Rb 25 Neo Turbo, Is It Worth It?

[Rb25Freak]

Hey guys, just got a my new skyline with rb20det

Its already got 3" exhuast and thats about it so fare, im looking at upgrading the turbo to a stock R33.

what would be the benefits of spending that little bit extra for a neo R33 turbo over the series 1 or 2 R33?

and what psi would my engine / turbo handle with stock rb20 and stock side mount cooler?

all that ill be doing is dump pipe and 3" high flow cat.

[illusiVe]

just go aftermarket from the begining...

[RANDY]

Well if money is an object, as it frequently is, the series 2 turbo has a nylon impeller wheel which helps spool the turbo quicker than a series1.

The R34 turbo is slightly larger in the housing apparently, and may be ball bearing.... although i've heard that the series 2 turbo's are ball bearing too.

[kaige]

what kind of boost will i get away with if im using stock rb20 with R33 turbo?

[Bluprint]

The nylon compressor wheel that Neo turbos use is reputed to not last very long at all with much more than stock boost.

I think the popular limit is 10psi... I don't plan on turning mine up at all

[paulr33]

the boost doesnt kill the exhaust wheel, excess shaft speed (way too much boost) or excess heat (too much boost or bad tune) will fry the exhaust wheel

its not like 10.1psi will cause it to fail and 9.89psi wont

[gtst93]

just get a KKr turbo

[Kennedy]

The R34 turbo is slightly larger in the housing apparently, and may be ball bearing.... although i've heard that the series 2 turbo's are ball bearing too.

I thought all the 33 turbo's were ball bearing?

[kaige]

So is the neo worth spending the extra money on but?

does it have a slightly bigger housing?

[inissane]

i guess ur comparing $300 r33 to $600 neo r34 in my opinion just get the r33 one or a full on aftermarket turbo

[Mitchee]

I know of a R34 Turbo that will be for sale very very soon.... will be looking at the $5-600 mark for it.

[shanef]

the neo turbo's have steel wheels, that's why u can run more boost through them

[RANDY]

Ah ok... so all R33's have ball bearing, series 1 is ceramic intake wheel, series 2 has nylon, R34GTT has bigger housing, ball bearing, and nylon intake wheel.

Pretty sure that's right!

As for how much boost you'll get, you'll get whatever your boost controller is set to! Stock boost those turbo's see is 7psi, but many people run them at 10 or 12 psi safely. Obviously the R34GTT with the bigger housing could take a bit more, but remember that your RB20 motor is not pushing as much exhaust gas as an RB25 motor does, so it will take a little longer to spool these turbos, so don't go too big on a stockish setup.

[Syphon]

Heh your getting a little confused.

Don't confuse compressor wheels with turbine wheels.

I am certainly no expert but I can confirm that atleast on the compressor side of things (intake), the 33 turbos are all steel wheels. The reason the 33 turbos can only run a limited amount of boost is the TURBINE wheel, which is ceramic and tends to let go at anything over 12psi. One busted turbo which usually fills your cat convertor with tiny bits of what used to be your turbine wheel lol.

Now, the 34 turbo, I have not read up on the turbine side (ceramic or steel). The point Bluprint is making is that the 34 turbo has a nylon COMPRESSOR wheel. Tends to not like seeing more than 10psi. If it lets go, your poor motor drinks plastic which I am sure it won't be all that happy about, neither will your wallet when your getting the turbo rebuilt

Anyways to get strictly back on topic, whats your budget, how much power are you chasing, are you cashed up enough to go something aftermarket and mod a few things such as oil lines etc, or you want a straight bolt on affair.

Most people seem to do quite well and be happy with the 33 turbo on the 20. If your chasing over 200rwkw, either go aftermarket turbo, or highflow the 33 one. I think 170-200rwkw is the rough range for a standard 33 turbo. Anyone feel free to add more information or correct me where I may have gone wrong. I am still learning like alot of us

[Abo Bob]

Far out! If anyone is wanting to know the answers to the questions posed in this thread you would do well to ignore all of the above posts. Please don't take offence people above me.

There are a few correct facts but no one has it all right yet.

All the skyline turbos (r33 and R34) are ball bearing.

They all have ceramic exhaust wheels (except some super rare R34 ones that you and I are unlikely to ever see). This means that increasing the boost too much will delaminate the wheel and spit it into the cat. I did it at 12psi on the track. There is some argument about this but generally 12psi on the street and 10psi on the track is safe on an RB25.

That said, it appears that when you put them on RB20's they can safely take more boost. I've heard of people happily running 1 bar for long periods of time. I guess that the heat involved in getting that much boost into an RB20 isn't as much as that involved in an RB25.

Series one R33 turbos have steel compressor wheels. Series two R33 and R34 turbos have nylon. The nylon helps the turbo to spool up faster due to a lower mass but I've never heard of one melting because the exhaust wheels always let go first.

The R34 turbo does have a bigger exhaust housing which will make it more laggy than an R33 turbo on your RB20 but I would say that the weak exhaust wheel doesn't let you take advantage of the extra exhaust flow so if I owned an Rb20 I'd put an R33 turbo on it.

I think that's everything.

[kaige]

Will the R33 turbo bolt straight on?

Including the water and oil lines?

My rb20 is running 9 psi, so if i put my acuator on the R33 turbo will i still get the 9 psi?

[TTT]

Will the R33 turbo bolt straight on?

Including the water and oil lines?

My rb20 is running 9 psi, so if i put my acuator on the R33 turbo will i still get the 9 psi?

YES and YES.

Some of the 89 RB20's have water line differences.

when you buy a turbo from an R33, try to get the ELBOW pipe (the first part of the intercooler pipe that bolts on to the turbo) with it as it is slightly bigger and the holes on the rb20 turbo elbow pipe are slightly offset to the rb25 trubo and will need to be drilled out if you don't have the rb25 turbo elbow pipe.

now.

to all of the above info (some of which should be deleted by a mod to prevent stupidity rising)..

Add to it this bit of info.

Compressor wheels = impeller, Intake wheel, inlet wheel, front wheel and any other word that describes the blades of the turbo on the front.

Exhaust wheel = outlet, back wheel, or what ever you want to call the turbo's wheel at the back of the turbo where the exhaust bolts up to it.

R32 RB20 turbo is ball bearing, steel (or some sort of metal) compressor, ceramic exhaust wheel.

R33 sI rb25 turbo is ball bearing, steel (or some sort of metal) compressor, ceramic exhaust wheel (flows 25% more than stock rb20 turbo at same boost)

R33 sII rb25 turbo is ball bearing, plastic (or some sort of nylon compound) compressor, ceramic exhaust wheel.

r34 GTT rb25 turbo is ball bearing, plastic (or some sort of nylon compound) compressor, ceramic exhaust wheel and is slightly bigger exhaust housing

they all bolt on to RB20's (keeping in mind the 89 model rule and the elbow pipe)

if I were you, I'd look for a R33 sI turbo... pay about $300-$350 and bolt it on using your rb20's actuator.

actually, I will do just this in the near future, but I will run it at 14 psi.

[DFAULT]

so your saying the s1 turbo is better then the s2 turbo

[someonestolecc]

so your saying the s1 turbo is better then the s2 turbo

Yes. He's saying the sI is better.

(edit: I meant sI)

[kaige]

Ive got the r31 2 door with red top, so ill need that R33 pipe hey?