to push your fitting that you will make next

into. You have to be very careful when doing this not to get any of the plastic into

the STRAINER. The plastic is very hard, so you can use a hacksaw to cut a

groove right around the plastic (do not cut right through!!!) and then snap it

off. Photo please. Does anyone have a fitting that is the correct O.D. to match

the I.D. of this tube ?

* Take the 'correct' fitting or an 18mm metric <-> JIC nipple that you have machined

to fit inside the tube and mount it on the pump.

Mount the STRAINER sock on this fitting ensuring that the FRONT EDGE of the strainer sock

is parallel with the 2 x electrical fittings on the top of the pump. The idea is that when the

STRAINER is in its correct place in the tank, the electrical fittings will be parallel with the wall

of the tank (photo please!!!!!) We had to use a heat gun lightly on the tube to get it over the

machined JIC fitting and to rotate it slightly; but it is now a very secure fit.

* Using a die-grinder, cut away that end of the cradle that prevents the pump from sitting

properly.

* Mount the 044 + STRAINER to the CRADLE using worm-drive clamps or very large

cable-ties. There are pretty much only 2 places you can mount the ties without interfering

with the CRADLE mechanism

edit: photo from steve_gts4 showing sock fitted and pump clamped to cradle. Note

alignment of bottom of sock and electrical terminals as above.

* Cut off the pump-body-earth right near the split (so you now only have two electrical

cables, +ve and -ve instead of two -ve). Cut the existing electrical connectors off the cable.

Strip and re-terminate the cable with your new connectors, making sure that the LARGER

connector is attached to the POSITIVE cable that you noted down before.

* HOSE FITTINGS: You might do this part differently.

Ensure that all fittings seal tightly either with o-rings, thread tape, or interference.

Fit the 12mm metric <-> 1/4" BSP nipple to the top of the pump.

Fit the right-angle F-F 1/4" BSP elbow to the nipple.

VERY IMPORTANT:

Ensure that the 'top' of the elbow is parallel with the electrical connectors on the pump,

AND that when the PUMP/STRAINER is oriented exactly as it will be in the tank, that the

elbow is pointed towards the FRONT of the tank. You may need to use a copper washer

of "the right thickness" between the elbow and nipple to ensure that this is the case.

edit: the elbow _can_ as in this photo point "up"; you do not want to point it "back".

photo from steve_gts4 showing pump back in cradle ready to go back into tank.

Fit the 1/4" nipple to the elbow.

Fit the check valve to the nipple, ensuring that the valve's arrow points AWAY from the pump.

Fit the HOSE TAIL to the check valve.

* DISCONNECT the very last short (about 5cm) section of EFI hose from the in-line SURGE

ELIMINATOR. Replace this hose with the 20cm of new hose you bought, replace the clamp.

You need the extra length to avoid kinking because the pump outlet has now moved.

* Replace the CRADLE in the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY. Connect the electrical connectors

(make sure they're the right way round! ) and connect the new section of hose you

just put in to the HOSE TAIL. Make sure you clamp it. In fact, double-check all your clamps

and connections now, because once you put it back in the tank you don't want to have

to pull it back out again.

* Replace the FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY in the tank, keeping the hoses and wires towards

the front of the tank. Make sure there are no kinks or twists in the hoses. You need to

sit the ASSEMBLY in the middle of the tank lined up with its locking rails, then push it

towards the RHS of the car till it clicks. Give it a good wiggle to make sure it's locked down.

* Go get your SEAL PACKING out of the freezer, remove it from its bag, and put it back

around the hole the same way it was when you removed it.

* Replace the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY, being careful to reconnect all connections

properly. In particular ensure that the RETURN fuel line coming from the bottom of the

FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY goes to the one marked with a cable tie in this photo.

edit: photo from steve_gts4 showing FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY with return line marked

Ensure that no hose/cable fouls the fuel gauge float (if you have kept the cables/hoses towards

the front of the tank there will be no fouling). Make doubly sure all clamps/connectors are

done up, then push the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY back into place.

Double check orientation marks to make sure it's in the right place.

* Replace the black ring that holds the FUEL GAUGE ASSEMBLY in place.

* Reconnect fuel hoses (ensure that RETURN and TO-ENGINE hoses are correctly oriented;

your RETURN hose should have a squeeze-type clamp on it and the TO-ENGINE hose should

have a screw-type clamp).

* Reconnect electrical connectors and turn your car ON. Look for fuel leaks in/around the

fittings you just reconnected to. If there are no leaks replace the INSPECTION HOLE COVER

and put the screws back in.

* Take your car for a light drive, checking for fuel problems. A fuel pressure gauge is ideal,

but even if you don't have that you can be especially observant for a few km. If you detect

any type of problem you must lather, rinse, repeat till there are no problems

Enjoy!

END OF INSTRUCTIONS

If there is anything I've left out, or you have any suggestions or pix, please drop me a PM.

Saliya

Edited August 8, 2006 by saliya

[steve_gts4]

some pics, as requested in the doc, then some extras!

the white cap

the fuel gauge assembly coming out of the hole

the stock pump in the cradle

the sock fitted onto the 044 pump, which is already fitted to part of the cradle with a big hose clamp

the pump and sock fitted into the cradle

the pump with the outlet fitted and electrical connections fitted and in the cradle ready to put back in the tank

the fuel gauge assembly

I hope these pics help! Its not a real difficult job.. The worst part of it was running around trying to find the right fittings. I ended up getting them all from Kiwk Fix in brookvale.

total cost for the job was about $310

Edited April 6, 2006 by steve_gts4

[steve_gts4]

i just had a problem with my install...

its important not to put the sock too close to the bottom of the cradle! make sure there is about a 1cm gap.

my pump started to make this horrible moaning noise all the time and couldnt delivery enough fuel for the motor.. turns out it was trying to suck the bottom of the cradle up through the pump.. hehe

i shifted it up a little bit, and now its fine again.

[Topaz]

That round bronze looking thing at the top of the pump, is that the fuel pump pressure regulator?

[steve_gts4]

nope.. the FPR sits on the fuel rail in the engine bay

[Topaz]

ok, cheers, it looks kinda similar and I am about to do mine

[SLVR32GTR]

Hi There guys,

Great DIY thread, i am going to be putting my 044 pump into my 32 GTR this weekend!!

I had a question though. I went to get some fuel hose yesterday and noticed that you specify 5/8" size. This was not available and after thinking about it, that is a 16mm hose!! I took a stab at it and assumed you meant 3/8" which is 10mm and is the standard size on most japanese and european cars.

Can someone please confirm the correct size of the fuel hose in both imperical and metric just to put me at ease??

Thanks,

SLVR32GTR

[Beer Baron]

Good guide mate. I just put a nismo pump into my GTR. Very easy, I'd highly reccomend it. No cutting wires, or cradle, or fuel hose. You literally remove the old pump and put the new one in it's place. Comes with a new tank seal too. Good value I reckon, and flows enough to run up to 750cc injectors.

[saliya]

Good guide mate. I just put a nismo pump into my GTR. Very easy, I'd highly reccomend it. No cutting wires, or cradle, or fuel hose. You literally remove the old pump and put the new one in it's place. Comes with a new tank seal too. Good value I reckon, and flows enough to run up to 750cc injectors.

Hey,

Cheers I know they said 'no chit chat', but:

It depends on what boost you're running. I think that flow rating's at 43psi (i.e. the stock fuel rail pressure, no boost)

- and what you're _probably_ interested in if you've run out of flow on a GTR fuel pump is the flow rating at

say 65psi or more (rail pressure + say 22psi boost). This is because if you're trying to run 600-700cc injectors out

of flow, you're trying to make 600-700HP - and this doesn't happen @0bar of boost on an RB26. FWIW most people

seem to need 25-30psi boost to make those kinds of numbers.

Kind of hard to find accurate specs on the Nismo pumps though, so if you have flow data @65-70psi I'd love to see it.

I guess it also depends on what you paid for it - an 044 these days would probably go for $250 delivered - I don't know

what the Nismo one sells for but on Nengun it's probably close to double that. There's a lot to be said for 'bolt in'

(so much stuff is called that, so little actually is)...

Regards,

Saliya

[Topaz]

Good guide mate. I just put a nismo pump into my GTR. Very easy...

Thats good to hear, I can now attempt my Nismo pump this weekend if time permits.

Do you need to drain any fuel or anything?, is there some splash back from the tubes at all?

[Beer Baron]

yeah that's a good point. Nismo pump is definately up to the task of supplying 700cc injectors at base (38psi) + 20 odd PSI boost. there are a few GTRs around in sydney running exactly that (well over 300rwkw, 700cc, nismo pump, 20psi +). it does cost more than a Bosch pump though. but imo, well worth it.

Topaz:

I did mine with half a tank without any real problem, but if you can do it with a near empy tank it would be nicer.

just unplug the wires on the top of the fuel guage assembly then turn the car over for a little bit. that sould relieve nearly all the pressure. then away you go. (i do reccomend having an old towel handy though as fuel will slowly run out for a couple of seconds). It's very easy to fit. read saliya's guide. it will help you. just disregard the bits about cutting up the cradle, or pick-up etc.

The only tools you'll need for the nismo pump are:

10mm spanner (to remove battery wires, and the bolts holding on the inspection cover)

big flat balde screw driver (to help ease off the fuel lines)

some pliers (to remove the sprin type hose clamps)

you may need a no 1 phillips head screw driver too, as one of my hoses had a different clamp (efi clamp with screw). and you may need something to undo with bit round locking ring (i undid mine by hand though).

[Leadfoot]

Just a warning but I hope everyone here who has done this conversion should check the EFI hose after 3 months because thats about how long mine lasted.

I have tried several types of EFI hose and none are compatable with "full immersion".

EFI hose has an inner buytl rubber for fuel resistance and an outer PVC hose for strength. The outer PVC hose fails very quickly once fully immersed. Once this fails the inner hose bursts under pressure.

My first hose lasted around 6 months and nearly left me stranded. Luckily it failed just around the corner from home. The car wouldnt start once I stopped the engine. The outcome could have been a lot worse.

I did a lot of ringing around and apparently the only truly compatable hoses are the factory made ones. It must be of butyl/butly construction I suspect which is really rare. Hose suppliers do not carry this sort of hose so it would be best to reuse the existing hose if you can. The second hose I tried was already looking sad after the first week.

Their may be rubber hoses that are compatable but no supplier could guarentee there hose was going to last forever. I eventually solved the problem by going to a braided teflon hose from hosemasters (a mining and hydraulic supplies outlet).

Teflon is a bit difficult as it does not bend easily and doesn't seal as well as rubber.

I used barbed end connectors and double hose clamps and tested it in a bucket before installing and there wasnt the slightest leak so I know it works.

If anyone has had other experience than this then I gladly stand to be corrected, however 2 out of 2 failures with EFI hose says I should warn others just in case.

[Topaz]

Done and done, Nismo pump in , was fairly simple. The only thing I found a bit misleading about the tutorial is that the clip at the back of the cradle releases THE PUMP & CASING ONLY and not the cradle (you have the entire thing out in the pics above). I was trying to push the whole thing forward that inch and finally figured out it was only fuel pump case that moved. The cradle and 1 of the rubber tubes stays connected to the tank itself.

I got a little bit of splash back with 1/4 tank of fuel.

I replaced the FPR with a Nismo upgrade at the same time and added some Nismo stickers too. So that should give me an extra 15hp at least .

[Beer Baron]

ahh, well I removed the whole cradle. you push it towards the centre of the car and the whole thing comes out as one (just barely fits out of the hole).

[GTR-26R]

one tip be careful how tight you do up the hose clamp mounting the pump to the bracket as i had an issue with my pump stopping after about 30 min and that was all i could do to fix it. sounds crazy but it happened in the middle of a main road the car just stops!!!! f..k

i also used a ford strainer instead of modifying the standard strainer it has a bigger inlet. cost $15 to $20

oh and about the fuel hose issue the best rubber hose to use in genuine nissan in tank hose which is special order from japan and available for a price of........wait for it.....just over $100 per meter, so i went for the teflon lined stainless steel braided hose at $50 per meter.

Bosch 044 flow rates 3.3 lpm @75psi

Current draw 15.5 amps

[GeeTR]

Just took some pics of the pump cradle that needs trimming, add em to your guide if you'd like

[godzl1975]

had my pump done at a tuning reputable co and the EFi hose that they used was so crap after only couple weeks it split..lucky enough i was just reversing down my driveway, when the car stopped...called NRMA out and they couldnt figure it out!..lucky my mate (Mech) came out n found was the hose that split. Hope they have changed suppliers!

anyways the EFi hose from Pirtek works well.

[Flash89]

can this apply to GTS-ts??

[GeeTR]

...anyways the EFi hose from Pirtek works well.

Hey man,

What type of EFI hose from Pirtek?

Many of mates and I have spent countless hours thinking of solutions. From speedflow/earls Teflon braid (with the braid removed) clamped onto the hose end. Using hard line and race fittings. Doing a little group buy from Nissan JPN @ $100/meter,etc

Cheers!

[smok74]

I think it would be a lot easier just to use the factory pump to supply a surge tank and use the 044 to feed fuel pressure to the injectors..... no blood, no bullsh*t, just have to get a approproate shaped surge tank to fit under the car so its all legal and defect-free.