Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

A friend of mine that works at ford can get me some front and rear brembo calipers, pads and discs from the BA series for a fairly decent price.

I would be looking to install them on my r33gts-t

What would be involved in fitting these if they fit at all?.

.......also a rough estimate on what someone would charge to fit them?

Can the discs be used ??

im fairly new to brake upgrade's so any info would be great....cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111717-ford-brembos-on-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

rotors are 355mm x 32mm cross drilled and slotted front rotors with Brembo 4 piston calipers ( 328mm x 26mm cross drilled rear rotors with red single piston caliprers, id think only the fronts on the 33 would need top be upgraded).

dont know the spacing of the calipers.... any 1 know their fords well?

look like radial mount calipers for the front.

will have to get an L shaped bracket made up (similar to the brackets in the AP kit below)

apgtrbrakekit.jpg

Add a 2 piece rotor (because the offset of the stock ford rotor will probably not fit on the GTSt) + custom hat...

it's not the cheapest upgrade.

something like the big rotor upgrades on UAS might be more economical... depends what you're after.

by what i can see on the DBA website, the stock Ford rotor is offset is similar to Nissan, but you can't be sure until you try it.

The beauty of custom brackets is that you can space the caliper 'offset' as you like to fit the rotors...

look like radial mount calipers for the front.

will have to get an L shaped bracket made up (similar to the brackets in the AP kit below)

apgtrbrakekit.jpg

Add a 2 piece rotor (because the offset of the stock ford rotor will probably not fit on the GTSt) + custom hat...

it's not the cheapest upgrade.

something like the big rotor upgrades on UAS might be more economical... depends what you're after.

by what i can see on the DBA website, the stock Ford rotor is offset is similar to Nissan, but you can't be sure until you try it.

The beauty of custom brackets is that you can space the caliper 'offset' as you like to fit the rotors...

i looked into this once. calipers can be made to fit if, as Ronin said, you get the right brackets made. brembo will not sell you the bracket alone (bugger!). there is not much difference in offset apparently between the skyline disc (GTR anyway) and the falcoon one. but you'll need to make sure the hub locator is the same diameter and the stud pattern is redrilled because i don't think it's the same. and for the improvement in braking you're likely to experience unless you're going on the track, it's a lot of stuffing around. and that's before you even consider the rears and the changes to the handbrake assembly etc.

that's why the brembo upgrade is easiest/popular. unless of course you are Ronin and have APs :D . they are nothing but trouble :rolleyes: - you need to sell them to me :(

i think there are better upgrades you can do the braking system before chaning rotors and calipers. you wont be maxing out the stock calipers and rotors thats for sure. things like braided lines, slotted rotors, good fluid, good pads and even just a brake system service would make it heaps better.

i dont see a need to change em?

The handbrake set up in the rear is different and the brembo rear calipers should be a 4 piston caliperIf it is on anFPV or GTP as far as i know there wasn't/isn't a single piston rear brembo kit on them.Can you tell us all what is a good price or pm me with it as i may beinterested for a mates ba.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. I believe the fear of annealing the alloy and weakening it, Every online discussion has someone saying it's bad and potentially a risk when powder coating forged wheels.  
    • I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure.  Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+.   That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.
    • Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.   Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches. Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.   Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.
    • Anyone know if it's a problem to powder coat forged alloy wheel centers (Rays/Volk GT-C). some say it's bad and can damage the alloy, some say it's not a problem.
    • Hey guys, I'm reviving an old post but I'm finally getting around to working on this now. I removed the battery to get a better look at the wires and i traced the wires from the headlight to the fuse box in the engine bay, but the wiring looks fine? The wiring for the R/H headlight is 3 wires and then is bundled up with the large diameter wire that goes underneath the fuse box. I didn't take it apart yet. I know you said that its a short circuit somewhere between the fuse box and the headlight. But could it be the headlight switch on the dash? Also, i pulled out my multi-meter and set it on the Ohms, but i'm not sure where to put the negative probe and the positive probe.     
×
×
  • Create New...