Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Breather Setup

Hella Flush
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
Posted

ok shake down time for my car tonight... popped cooler pipe but fixed that... then noticed oil everywhere...

the current breather setup:

inlet manifold to breather tap

breather tap to turbo side breather tap

breather tap to catchcan

catchcan to atmo

problem with this so it seems is its pressurising the system and pushing oil to the top of the motor which in turn started forcing oil out of my rocker cover seal thus going everywhere

now our solution is to do it how it is stock... but adding the catchcan in...

current setup stays how it is but the exit from the catchcan going to atmo atm - weld a knoblet on my metal afm/turbo pipe and plumb it back in... so the air is being circulated only problem with that is dodgy afm readings then...

any got any other ideas? pics of your setup maybe?

muchly appreciated,

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111613-rb20-breather-setup/
Share on other sites
dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Mine just has two pipes off the things on the cam cover things to the catch can, and then we blocked off the orginal pipes. I then unblocked the orginal pipes as it made a mess of the engine bay with all the vapours going about. That and if its not done correctly it does bugger all anyway.

nizmo_freek Experienced

nizmo_freek

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is how i done mine,just have the lines coming off the breathers to a catch can, remove the PCV valve (the little valve thats on the intake manifold which the drivers side breather goes into) and insert a short bolt with the exact same size thread (make sure its tight, but dont over tighten, you could even put some thread tape on the thread if you feel the need to), now block off the pipe on the passengers side that goes to the intake pipe (i just used a rubber bung to basically cap the end of the pipe, make sure it dosent leak air, the proper way would be to remove the whole pipe and block off the hole in the intake pipe between the turbo and AFM) works a treat and have never had a problem with it!Pretty simple really

Heres a pic

Picture138.jpg

Picture120.jpg

Edited by nizmo_freek
Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

huddy that is how i had mine... and the exit from catchcan was venting to atmo... question is - was james' too?

anyways weve taken the catchcan out of the equasion and gone stock breather set plumbed back into inlet pipe... see how that goes...

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
Posted

funny thing i have never seen 1 drop of oil in my catch can... so my thoughts was through pipe to top of catch can and sucked straight back up through pipe to intake :S

BUT not 100% on this... and not sure on james V's... only got the pic and cant really tell where that other hose is going :S but cant be too far... must be atmo...

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

see the catchcan is sposed to take anything in the ventilation out and drops to the bottom of the catchcan and the air goes out the exit... oil generally shouldnt be picked back up (density and stickyness shouldnt allow it unlike say water for instance)

maybe you have no blow-by hudds?

  • 2 weeks later...
QUIKBLADE Collaborator

QUIKBLADE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Having taken this idea from someone else, when I searched for the same thing some time ago... here is my set up... the hoses that came with it (ones you see) cannot handle the heat under the engine bay.. will change to silicon or similar when I have the inclination. ;) My setup was recommended by SydneyKid, basically it keeps all the pressure of the system like STANDARD, without blocking off pipes... Sound like what you're after... it's a good design, all be it a tad crowded.... but looks "hardcore jap tuner style" IMO :)

ALSO, location of catch can is subject to change... only place mine would fit to some pre drilled holes.

P.S. blue Silicon hose now has taken the place of a lot of those hoses... :) forgive me for the dirty engine bay...

post-19602-1144914873.jpg

Edited by QUIKBLADE
  • 4 weeks later...
sidewazegtst Collaborator

sidewazegtst

Posted
Posted

Hey guys what's up.

I just had a quick question with regards to catch can setup's.

Well I finally got mine and I want to install it however I'm a little confused on which way to do it. It's like there's two ways of doing it,

1) the way nizmo freek did it by blocking it off at the intake plenum and intake side of the turbo (this is how I'd like to do mine in order to get rid of all the stock crap attached to the turbo side where the maf is)

2) the way QUIKBLADE posted his set up.

So my question is, which way is proper as I've heard it's not good to pressurize the vavle covers? If both hoses run to the catch can, thats what would happen am I correct?

Now I have a 1990 GTS and this is what I considered doing. I was going to block one end of the of the breather on the turbo side. Keep both breathers attached by one hose (across the coilpack cover) and then having both breathers on one hose to the catch can. Then have one hose go from the catch can to the intake plenum on the motor. My thinking for this is that all vapours/oil go from the motor into the catch can and "hopefully" cleaner air with less moisture will go back to the motor. The system is still under normal pressure as it's attached to the engine, right or wrong?

I am probabley making more of this then needs be however, I just don't want to screw anything up.

So any clerification here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

  • 2 weeks later...
QUIKBLADE Collaborator

QUIKBLADE

Posted
Posted
So my question is, which way is proper as I've heard it's not good to pressurize the vavle covers? If both hoses run to the catch can, thats what would happen am I correct?

My way is apparently the correct way of hooking up a Catch can setup... basically to not pressurise the system... Although I can still see a stack of oil in the return pipes... ;) Go Figure...

Now I have a 1990 GTS and this is what I considered doing. I was going to block one end of the of the breather on the turbo side. Keep both breathers attached by one hose (across the coilpack cover) and then having both breathers on one hose to the catch can. Then have one hose go from the catch can to the intake plenum on the motor. My thinking for this is that all vapours/oil go from the motor into the catch can and "hopefully" cleaner air with less moisture will go back to the motor. The system is still under normal pressure as it's attached to the engine, right or wrong?

I am probabley making more of this then needs be however, I just don't want to screw anything up.

So any clerification here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

I take it you have a GTS-t as oppose to a GTS which you stated...?... :cheers:

Yeah I had to draw a diagram for myself... but I don't see why that wouldn't work... Basically you have turbo cam breather inlet blocked... and both cam breather "outlets" T'd into 1 hose which will then go to the catch can... then on the other side of the catch can comes a hose to the plenum... yeah sounds, like a solid idea. :cheers: Sorry for a late reply.

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

i have both cam covers running into a catch can of 1.5L capacity, the return pipe to both the turbo intake and the intake plenum have been blocked off.

i manage to fill the cartch can at a drift prac or comp event, with about 1 l of oil from a whole days thrashing on the limiter.. is this normal or do i have excessive blowby.

I am well aware that RB series engines produce a lot of oil movement in the head at high rpm, some of which will find its way through the breathers.. so is mine normal or excessive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • SeanR32GtSt
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Desean Strickland
      Need help/advice with bearing taper clearance, eccentricity and arp studs.

      By Desean Strickland · Posted

      Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • soviet_merlin
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...