Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

space savers are meant to be used on the front of the vehicle so if ya get a rear flat u put a wheel off front on to where the flat was and space save goes onto front it will screw ya diff up unless it is the same rolling diameter as our normal wheel that is why it is recommended for space savers to go on front

this my dear friends is why you buy a thirty-one

boot is big. can fit 1 or 2 rims easily!!

and, the boot space in the aussie sedan is the same as the hr31 japanese coupe

yet another reason why 31s are superior!!

Edited by 88silhouette

i just read the ariticle, and it isnt the tyres fault. its the d!ck head driving the car. How stoopid do you have to be to drive real fast with a space saver on?

on another note, i wonder how a gtr would go with 4 space savers? itd be like driving on ice!

steve

If you cant understand the concept of using the space saver as a limp home only under 80km/h device then perhaps you need to hand over your keys and take the bus from now on. I dont care how many RWKW your full sic skyline has you can drive it slowly to get it home with a space saver on without problems.

The guy who killed himself and another person while using a space saver is not a reason to stop using space savers for the other 99.999999% of drivers who understand what they are for.

im not saying that i would drive carelessly with or without the space saver. if your putting a space saver on the back with 17 - 18 - 20" rims then your driving a crash prone car. put it on the front wheel and transfer the front to the back. i said what i did because i just dont trust the space saver. i dont speed or drive recklessly even with proper, normal wheels on. its just driving on a space saver just isnt my thing. luckily my parents drive a tarago and will have a spare tyre for me in it at all times. im sure you'll agree that the space saver is designed just wat its good for. but its alot safer to get a someone to bring your tyres and be 100% sure that you are sitting on proper tyres.

space savers are meant to be used on the front of the vehicle so if ya get a rear flat u put a wheel off front on to where the flat was and space save goes onto front it will screw ya diff up unless it is the same rolling diameter as our normal wheel that is why it is recommended for space savers to go on front

ummmmmm, nooooo

what would happen if you had to do an emergency brake at 60kph and you had a pizzacutter wheel at the front?

spacers are safer at the back. the diameter should be the saem saze as the other wheel so it wont damage your diff.

Also, you shouldnt be taking off quick anyways.

and, its easier to controll a car if one of the rear wheels blow rather than one of the fronts.

So space savers should always go at the back.

dont see the fuss with a space saver. if you cannot go easy with your ride for a few kays till you get home then i think you need to asses your driving attitude. (this isnt directed at any one person)

I was down at Wakefield last year, and some hero brought out his R33 GT-R on 20" rims (looked like the Tempe Tyres old promo car, actually). Long story short, he slid off the road and shredded 2 of his tyres.

Wakefield isn't "a few kays" from anywhere useful, and definitely not from where the owner was from. And good luck finding tyres for 20" rims in Goulburn.

He ended up borrowing / buying 2 space savers to limp back to Sydney.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...